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I have a 2013 EB and have just recently installed a Roush mechanical boost gauge with vent pod. After researching it looked like most people were connecting the vacuum/boost line to the line right behind the throttle body that comes off the intake manifold. I believe some previous models used to have a unused nipple in this area but mine does not so I had to T into the line below. After doing so all seemed well until I noticed a violent flutter under vacuum but it's not all the time. It comes and gos like a Solinoid is opening and closing. When it's not doing it... It's perfect. Am I in the wrong spot or am missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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You sure it ain't leaking?
Where's that line go?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here is a pic of where I tied in at the manifold. This is also where rcherry11 had posted and it looked like everyone decided to go with. But I did here its for the PCV valve and it's a no no.So...... user124103_pic68947_1364430540.jpg
 

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Here is a pic of where I tied in at the manifold. This is also where rcherry11 had posted and it looked like everyone decided to go with. But I did here its for the PCV valve and it's a no no.So...... View attachment 5211
That would make sense as to why it fluttered.
 

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I'm almost positive you will not get accurate readings from the PCV system.


I'm not sure if the 13's are different then the 12's but I tapped into the vacuum line at the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold right by the COP for the cylinder closest to the firewall on the passenger side before the check valve. I'll see if I can dig up a pic but it doesn't flutter
 

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I'm almost positive you will not get accurate readings from the PCV system.


I'm not sure if the 13's are different then the 12's but I tapped into the vacuum line at the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold right by the COP for the cylinder closest to the firewall on the passenger side before the check valve. I'll see if I can dig up a pic but it doesn't flutter
'13's are different.
 

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I have the roush boost gauge. Wont zero out. Should have spent the money on a quality autometer
Very rarely will your gauge zero out because it is either in Vacuum or Boost, its not the gauge. I have the roush also and have compared it simultaneously with Digital read boost through the torque app and also a handheld scanner reading boost through OBD and its spot on
 

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Very rarely will your gauge zero out because it is either in Vacuum or Boost, its not the gauge. I have the roush also and have compared it simultaneously with Digital read boost through the torque app and also a handheld scanner reading boost through OBD and its spot on
I agree, it's only solidly zero when the motor is off.
However, it should read pretty steady vacuum at idle and no accessories cycling on and off.
 

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At idle mine is about -23 inhg vacuum
 

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I'll have to see what mine says. It's hard to imagine that one engine idles at 23"hg and another at 11"hg.
it almost seems like one of you is reading in psia...
 

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Quick update.
My truck idles at 16.5“Hg and Coasts at 23"Hg.
 

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Very rarely will your gauge zero out because it is either in Vacuum or Boost, its not the gauge. I have the roush also and have compared it simultaneously with Digital read boost through the torque app and also a handheld scanner reading boost through OBD and its spot on
I guess I should have explained it better. Can't expect everyone to understand.

The gauge doesn't zero out when the engine is off. .

That is not normal.

That is the gauge screwed up.

I've probably owned more turbo/supercharged vehicles that most members here, combined. I know what I'm talking about.
I've tuned turbo/supercharged motors with bigstuff3 and fast, that's where you tune everything the engine, boost controller, timing does..... Everything

That's a few steps past plasi-diped wheels a afe.... anything
 

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I guess I should have explained it better. Can't expect everyone to understand.

The gauge doesn't zero out when the engine is off. .

That is not normal.

That is the gauge screwed up.

I've probably owned more turbo/supercharged vehicles that most members here, combined. I know what I'm talking about.
I've tuned turbo/supercharged motors with bigstuff3 and fast, that's where you tune everything the engine, boost controller, timing does..... Everything

That's a few steps past plasi-diped wheels a afe.... anything
Sand, meet Vag.
Vag, meet Sand.
 
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I guess I should have explained it better. Can't expect everyone to understand.

The gauge doesn't zero out when the engine is off. .

That is not normal.

That is the gauge screwed up.

I've probably owned more turbo/supercharged vehicles that most members here, combined. I know what I'm talking about.
I've tuned turbo/supercharged motors with bigstuff3 and fast, that's where you tune everything the engine, boost controller, timing does..... Everything

That's a few steps past plasi-diped wheels a afe.... anything
Wow your pretty impressive there buddy, with your vast knowledge and ownership of vehicles I guess you should not have to post inadequate questions on a truck forum.

I'm real butt hurt, not really...merry xmas douche
 

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I guess I should have explained it better. Can't expect everyone to understand.

The gauge doesn't zero out when the engine is off. .

That is not normal.

That is the gauge screwed up.

I've probably owned more turbo/supercharged vehicles that most members here, combined. I know what I'm talking about.
I've tuned turbo/supercharged motors with bigstuff3 and fast, that's where you tune everything the engine, boost controller, timing does..... Everything

That's a few steps past plasi-diped wheels a afe.... anything
Is yours a mechanical or electric gauge? If electric, does it zero with key on engine off? If mechanical, its messed up. Due to the 0 transition between vac and boost the mechanical movement is never quite right on since there's no resistance in the linkage there. That's why there's a little square box where 0 would normally be. Electrical w/stepper motor movements often zero only when power on to the gauge. They have no return spring mechanism to zero them out when shut down. Bet I answered a variation of that question a hundred or more times when I was a field tech rep for Auto Meter!
 

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I used to run a Roush boost gauge as well, it was never zeroed with the key off. And it read about 2-2.5 psi higher than any reading coming from the OBD port. Finally took it out and replaced with an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge.
 
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