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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So... I was reading the Owner's Manual (need to pass the 5-6 week waiting period for my new FX4) and came across this statement:

"You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 miles (480 kilometers). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some uniquedriving characteristics. Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000 miles(1600 kilometers). Vary your speed frequently and change up throughthe gears early. Do not labor the engine. Do not tow during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers)." [2013 F-150 Owner's Manual p287]

It seems so vague... what's "too fast"? how do you "change up through the gears early" on an automatic vehicle?

so I'm curious... How did you guys break in your new vehicle?

Cheers,
Dave
 

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I drove mine a little easy, but vary your rpms , it will help seat rings and bearings before you really run it.
 

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Use the manual mode to shift early.
 

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If you can find a nice back road where you speed will vary and go through the gears, that will help a lot. The WORST thing to do, is take it on a long trip with the cruise set at freeway speeds for hundreds of miles.

A mix of some city traffice and back road traffic would be ideal.

Also, take it easy for the first hundred miles and give it a "bit more throttle" to put a load on the engine as you drive more and more. Lastly, the computer on all new vehicles emulates you typcial driving. Both for the engine and transmission. Drive it like a "old grey haired senior" and your engine and transmission will remember that and perform like an "old grey haied senior". Driving "briskly" and the engine & transmission will remember that too.

On some older OBD1 ECMs, I worked with a bunch of guys "disassembling" the code and reverse engineering what was in the program. That's where we discovered the "computer's learning" capabiilty and ability to emulate your driving habits. Whenever you would disconnect the battery, we found driving it briskly, helped the computer get a nice tune.

PS: Does anyone know where a person can buy a Tuning Software which you can buy, rework the fuel maps and settings, and reload it onto the trucks PCM? I know of similar software for other Manufacturers, but this is my first Ford and I would really like to "dive into" the PCM.
 

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I gunned the shidt out of it. Wound out the gears shifting manually. Bounced it off the of the rev limiter at the top of 3rd gear. You know, drove it like normal.
If you said you side swiped three parked cars while driving by braille, I was going to say I have a friend who drives just like you. Except their first name is "Crash".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I gunned the shidt out of it. Wound out the gears shifting manually. Bounced it off the of the rev limiter at the top of 3rd gear. You know, drove it like normal.
LMAO! A woman after my own heart!

And interesting.. I didn't know the computer "learned" your driving style.. maybe there is something to this drive it as you normally would..
 

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Engine break in. There are some topics that are very sensitive. People believe what they believe for reasons that are way to strong to trust the recommendation of a stranger over the internet over the way they believe it should be done. When I say that I understand if you think I'm crazy for doing it this way, I do understand. First thing is 'engine break in' is nothing more than seating the piston rings. That's it. When an engine is built the cylinder walls have a crosshatch pattern cut into them to help shape the piston rings to shape of the cylinder. The piston rings have a cutting edge on them to help shape the cylinder walls to the shape of the spring loaded rings. They wear against each other during that cycle we call 'engine break in' to form the perfect seal. They are going to form that perfect seal one way or the other. The way that works best for you is for that perfect seal to be formed uniform from the bottom of the piston's stroke up to the top of the piston's stroke. Because the rings are spring loaded they can open and close slightly to accommodate the cylinder not being cut perfectly during break in but this has its draw backs. Engines that aren't cut true top to bottom are lazier or sluggish in comparison to their counterparts with uniformly cut cylinders. Ford engine manufacturing process is very precise. Years ago they measured machine work by the thousandths of an inch. They are measuring by fractions of millimeters and ten thousandths of an inch now. Its gotten very very precise. This means that break in times are not nearly as long as they used to be as the engines are nearly perfect upon assembly. Nearly perfect. The piston rings do the work in the break in as they are the only moving part involved in the process. The pistons' speed varies even with constant rpm. A piston moves much faster in the middle of the stroke than it does at the top and bottom of the stroke. The piston has to slow down stop and change direction at the top and bottom of the stroke. This makes it more difficult for the ring to 'cut' these areas of the cylinder as true as it does the middle. If we don't overcome this somehow it will cause the cylinder to be tighter at the top and bottom and squeeze the piston ring tighter (it is spring loaded) at the top and bottom of the stroke effective causing a braking action to the piston (making the engine sluggish). The only way to overcome this challenge is with rpm. Increased RPMs means increased piston speed. The rpms have to be high enough for the piston to carry enough speed through its slowest parts of the stroke to still cut the cylinder wall true. Now factor in the mother of all evils when it comes to engine break in....synthetic oil. The same thing that makes syth oil great make it your adversary in engine break in and our engines come to us with semi-syth oil in it. Have you ever noticed how hard it is to wash synthetic oil off of your hands? That stuff clings and stays slick. This hampers the cutting action needed in break in. So how do you get the rings to still effectively cut......with rpms. Just like with sandpaper the rings will cut best when they are new and as they wear the cutting is reduced. This makes the early break in period critical. I've seen drag racing engines that were built and make one pass and have a problem that required a tear down. In those 10 seconds of full throttle operation the rings were worn smooth and the cylinders were cut straight!!! No manufacturer is going to stick their neck on the line by advising you to drive unsafely in the name of breaking in your engine. I'm not telling you to do that either. I've only told you why I chose to be so aggressive in how I broke in my engine. My very first post here I told the story of how my current Ecoboost F150 is actually the second one I've owned. My first was totaled in a crash that I walked away from unscathed. No I did not crash it trying to break in the engine. But I have owned two IDENTICAL trucks. I did not break in the first one as aggressively as I broke in this one. This one gets a full mpg better gas mileage. I recently got my worst fuel economy for a 1/2 tank of fuel. Mostly city driving and not caring about being frugal. I wanted to see what the worst I should ever expect to get would be and my average was 16mpg. Remarkably that's exactly what Ford lists the city milage as so I think I may have gotten the break in pretty close to just right. So if you haven't figure it out by now, I wasn't joking. I did manually wind out the gears and I did bounce it off the rev limiter at the top of third as its maiden voyage out of the dealership parking lot. My dealership's parking lot exits onto an interstate on ramp so I needed to merge into fast moving traffic anyway.:p I didn't mean to hit the rev limiter but ship happens.
 

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Vary your speed. Hard off the green light. Cruise on the highway. That's what I'm doing with my 2013 Hyubdai Elantra GLS 6sp manual. Bought yesterday. 200km. The way we broke in the 2012 XTR eb was, the wife drove it like her grandma. I drove it like a white kid running from the cops. & yes the BOV is getting louder. my wife just drive for the last 2 weeks & I filled it up, 934km to E. when I drive it for 2 weeks & full up, maybe 700-800km to E. I'm not sure what the question was but both our vehicles are Silver now. matchy matchy ;) ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375684123.597202.jpg
 

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My truck is due to arrive this week, it's been a long 8 weeks! I agree with Nasty, my last new truck was a company 2004 2500 Dodge hemi. Boss had me pull my 8500 lb work trailer 50 miles away to do a day job. Pulled it back that evening back up to Cheyenne in a 50 mph headwind uphill 2nd gear pretty much the whole way. Odometer started at 75 miles on the truck. I drove it to 115000 with very few problems no oil leaks or usage. mainly regular maintance
 
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