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Hello everyone, I am a proud owner off 2011 Ecoboost Platnuim and I love it. I have had a couple of issues that I have not experienced on any other f150 I have owned and I have owned plenty. 2 of them I have cleared up but one I am still wondering about. Maybe you guys and gals can educate me.

I have heard the term shudder and wonder to what are folks referring to, or is it something like what I maybe experiencing now. Every time I apply the brake I get a shudder in the pedal and steering. I have had the local shop checkout my brakes and they say there is nothing wrong with them. I have 36k on my truck and I assume I am running the original pads and rotors.

Just looking for some thoughts form the experts. Thanks for your help.
 

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Shudder when braking is usually a sign of warped rotors. With out removing them and placing them on a brake machine for resurfacing it is tuff to see if they are slightly warped. Can also be a sign of loose or worn front end components.
Don
 

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Many warped rotors are caused by over tightening of the lug nuts. Use a torque wrench when installing the lug nuts and do NOT use any lubricant or anti-seize as this will increase the torque applied at a given setting.
 

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I recently began experiencing the same problem with my 12 FX4, with 26k miles. It's in the shop for that (turn the rotors, new pads??), and a few other minor things today..including driveshaft noise (u-joint??), and suspension noise (steering linkage or turn-stops clunking when pulling out of the driveway & turning sharp), hopefully they will have it wrapped up today!
 

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Let us know what the outcome is. I have the same suspension issue and think I'm hearing a drivetrain clunk, usually in traffic when the tranny is shifting. 9500 miles on my 2013 fx4
 

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So they ended up turning my rotors to eliminate the brake stuttering issue, greased the suspension to eliminate the suspension clunking noise (claim it was the steering stops??), and were not able to duplicate the drive shaft noise when shifting to reverse. At least it is on my vehicle shop records should it or a related problem occur later. I will admit the truck feels quieter and smoother since the service, oh and they changed the filter & oil, and rotated tires.

Running premium this tank and now up to 17 mpg !!
 

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There is a bulletin for the driveline noise, they remove the driveshaft and tighten the pinion, mine started at about 4k miles, the steering noise only happens on my truck when backing out of a driveway when the suspension compresses at the apron.

As for the shudder through the steering wheel, I've had it on all four of my e150's, after doing the "hustle" for any length of time, especially if I'm towing, the rotors grow or "swell" for the heat of braking, but since they are vaned, the metal is cooler at each vane, the expansion causes the playing card in the spokes effect, depending on how hot or how often you cause this heat cycling, it's go away once the rotors cool, but at some point it's here to stay because once the rotors are hot and everything is expanded, you are effectively taking material off of the high spots on the rotor when you brake, then when they're cool, the unvaned portions of the rotor are valleys instead of hills
brake how_to1.jpg

I've solved the problem by going to aftermarket rotors once the syndrome turns up, the material is better, so the problem is less prevalent, there are dimpled, slotted, drilled and a myriad of combinations between to choose from, some people don't like drilled because it's a place for cracking to start, but look at any Ferrari, Porsche, or other high end braking system, they're all drilled or slotted, to promote even cooling!

The rotors on the front of the truck are floating design so they basically fall off when you roll the caliper out of the way (yes, if you're going to replace the rotors, you have to remove the caliper bracket as well, but it's just two more bolts! I use brake performance warehouse, but there are a bunch of companies out there.

By the by, The stock rotors are only $30 or so from any of the parts places, so it doesn't make any sense to get the rotors machined unless you take the truck to the dealer and they do them under warranty (they do them on the vehicle, so no removal is required) but they're the same crap steel, so it's a never ending cycle once it starts. My dealer is only ten minutes from my house, but it takes longer to go there and get it taken care of than it does to swap rotors and pads in my driveway with a floorjack, hand tools and a five gallon bucket to sit on (I can do both front rotors with new pads in an hour and a half, and no, I'm not bragging, it's that easy)
 

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I know it's a little late now that you have had your rotors turned, but a easy way to tell if they are warped is to remove the wheel and place a dial indicator on the rotor. If you then spin the rotor and watch the dial indicator, you will be able to see what the naked eye can't see on its own.

