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I am fairly new to the turbo scene. I have recently moved from the 5.4L 3v to a 3.5L ecoboost in my 2011 f150 fx4. A little background first. I got a banks ram air intake with not custom tunes. I first encountered the dreaded misfire issue which I solved with a new set of plugs and mega canclean side separator. All was good till it came back shortly after and the filter on the PCV had a crack in it. So I fixed that. Now I have another issue which is unrelated to the misfire. Idle is fine and even off idle is fine but when I give it full throttle from a roll it won't build boost. It fluctuates between 11 to 16 psi then stays steady at 11 psi after a couple of reps of fluctuations. Now normally it would build up to 17-18 psi and stay there thru the pull. What has me baffled is if I give it wot from a stop it does exactly what it is suppose to do. So I am thinking either both my BOV or waste gates are the culprit. If so how can I diagnose which it is?
 

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Is it able to build ~14 psi under WOT without the tune?

My experience with the '11-'12 Eco's is that the solenoid valves that control the recirculating valves (BOV's) will leak vacuum/pressure causing the BOV to not seat. Usually this is a low to part throttle issue since manifold pressure should be holding the valve shut under boost. Here's a link to a thread that I started regarding the issue.
http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/31-f150-ecoboost-problems/14494-turbocharger-bov-moaning-groaning-quacking-confirmed-fix.html

Now, how many miles do you have on that '11? The timing chains on the first year or so of production are prone to wearing and causing issues. It isn't a cheap fix no matter how you slice it. Also, there is an extended warranty bulletin out there to replace the brake booster vacuum pump should that begin to act up on you.
 

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Sometimes yes, it will build boost to 13 psi but proceed to fluctuate before eventually leveling out to 10psi. But sometimes no matter how much throttle I give it, it will not build boost over 11psi. The truck has roughly 75k miles on it. Is the vacuum pump tied into the turbo boost management?
 

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I am assuming if those solenoids are faulty and I replace my stock BOVs with turbosmart compact type then I will still be battling the same issue?
 

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I think I'm having the same issue. I'm thinking wastegate and solenoids. I have already changed to the bov's and still does it.
 

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Sometimes yes, it will build boost to 13 psi but proceed to fluctuate before eventually leveling out to 10psi. But sometimes no matter how much throttle I give it, it will not build boost over 11psi. The truck has roughly 75k miles on it. Is the vacuum pump tied into the turbo boost management?
The vacuum pump only supplies the brake booster. The BOVs are operated by engine vacuum with a ~6" spherical reservoir mounted on the passenger side firewall. A check valve between the intake manifold and the reservoir keeps it topped off. The wastegates are controlled by manifold pressure (IIRC), pressure opens them. There is a wastegate check procedure from FORD that I read online that says they should be full open at a certain pressure.

I would also try cleaning the two MAP sensors first since they are a known issue. There is one mounted on top of the intake manifold, and one in front of the throttle body. Both are held down by a single screw and sealed with an o-ring. The one in the intake manifold tends to get very dirty and can affect boost pressure readings which can cause boost control issues.

The BOV solenoids can be easily accessed through the wheel well after removing the front wheels. While you are in there, take the BOV's apart (three screws) and inspect the diaphragms for tears.
 

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Update. Changed my soleniods on both turbos. Took wheels off.. very easy at that point. I tried my best to ensure all lines were hooked up as well. Took it for a test drive and she ran strong. Didn't throw the 0246 wastegate high a code. The test will be my 800km road trip tomorrow. I'll see how it goes.
 

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One more tip, install tension bands on ALL vacuum lines. Ford engineers must have assumed that vacuum lines won't leak, but they will/do as the rubber hardens. This is unfortunately coming from an engineer who is routinely asked to find ways to reduce costs...
 

