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2015 Ford F-150 Lariat Screw 5.5' | 3.5 Eco | 4x4 3.55 Max Tow | 33's, Tuned by BoostKing
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@Blown F-150 I've been trying to find the post where I believe it was you who went into detail on why using ARP Stainless studs for the manifolds might be better.

Had some metallurgical rationale, I believe around how the studs might expand/contract more consistently with the head and/or manifold, perhaps?

If that was the line of thinking, do you think there would be benefit in upgrading to the stainless studs for installing cast steel manifolds?

(Makes sense perhaps if the manis are also stainless as in the new OEMs).
 

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2022 Powergrid KingRanch in Sparkle White
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I doubt he would put off replacing a leaky.... Anything. :)

I think he's one of those gents that couldn't sleep at night if anything was out of place or needing attention.
 

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Follow up: I actually found where CRP posted the following about using SS studs in a Cast manifold:

We have not tested these with our manifolds yet and I am concerned about thermal expansion with SS is higher and may lift clamping pressure when at temperature on the gasket vs a steel stud.
A higher torque may be needed to have success with these.
 

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@Blown F-150 I've been trying to find the post where I believe it was you who went into detail on why using ARP Stainless studs for the manifolds might be better.

Had some metallurgical rationale, I believe around how the studs might expand/contract more consistently with the head and/or manifold, perhaps?

If that was the line of thinking, do you think there would be benefit in upgrading to the stainless studs for installing cast steel manifolds?

(Makes sense perhaps if the manis are also stainless as in the new OEMs).
Actually, SS expands at a greater rate than regular steel. The SS studs are probably likely less than ideal on the original manifolds, the CRP's or the BD's. However, paired with the new SS OEM manifolds I think you have the ideal solution as the mainfold and stud would expand at the same rate and clamp force would remain the same.

I think the reason for using the SS studs is stength at high temps
 

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@Blown F-150 I've been trying to find the post where I believe it was you who went into detail on why using ARP Stainless studs for the manifolds might be better.

Had some metallurgical rationale, I believe around how the studs might expand/contract more consistently with the head and/or manifold, perhaps?

If that was the line of thinking, do you think there would be benefit in upgrading to the stainless studs for installing cast steel manifolds?

(Makes sense perhaps if the manis are also stainless as in the new OEMs).
I think Mass already covered it. However, I will note that with the 5.4 upgraded OEM manifolds and Studs, they do recommend to pair the OEM SS studs with the cast steel manifolds. I haven’t looked to see if they require a higher torque spec, but suspect they don’t. My old 2010 5.4 has the upgraded SS studs and steel manifolds with over 200k on the clock and no issues. However, I’m doubtful that they would get as hot as the eco manifolds.

FWIW, I did the OEM SS studs as they were literally 15% the cost of ARPs.


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Does anyone have a part number for the revised manifolds?
You’ll also want to get new water line fittings and I also recommend new water lines.

Exhaust Manifold - Passenger Side (RH)
BL3Z-9430-D

Manifold Assembly Exhaust
BL3Z-9431-D

Gasket - Passenger Side (RH)
BL3Z-9448-C

Gasket - Driver's Side (LH)
DK4Z-9448-A

Manifold Stud (Will show it's for a 5.4, but they are SS)
20 x W703902-S403

Manifold Nut
20 x W701706-S440

Turbocharger Bolt
6 x W715673-S900

Turbocharger Gasket
BL3Z-9450-B

Turbocharger Gasket - Driver's Side (LH)
BL3Z-9450-C

Catalytic Converter Nut - Ford
4 x W520514-S440


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If you think you may want to go back to this post one day - it's a great list of parts! - be sure to bookmark the post.
Non TapaTalk users - Simply click the little save icon in the lower left of the post.
TapaTalk Users - be sure to like the posting. I know of no way to bookmark or save a post via TapaTalk except to click the three dots in the top right of the screen, jump to WebView and click Save there.
 

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I am curious as well why they didn't leave this hole in since there will already be a stud there.
But, would there be a lip on the other side you could put a 'washer' on like they use on a straight 6 with intake/exhuast on the same side that would be useful?

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With only two studs in there with a centerline across the port, the clamping force is pushing evenly across the port. If that last stud were in there, it would potentially tip the clamping force towards it, which in turn would actually cause that long span to lift off the block and leak. I think it would be worse than the two stud scenario. I think what the Ford engineers concluded in the original design is the rearmost stud loses it's clamping force because the span is so large the metal warps or they get so hot that the rear stud snaps off. You can see in the original design that without that last stud, you don't have anything really keeping the port sealed. I am actually more optimistic about these after thinking through it a bit.
White Grey Red Bicycle part Electric blue

White Wood Grey Bicycle part Twig
 

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This is totally anecdotal, however I have now seen 3 different folks on Facebook state that they have warped the BD manifolds! You never know if it’s an install issue or not, but that’s not a good sign IMO.


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I will be having the new OEM ones installed on my engine when it goes in. I already asked they shop if they wanted me to buy them.
 

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Interested in how these new stainless manifolds hold up. I'm on originals still at 174k miles on the clock. But at this point if anything goes out I'm just debating doing what mass is currently doing...
 

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What is the part number for the SS studs from the 5.4L?

And are we 100% confirmed these are the P/N for the new manifolds:
BL3Z-9430-D- Right
BL3Z-9431-D- Left
 

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The ss studs i ordered are W703902*S403.
Those are the manifolds I ordered as well,, which I believe are to be the new ss ones. In fact, here's everything I ordered. Hopefully I got everything!

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
BL3Z*9430*D​
Exhaust Manifold​
$158.63​
1​
$158.63​
BL3Z-9448-C​
Gasket - Passenger Side (RH)​
$45.67​
1​
$45.67​
*W703902*S403​
Manifold Stud​
$2.30​
18​
$41.40​
*W701706*S440​
Manifold Nut​
$3.50​
18​
$63.00​
*W715673*S900​
Turbocharger Bolt​
$5.04​
6​
$30.24​
BL3Z*8K153*AB​
Tube Water Outlet​
$37.37​
2​
$74.74​
BL3Z*8A520*A​
Tube Assembly​
$15.15​
1​
$15.15​
BL3Z*6A968*C​
Connector - Oil Tube​
$8.00​
4​
$32.00​
BL3Z*6A968*JD​
Connector Oil Tube​
$13.98​
2​
$27.96​
BL3Z*6A968*B​
Connector Oil Tube​
$10.44​
2​
$20.88​
BL3Z*6N652*B​
Oil Pipe Gasket​
$4.38​
2​
$8.76​
DK4Z-9448-A​
Gasket - Driver's Side (LH)​
$21.67​
1​
$21.67​
BL3Z*9431*D​
Exhaust Manifold​
$156.38​
1​
$156.38​
CL3Z*9450*A​
Turbocharger Gasket​
$10.55​
1​
$10.55​
CL3Z-9450-B​
Turbocharger Gasket - Driver's Side (LH)​
$14.80​
1​
$14.80​
BL3Z*8A520*B​
Tube Assembly​
$15.15​
1​
$15.15​
BL3Z*8K153*BB​
Tube Water Outlet​
$33.61​
1​
$33.61​
 

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The ss studs i ordered are W703902*S403]
Those are the manifolds I ordered as well,, which I believe are to be the new ss ones. In fact, here's everything I ordered. Hopefully I got everything!
What year is this for? I need to do mine (2015) but don't want to touch it until I know I have all the parts.
 
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