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Bilstein 5100 lift issues

23K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  pawpaw  
#1 ·
Bought a '12 4x4 eco crew 6.5' with a full replacement front bumper/grill guard that weighs about 250lbs. Truck has Bilstein 5100's on the front set to the highest setting with most lift. IMO the truck rides rougher than a 1/2 ton should. I know the spring is preloaded due to the max perch setting and also due to having 250 lbs. more weight pushing the front end down, so I would imagine this is where the roughness is coming into play. I've been thinking about a practical solution to my dilema. I like the height of the frontend and want to keep the Bilsteins. I need some suggestions on how to soften the ride. Should I adjust the 5100's down to stock height and just buy the spacer for the top of the strut? Should I try to replace my coil spring with a softer coil? I could get rid of the replacement bumper, but I kinda like it on the truck. Any suggestions on the best way to accomplish my goal? Thanks
 
#2 ·
The maximum preload certainly might change the ride characteristics, rougher as compared to one of the lower settings. The spring rate won't change. However the preload may make the initial impact to the coil over setup stiffer. The other thing that has changed is the weight distribution, as you raise the front you transfer more suspended weight to the rear. Less weight on the front can change the ride characteristics. Less weight with the same shock and spring rate will likely translate into a perceived stiffer ride. What tires are being used OEM or other?
 
#3 ·
Sorry it took so long to comment on your response. *At the moment, it still has the factory Pirellis on it, but soon to go with 33' or 34". *The rear has not been lifted, but if I leave the front at this height, I will lift the rear to give more rake. *I think I can live with the stiffer ride it has now, but I know as time goes on, the interior might develop more rattles because of it. *I just wonder how much noticeable difference, if any, would there be in ride quality and height by lowering the perches one notch?
 
#4 ·
If you lowered the perch and added spacers, you will definatly notice a difference, aside from the degressive piston, you will be about as close to an OEM ride as you can get with 5100s. I say this because I've done it on my previous truck. Now the added wiegh is going to change handling regardless if you have OEM or after market suspension parts in play. but 250lbs is not enough to kill the ride. I've done almost that much when adding a winch and winch-plate which was about ~200lbs, and it still was good with 5100s at its lowest perch. but i also retained my rake with rear 3" blocks as well.

This is all subjective based on my experiece though, take it for what it is....
 
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#5 ·
Thanks BucNasti. That is good info. I think I'll put new tires on then decide if I want to do anything with the 5100's or leave as is. I still have my old truck and have been driving it mostly while getting the new one how I like it.
 
#6 ·
I like the stiffer ride. Front shouldn't be an issue with the added weight -- you probably just don't have enough in the rear. Ex: I have AALs in the rear with 5100's and it rides rough without 300# of traction sand.
 
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#7 ·
Yep there is no weight in the rear so you are probably right. I am going to buy a rear set of 5100's to match the fronts also. I need to raise the rear some also. Any suggestions? Thought I read where you can replace factory block with one off a Raptor. That true and how much extra lift with it?


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#9 ·
How much rake difference front to back from the factory on these? I figure if the Bilsteins lifted front 2-2.5 inches, a 2 inch rear block would be close to factory rake, right? Guess I could go with air bags also especially for towing occasionally.


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#10 ·
The rake is 2" from back to front factory (on 4x4 for sure).
 
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#11 ·
Just an update on my ride with the front Bilsteins. I have since taken off the stock 20" rims and wore out Pirellis and replaced with 1st generation Raptor 17" rims and 285/70/17 Hankook MT tires. IMO it looks much better with more sidewall and less rim. The truck does not ride as harsh, I assume because of more sidewall cushion even though theses are load range D tires. I knew the Pirellis were almost gone, but I never thought they would ride and handle as bad as they did. Before, it grabbed every uneven spot in the pavement and was not a pleasure to drive. Even with the full on mud grips, now it drives so much better. I have a set of ReadyLift 3" blocks for the back I hope to install this weekend and get it back to a good alignment shop to make sure everything is like it should be. When I get the rear blocks on, I'll try to post a pic of the truck. I am really pleased with the way these Raptor rims look on my white truck. They are the dark gray one's and not the newer black ones.
 
#13 ·
How much lift did the Bilstein's on the highest level get you? I'm looking to use them for a level, but want 2", everything I've read says on the top setting is 2.25, the next one down is 1.5". Thanks.
 
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#17 ·
How much lift did the Bilstein's on the highest level get you? I'm looking to use them for a level, but want 2", everything I've read says on the top setting is 2.25, the next one down is 1.5". Thanks.
There are different shocks/PN's for the 4x4 vs. the 4x2, but yes on the 4x4 shocks the top setting is supposed to give 2.25", and the next one down 1.5" but everything I've read said that this will vary, and often end up slightly higher than their specified lift. More discussion here: Bilstein 5100 4x4 Top Setting Questions - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
 
#14 ·
I'm not exactly sure since previous owner installed them. I can measure the fender well to the ground if it will help. I do remember that there was only a slight difference between back and front with no rear lift. I do have about a 250lb replacement front bumper that might make a difference. I think it measures now about 39" on front and like 39.5" on back but I'll check tonight.


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#15 ·
Forgot to measure last night. Front measures at from the ground to bottom edge of fender flare about 39.5" on front and 40" on back. If there was originally a 2" rake, I guess that means that on the top notch, my Bilsteins only raised the front 1.5" with the bumper/grill guard on it. The back factory block does have a spacer on top of it that looks like a leaf spring cut to the size of the block, but I'm thinking this is factory from some pics I have seen.
 
#16 ·
..... D P
F 41.0 40
R 40.8 41.5

Not on a perfectly level surface and 320Lbs in the bed. Top setting with AALs in the rear.
 
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#18 ·
I installed a set about 3 weeks ago, couldn't be happier and the ride is great. I got 2" of lift out of the top setting, which is what I wanted. Really didn't want to buy a taller block for the rear.
 
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#19 ·
Just picked mine up yesterday. I will definitely NOT be setting them on the highest setting as I think minimizing spring preload is a good thing. I bought them mainly because I’ve had regular heavy duty Bilsteins on two of my past Ford Rangers and liked the improvement in handling. The added bonus with the 5100’s this time is that I’ve always hated the stinkbug stance Ford insists on giving their trucks (Dode, Chevy, Toyota, etc. seem to do just fine without so much rake). A little rake is good, so, I’m debating between the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] and 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] setting up from the bottom. Hmmmmmm.

Image
 
#20 ·
I gambled with going on the highest setting, thinking i was going to get 2.25 and be nose high. I'm a 1/8 low in the front now so I'm pleased.

edited: I'd do one down from the top if you want a bit of rack. They ride very nice IMO, about the same as factory FX4 shocks with 50K on them.
 
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#21 ·
Yeah, I’ve read much of the same… On the 4x4 front shocks, 1 down from the top setting gives about a 0.5” of rake… Throw some morotcycles in the bed and you’re about leveled off.

I might still chose to go with the more subtle option and put it 1 up from the bottom which I hear gives ~1” of lift.
 
#22 ·
I've been thinking about going with the 5100's in the front on my truck...only looking to go up 1 to 1 1/2 inches and still have a little rake. My truck sits fairly level at stock height.
 
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#23 ·
I've been thinking about going with the 5100's in the front on my truck...
I would suggest doing them in the front and rear at the same time. True, the rears dont offer the height adjustable option (but they can accomodate a slight rear end lift if you decide to add a block) but performance-wise the truck will be better off with the firmer shocks that are in unison front to rear. Just my $0.02
 
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