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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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29 is close enough to 32. 35 at 29 is good.
 

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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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I adjust my LT's to 34 psi on the first morning below 32F. I start at 50 psi in April and usually end up around 60 psi before camping season is over. Those pressures are at above freezing tho.
 

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man I'm going to get ripped for this but here goes
for the last 20 years I've followed this method
I go by what's on the tire not the door
front 10psi over and the back 5psi over recommended on the tire, tires are rotated every oil change 5k miles
Example
Michelin LTX AT 2 285/55R20
recommended 80psi
90psi in the fronts and 85psi in the rears (on when cold)
 
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man I'm going to get ripped for this but here goes
for the last 20 years I've followed this method
I go by what's on the tire not the door
front 10psi over and the back 5psi over recommended on the tire, tires are rotated every oil change 5k miles
Example
Michelin LTX AT 2 285/55R20
recommended 80psi
90psi in the fronts and 85psi in the rears (on when cold)
That must be harsh when unloaded

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man I'm going to get ripped for this but here goes
for the last 20 years I've followed this method
I go by what's on the tire not the door
front 10psi over and the back 5psi over recommended on the tire, tires are rotated every oil change 5k miles
Example
Michelin LTX AT 2 285/55R20
recommended 80psi
90psi in the fronts and 85psi in the rears (on when cold)
Ummm... Uhhh... Yeahhh... I'm not even sure what to think about that one. Why have you chosen that method?
 

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man I'm going to get ripped for this but here goes
for the last 20 years I've followed this method
I go by what's on the tire not the door
front 10psi over and the back 5psi over recommended on the tire, tires are rotated every oil change 5k miles
Example
Michelin LTX AT 2 285/55R20
recommended 80psi
90psi in the fronts and 85psi in the rears (on when cold)
To each their own, however that rating on the tire is the max psi for the given MAX load rating of the tire. That tire may be good for a 3/4-1ton vehicle that requires the higher load rating. The recommendation on your door is way, way, way closer to what is needed. As mentioned, if you’re towing or hauling heavy, there may be reason to up your pressure and maintain a good contact patch on the road.

There is truly no purpose to running that much air unless your at the max load rating of the tire. Otherwise, it will cause pre-mature tire and suspension/steering component wear.


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That must be harsh when unloaded

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yes a little harsher but not as bad as you may think
 

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Ummm... Uhhh... Yeahhh... I'm not even sure what to think about that one. Why have you chosen that method?
#1 years ago I was told it helps for MPG's so started following the procedure, my wife had a 2001 Ford Explorer when we got rid of it she was averaging 16 city and we would easily get 24 on the HWY (hand calculated) it had 178k when we sold it, I bought a 2005 f-150 5.4 with 28k on her I remember driving it off the lot get 13.3 mpg when I sold it 7 years later 156k I was getting 16.4 city and would get 21.5 on HWY, now keep in mind I always do a few things when I get a new ride oil, muffler, tires psi, CAI, or just aftermarket air filter all of these things work well on older vehicles, the newer stuff I just change the oil (Amsoil) and blow up the tires, my wife has now had a 2012, 2017, 2021 Explorer and a 2020 Aviator and all of these have had an average of 20.5 city and we have always gotten around 24.5 or 25 mpg's 2 3.5 NA and 2 3.0 Eco's, my 2018 f-150 I bought from the Owner of the Dealership (4500 miles) same thing drove off the lot getting 14 mpg up until 50k miles when I upgraded all my mods in my sig. I was getting 20 mpg city and HWY would easily get 23 mpg, I took two trips to the outer banks 1st ended at 23.9 and the next year 24.1 mpg, then I upgraded it and the next two trips I got 20 mpg, #2 every time I get new tires my tire guys can't believe how good my tires wear (flat across), #3 I tow a lot and some pretty heavy loads
 

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To each their own, however that rating on the tire is the max psi for the given MAX load rating of the tire. That tire may be good for a 3/4-1ton vehicle that requires the higher load rating. The recommendation on your door is way, way, way closer to what is needed. As mentioned, if you’re towing or hauling heavy, there may be reason to up your pressure and maintain a good contact patch on the road.

There is truly no purpose to running that much air unless your at the max load rating of the tire. Otherwise, it will cause pre-mature tire and suspension/steering component wear.


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thank-you for the advice, I had a few people question it, as stated my tires wear really well and I had not had any suspension/steering issue on any of my vehicles (knock on wood)
 

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2021 Powerboost Platinum FX4 Kodiak Brown
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10,517 Posts
How many miles do you get out of a set of LTX AT's?
I get fantastic mileage out of them in the past, but I admit that I don't air them up like a balloon. :) (no offense intended)
When in doubt, I do the chalk test and make sure I have a nice even contact patch.
 

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I get fantastic mileage out of them in the past, but I admit that I don't air them up like a balloon. :) (no offense intended)
When in doubt, I do the chalk test and make sure I have a nice even contact patch.
Yeah, they wear well for me too. I was just thinking that at those pressures the centers must wear more quickly.
 

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To each their own, however that rating on the tire is the max psi for the given MAX load rating of the tire. That tire may be good for a 3/4-1ton vehicle that requires the higher load rating. The recommendation on your door is way, way, way closer to what is needed. As mentioned, if you’re towing or hauling heavy, there may be reason to up your pressure and maintain a good contact patch on the road.

There is truly no purpose to running that much air unless your at the max load rating of the tire. Otherwise, it will cause pre-mature tire and suspension/steering component wear.


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I apologize I thought of this last evening, at 10k the truck developed a vibration in the gas pedal and they ended up replacing the front diff. and at 70k the wheel bearing went, so not sure if it's related
 

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I apologize I thought of this last evening, at 10k the truck developed a vibration in the gas pedal and they ended up replacing the front diff. and at 70k the wheel bearing went, so not sure if it's related
Possibly linked, yes, but who really knows. My personal experience is a very harsh ride and the center wearing out of tires if they over-inflated. I can see that there would be a increase in MPG, but it would take a lot of gas saved to just offset the cost of one suspension component.

It also depends on where you live, but traction is also a important consideration. A over inflated tire has a smaller contact patch and can severely impact traction in rain and/or snow.
 

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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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I have 34 psi in my 275/70-18 E rated and they still ride rough.
 

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2021 Powerboost Platinum FX4 Kodiak Brown
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I have 34 psi in my 275/70-18 E rated and they still ride rough.
Are you on oem shocks? I only ask because those tires are awesome for towing, but they are substantially heavier than what the already underdamped oem shock can manage with decent composure. I always felt like the wheel/tire combo was just overwhelming the damper, so it wasn't really "damping", if you know what I mean. :)

The truck felt like the suspension wasn't the boss of the contact patch but rather the other way around. That drives me crazy. Lol

What others describe as firm, I always FELT as controlled and composed. I'm not so much looking for smooth, but instead each bump or irregularity being felt once with no aftereffect. No "reverb", if you will.
 

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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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Yes OEM 90000 mile shocks.
No 'reverb' but every little crack and pebble is felt.
 
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