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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After several days of rain I guess I sucked up enough water/ sludge from the intercooler to throw a rod or break a piston. New engine is on order from Ford, what else typically needs replaced when installing a new engine?

It only ran for about 45 seconds after the initial bang, just long enough for me to get off the road and then it locked up tight. Looked underneath and saw oil pouring out the block on the passenger side.

I went ahead and ordered new turbos too. I cut the oil filter open and it was slam packed with metal as to be expected, but I’m wondering what are the chances the turbos are damaged? It would sure be nice to not spend the money of if I don’t have to. The dealer said they could take them apart and inspect them and to hope for the best but prepare for the worst.

For anyone who’s interested it blew from me taking off normally from a stop sign, no more than 20% throttle. However, the stop sign is on a very steep hill and I’m thinking that the acculmated oil/water pooled to one side and sucked a lot in at once. I was running the stock intercooler at the time with a weep hole drilled. I noticed about a month ago I stopped seeing oil spots where I park at work so maybe the drain got clogged somehow? Who knows....

the dealer said they will clean out the intercooler. I went ahead and ordered a new upr mega catch can and they will install with the new motor. I was not running a catch can prior.

I’m wondering though.... does anything else need replaced.

Oil feed lines? Is the engine oil cooler part of the engine or a separate piece? I don’t want to risk having metal pass through a new engine. BTW this is the THIRD engine in under 100k miles
 

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I don't think it was your CAC I think it W's likely an already fatguied rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I guess anything is possible. Seems weird for it to let go under almost no boost and very little throttle.
 

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How many miles are on the truck and motor? Did you own the truck for the previous engines, and do you know how they failed? Did you order a complete crate assembly, long block, or ?? I removed my engine due to failure and I'm having a beefy one built at the moment.

I initially planned on finding a way to flush and clean the oil passageways on my existing turbos. But I wasn't comfortable re-installing turbos that might still have metal fragments onto a new engine.

I'm also going to clean out the intake manifold, throttle body, and intercooler since they get re-used and have an oily film and some gunk. Not sure about the oil lines(like turbo feed lines?) but I think a new long block comes with new cooler and filter housing.

I also still contemplate a new torque converter. I recall a member, sirkirinewton I believe, went through a few new warrantied long blocks in a row and I remember him questioning the TC or other suspects. If I understood correctly, I've heard the OEM TC might not be balanced very well and is very dependent on being mounted in the proper position. So as long as its aligned and reinstalled correctly you should be ok... I think.

Since I have down time and my vehicle has fairly high miles I'm also going to change other fluids and maybe goof with some ground wires/ connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How many miles are on the truck and motor? Did you own the truck for the previous engines, and do you know how they failed? Did you order a complete crate assembly, long block, or ?? I removed my engine due to failure and I'm having a beefy one built at the moment.

I initially planned on finding a way to flush and clean the oil passageways on my existing turbos. But I wasn't comfortable re-installing turbos that might still have metal fragments onto a new engine.

I'm also going to clean out the intake manifold, throttle body, and intercooler since they get re-used and have an oily film and some gunk. Not sure about the oil lines(like turbo feed lines?) but I think a new long block comes with new cooler and filter housing.

I also still contemplate a new torque converter. I recall a member, sirkirinewton I believe, went through a few new warrantied long blocks in a row and I remember him questioning the TC or other suspects. If I understood correctly, I've heard the OEM TC might not be balanced very well and is very dependent on being mounted in the proper position. So as long as its aligned and reinstalled correctly you should be ok... I think.

Since I have down time and my vehicle has fairly high miles I'm also going to change other fluids and maybe goof with some ground wires/ connections.

i bought the truck new back in 2/14. The first engine lasted just a few days, and about 250 miles. I heard what sounded like a low end knock and the dealer said rather than try to find out what was wrong, they would just install a new engine.

The truck just rolled 99k miles when this motor let go. I have METICULOUSLY maintained every fluid and filter in my truck since new. Truck always seen Mobil 1 0w40 and motorcraft filters every 4-5k. I bet the inside of the motor is spotless.

Truck has been been tuned since day 1. I bought a ford reman engine. Carries the same 3 year 100k warranty as new but is about 1200 less than a brand new engine. I’m pretty sure all the reman/ new engines have the updates phasers and primary timing chains in them by now. I believe they were fixed in 2016.

i have never heard anything about the torque converter. The transmission in the truck has truly been trouble free for me. Now I’m kinda worried.
 

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i have never heard anything about the torque converter. The transmission in the truck has truly been trouble free for me. Now I’m kinda worried.
Don't worry about it too much until somebody can confirm or deny my spewings
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Could possible be a fatigued rod and LSPI

After spending the last half hour reading about this, I think you may be right regarding the LSPI
 

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2019 f150 3.5 ecoboost crew cab 4x4 heavy tow package fx4 6.5' bed highly modified
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After several days of rain I guess I sucked up enough water/ sludge from the intercooler to throw a rod or break a piston. New engine is on order from Ford, what else typically needs replaced when installing a new engine?

It only ran for about 45 seconds after the initial bang, just long enough for me to get off the road and then it locked up tight. Looked underneath and saw oil pouring out the block on the passenger side.

