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I watched a video on turbo install on youtube, he didnt remove the downpipe? You unbolt it obviously at the turbo but you don't have to actually remove it from the hangers underneath and stuff do you?
You can get them out on 13-14 trucks with the DP's in place. I like to kick them back once unbolted for more clearance. It just makes it easy, especially with the FR DP's.

If you follow the CRP instructions they tell you too. You gotta drop the trans cross memeber and remove the trans mount from the transmission to get the crossover pipe free. If you didnt have to do this and didnt have to unplug the O2 sensors it would save you a **** load of time
Even to get the manifolds out, you don't have to drop them. I'm sure the instructions say it, because Ford says too.

I have pulled the driver's side turbo without taking the downpipe off the hangers. The challenge is there is a 4th mounting bolt for the turbo "behind" the turbo. It's not just hanging there on the exhaust manifold by the 3 bolts you can easily see. This 4th bolt is attached to a bracket which is furthermore attached to the head. From what I recall, the service manual has you snug the turbo to the bracket, then the bracket to the head. In that order. I assume this makes sure there is no binding or stress at the turbo mounting point. Problem is, it's difficult to torque that bracket down to the head with the exhaust pipe in place. It seemed like some of the steps in the manual were backwards or out of place, because I could not get at some of the bracket bolts by torquing the turbo to it first.

Try it first without taking it off the hangers. It will save a few hours easily. You could always bite the bullet and lower it if it's in your way.
What Mass-Hole says. it's easier with the newer 12th gens.

I saw reference to these 4th bolts in the CRP installation guide, but I think they may have gone away in 2013. Mine certainly did not have them so I suspect any trucks with the 13'+ turbos don't.

As far as the turbos go, I was able to pull both out the top anyways. The passenger side is tight and I actually pulled it out after I removed the stock manifold, and then put it back in resting down on the side of the transmission before putting the CRP mani's in. So the turbo was just sitting down below the manifold while I was torquing the nuts on the mani.
Good job, fun isn't it!?!

Lucky dog. Figures the year truck I bought has the most difficult to assemble setup!

Mine was slightly bent from the prior owner hitting something, so the bolt holes were misaligned. Took a 30" breaker bar, 10 lb sledge, a crowbar and lots of sweat to get the bolts out. I thought for sure I was going to snap a bolt. Not fun at all.
I hate dropping that cross member, what a PITA!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I am reiterating my hatred for the jiffy tite connectors. I put 4 new ones on the turbos and the last m-f’n coolant line wont clip in. Gets about 3/4 the way in so the lip is level with the top of the fitting and just stops.
 

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I hate to ask, but did you lube the hole before you attempted to stick it in?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I hate to ask, but did you lube the hole before you attempted to stick it in?
Lulz.

I actually did. The new fittings looked like they had grease in them already, but i put some silicone oring grease on the end of the tube too.
 

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Did ya get it? I had one tube that wasn’t quite square with the fitting and I had to “adjust” the tube to get it to click.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Did ya get it? I had one tube that wasn’t quite square with the fitting and I had to “adjust” the tube to get it to click.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Basically what i had to do.

Yes the truck is wrapped up. Took it for a test drive an everything seems cool.

I did a stant super stat and filled with a 40% coolant blend while i was at it to get some better cooling performance i hope.
 
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