Warped rotors are very common on all vehicles. And like said before it is caused by over tightening lug nuts, heat from towing or just sudden stops at high speeds and then holding the brake in that one place, trapping the heat on that one area.
 

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Greetings, I have had a similar problem when going on the highway. When I drive 50 and below...no brake shudder, but when I go on the highway above 60 for a few miles...brake shudder. I went to the dealer and they said I had warped rotors because of the pads sticking in the anti-rattle clips. So, to save a "brake service fee", I took the brake calipers off myself and cleaned with a small wire brush and apply anti-seize on the the slides where the pads are in the caliper brackets. Also I took the wire wheel on my grinder to the ends of the pads that go into the slides to clean off rust and material build up. No more problems. This must be done every 20,000 miles or twice a year for me. I do the backs and fronts when I do my tire rotation or when I put on or take off my winter tires. Each time they were starting to be sticky in the slides. I think the design promotes a build up of material that needs to be cleaned off the slides to allow the pads to release after a brake application.
 

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I was told by the dealer when I first picked my new truck up to avoid panic braking for the first 500 miles due to rotor warping.
The problem is as someone else mentioned very common because the manufacturers are trying to shave cost and weight.
To do this they are cutting back on thickness and quality of materials. GM had had a big problem with this for years, when I had a company car they lasted about 5K before needing replacement of re-surfacing. The more highway driving you do in a traffic area will add to this no matter what you do to your braking habits.
Aftermarket is the best way to go, I went with vented breaks on my super duty and it solved the problem, then to save money went back to standard after market and it returned.
 

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Affordable options -> http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=Ford&autoModel=F150+4wd&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=SuperCrew There are likely other good examples out there as well.

When I have the first opportunity to dive into the front brakes I plan on upgrading pads. Would look for a performance model pad (low dust) that would in concert be a good match to a heat treated rotor, possibly slotted. Drilled while it looks cool is likely overkill and possibly a determent in loss of rotor surface unless we moved to a larger diameter rotor with three piston caliper.

Any scientific data available of pad/rotor combinations that document stopping performance loaded and unloaded?
 

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Just got back from a weekend trip and noticed that my brakes are shuttering. My truck only has 10,000 miles on it so I will be making a trip to the service department. This is my first Ford, and I really like the vehicle ... but this will be my fourth time having warranty work done on it, and i haven't had it that long. Just had work on the transmission and now this. At least this gives me a chance to check out a new service department in the area :).
 

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They resurfaced the rotors and it fixed the problem ... but now 5,000 miles later its back. :-(

Is there a permanent fix to this issue from Ford? I only tow (3 or 4 times a month a 3,000 lb boat) .. so I don't understand why the brakes are shuddering.
 

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Resurfacing the rotors on these trucks is a bad idea. They are too thin and resurfacing just makes them thinner. This makes them even more susceptible to warpage.


Raiderfan ENDURES all
 

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Resurfacing the rotors on these trucks is a bad idea. They are too thin and resurfacing just makes them thinner. This makes them even more susceptible to warpage.


Raiderfan ENDURES all
I can't even think of a place I've seen in the past ten years that turns rotors anymore.
 

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I just took mine to shop Tuesday, 13' fx4, 20 k miles, warped rotors, they turned them and problem solved. I'm not sure how it happened, I don't recall getting them hot before
 

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I live in Louisiana and O'Reily's turns rotors. I had front turned and that fixed the front end shudder. Then I could feed the back ones shuddering. Had them turned and it still did it. Put on new shoes and it got worse. Talked to the dealer and my mechanic yesterday and they said probably need new rotors. I will use after market cause I think I will have the same problem with OEM. Should have them done is couple of days cause they have to order them. 99.00 at O'Reilys. I have about 47000 miles on my 2012 F150 Ecoboast.

I am sure Ford is aware of this as when it started the dealer told that "normally turn all 4 when they have a problem under 12000 miles(warranty). I really like my truck but if this is the kind of stuff to expect I may go to Toyota on Nissan for my next one if this keeps happening. Just hate to pay the price for one. [HR][/HR]
 
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