I went ahead and ordered new turbos too. I cut the oil filter open and it was slam packed with metal as to be expected, but I’m wondering what are the chances the turbos are damaged? It would sure be nice to not spend the money of if I don’t have to. The dealer said they could take them apart and inspect them and to hope for the best but prepare for the worst.

For anyone who’s interested it blew from me taking off normally from a stop sign, no more than 20% throttle. However, the stop sign is on a very steep hill and I’m thinking that the acculmated oil/water pooled to one side and sucked a lot in at once. I was running the stock intercooler at the time with a weep hole drilled. I noticed about a month ago I stopped seeing oil spots where I park at work so maybe the drain got clogged somehow? Who knows....

the dealer said they will clean out the intercooler. I went ahead and ordered a new upr mega catch can and they will install with the new motor. I was not running a catch can prior.

I’m wondering though.... does anything else need replaced.

Oil feed lines? Is the engine oil cooler part of the engine or a separate piece? I don’t want to risk having metal pass through a new engine. BTW this is the THIRD engine in under 100k miles
Wow! Welcome the the 3 engine club! Not a club I recommend but...
My old 2013 3.5 had 3 long blocks replaced also before I finally got rid of it because the low end knock kept coming back after each replacement.

Crazy.

I honestly think replacing the turbos is a good idea, especially since you said the oil filter had so much metal in it.
Out of curiosity what year is your truck?

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Wow! Welcome the the 3 engine club! Not a club I recommend but...
My old 2013 3.5 had 3 long blocks replaced also before I finally got rid of it because the low end knock kept coming back after each replacement.

Crazy.

I honestly think replacing the turbos is a good idea, especially since you said the oil filter had so much metal in it.
Out of curiosity what year is your truck?

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Not sure if you can see his signature line, but here it is:

2013 F150 XL super cab 163" wb 3.5 v6

Mpt tuned, Airaid intake, Kooks green catted downpipe, Afe 4" Mach force catback,ATP intercooler, Afe charge pipe, 170° Resiche thermostat, stock Fx4 wheels with 35x11.50 terra grappler g2's, Rancho quick lift, Factory remote start added, Yukon 4.56's with Detroit trutrac, 40/15% tint, weather tech rain guards/ bug guard,Raptor grill lights, Afe +7 qt trans pan, BBK 73mm T-body
 
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2019 f150 3.5 ecoboost crew cab 4x4 heavy tow package fx4 6.5' bed highly modified
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Not sure if you can see his signature line, but here it is:

2013 F150 XL super cab 163" wb 3.5 v6

Mpt tuned, Airaid intake, Kooks green catted downpipe, Afe 4" Mach force catback,ATP intercooler, Afe charge pipe, 170° Resiche thermostat, stock Fx4 wheels with 35x11.50 terra grappler g2's, Rancho quick lift, Factory remote start added, Yukon 4.56's with Detroit trutrac, 40/15% tint, weather tech rain guards/ bug guard,Raptor grill lights, Afe +7 qt trans pan, BBK 73mm T-body
I couldn't thanks!

Holy crap! That's a lot of bolt ons and mods! Lol

Crazy, and yet ANOTHER 2013!

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hahaha yup another 2013! There was a sticker on it somewhere that showed what day it was exactly built on and sure enough it was on a Friday! Kinda weird though, being built in November of 13 I thought it would be sold as a 14, but nope... window sticker says 2013
 

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Sorry for your loss. You are very likely correct on your assumption. It seems that the intercooler system collects just enough at some point that a small short acceleration causes a quick suction of oil and hydrolocks the cylinder. Another crazy thing im thinking is some how the Pvc valve gets stuck momentarily and during a quick change of acceleration, a shot of oil comes thru that tube in to the intake and hydro locks it.

Get a catch can! all those mods and it probably would have saved your engine.

Good call on the turbos... but its possible that they are ok if those lines are past the filtered oil. but not sure.

If you are doing the swap yourself it is best to lift the CAB to get to the bolts on top of the transmission. there is no other way because the cab is too tight against the transmission.

since you are FX4, disconnect the transfer case shaft from the front side. this allows for easier access for your hands and tools.

Good Luck! and get a catch can... :) welcome to the blown engine club.
 

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DIY info on the CAB removal. this is the guy that saved me a lot of frustration.

I don't have a lift, so I just removed all the front cab bolts except the last ones near the bed and lifted the front. If you have a lift this video will save you a lot of frustration and the job will be much easier.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I’m not going to touch a thing, the ford dealer is going to do it. I don’t have the space anymore.

One thing I was wondering.... the dealer told me to return the pcm back to stock so they could flash it to the latest stock calibration. I don’t see the point of doing this since all it’s going to cause me to have to is get my tunes re written from MPT because the strategy code will change.

There is is zero chance I would even run a stock tune anyway

plus a stock tune won’t work anyway... my truck has 4.56 gears ( stock was 3.31) and 35 inch tires ( stock was like 31s)

i did try and flash it to stock once and i was driving like 15 mph and it said I was doing like 50 mph, so the stock tune isn’t even an option.

I think in going to tell them them not to flash it at all. There’s really no point unless I’m missing something.

It gets towed to the dealer tomorrow!

They will install the UPR mega catch can when they do the engine
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)

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Theory is that it's the pistons that let go and then the unbridled rod gets the blame for wreaking havoc.

Either way, same result though.

Hopefully you are as good as new. :)

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