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Well got the wategate P0246 code again... also my hose popped off 3 times on the way home today. If I got on it hard I could hear the sucking sound shortly after. If I got on it just enough for the turbos to kick in it wouldn't do it. I had to stop 3 times in 240km to reach in and put the vac hose back on the Turbo smart BOV... drivers side only. I'll be getting a clamp or zip tie or something to fix this tomorrow. But I've put new wastegate soleniods on and the Turbosmart BOV's in.... I'm starting to think I need new wastegates.... This truck is starting to become a bit frustrating.
 

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Well got the wategate P0246 code again... also my hose popped off 3 times on the way home today. If I got on it hard I could hear the sucking sound shortly after. If I got on it just enough for the turbos to kick in it wouldn't do it. I had to stop 3 times in 240km to reach in and put the vac hose back on the Turbo smart BOV... drivers side only. I'll be getting a clamp or zip tie or something to fix this tomorrow. But I've put new wastegate soleniods on and the Turbosmart BOV's in.... I'm starting to think I need new wastegates.... This truck is starting to become a bit frustrating.
There is one more place to look that I can recommend, but it's not an obvious one. There is a vacuum line in the primary intake pipe right after the air cleaner on the back/underside. I'm not exactly sure what it does, but it will affect the operation of the WG and BOV's. Put a hose clamp on that one as well while you're under the hood.
 

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yeah didnt find anything out of the ordinary... I'm now very frustrated and angry with my truck.... tonight it pretty much sucked ass to drive. I guess I'll go to Ford and see what they can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well here is my update. I got me a new set of vacuum solenoids and new turbosmart BOV just because of the extra boost my tune pushes. I also cleaned the two MAP sensors (the one on top of intake was NASTY!). I haven't put band clamps on all vacuum lines yet but going to. I don't have the fluctuation like I had but from time to time it doesn't build adequate boost. I literally have to put the pedal to the floor and let it down shift to lower gear before it will think about boosting up to maximum boost. So I got curious today and hooked my sct up and ran it to check air/fuel ratio. What I found was when my system wouldn't build boost it was running down to almost 10.0. But when it acted like it suppose to it was in the neighborhood of ~13.9-14.3. So whatever is effecting my turbo system isn't necessarily effecting my fuel system.
 

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I know that our trucks run much richer than stoich, especially under boost, but I don't know where they should be running. It is interesting that it is a sporadic issue with not building boost.

Can you look into the knock counts or how much timing is being added/subtracted under boost? I'm wondering if the PCM is limiting boost because of some other variable.
 

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My local parts store didn't have clamps to out on the vacuum hoses so I tried something else just to see if it would work (gas mileage was horrible so why not). I used zip ties on the hoses except for two of them. I can notice a huge difference. The two connections I didn't have enough ties for were where the hoses connect from solenoid to BOV. I'm thinking once I do that it will be back to tip top shape. I will update after I do that. Hope this is helping someone with similar symptoms.
 

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My P0246 code was due to a bad wire... ford had it for 2 days and found and fixed it. As for the hose I put a zip tie around both at the BOV's and no issues since.
 

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My P0246 code was due to a bad wire... ford had it for 2 days and found and fixed it. As for the hose I put a zip tie around both at the BOV's and no issues since.
I have a 2012 F150 EB and feel I am suffering from the same symptom, sans the CEL/P0246. Truck won't build boost past 10psi WOT @ 2500 RPM and falls off from there.

This truck has always ran a bit funny and I've been chasing these issues since new. Dealership is worthless as there is no CEL.

It would help me if you provided details as to which wires / connectors were bad and if you have any diagnostic information as to how it was identified.
 

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Following this. I am having a similar issue but mine seems to be hit and miss. I am 99% I have a torn bov but sometimes it builds boost and can hear it leak a little and sometimes it builds boosts shifts gears and then loses all boost. Going to change bov's this weekend and see how it runs

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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I have the same issue. 2011. I am planning on checking the solenoids/check valves, checking BOV and then zip tying or clamping everything
 
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