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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just attempted to fix an exhaust leak on my driver side turbo flange. Ended up breaking the first stud at the round portion. I found a post where someone used a GRIP TITE 14mm bolt extractor, which success.
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I am trying to find the same bolt extractor that was used successfully, but having a hard time finding. I see lots of different styles, but don’t know if they look as good. Mine broke using the standard stud extractor that we all use. Any thoughts on how to remove, if the bolt extractor truck does not go as planned? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just picked up the CERT at Lowe’s. The stud has been a battle for two days. First the nut itself stripped and was just turning in circles. So I had to Dremel that off of the stud without trying to destroy the stud. After I removed the nut I sprayed, map gas, sprayed, map gas. Then it snapped all the way down to where it’s pictured. I will give this a go. If this doesn’t work I just don’t know what to do. I also purchased a drill extractor thing. I guess I can give that a go after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hope the bolt remover thing works. Drilling it out concerns me. I don’t want to mess up the threads on the turbo. I’ve never removed the turbos on the truck. And I’m not looking forward to it. I think with that driver side downpipe removed and out-of-the-way, I have enough access to get in there with a drill if I had to. Just concerned about the angle and what not. Do you think it will help to continue spraying and heating over the next couple days, even if I’m not going to hit the bolt until next week on my next day off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The Irwin tool worked on it. After 2 days the bolt is out. I go to install the new studs from FactionFab. Nice stainless steel. But the piece is to big with the new nut to fasten the turbo adapters. When you go to slide the Dow pipe flange on, it does not fit over the stud. The hole is not big enough on the Down pipe flange. I can’t believe this. I ordered the correct piece. Has any had this issue?
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The downpipe flange opening is just a bit larger than the OEM studs. So as you tighten the downpipe the top of that perch goes inside the downpipe flange. With a new studs the perch is too wide to fit through the downpipe flange. So as you tighten it the downpipe itself does not sit tight on the turbo adapter. The picture you show has a longer downpipe attached to it which allows it to sit tight still without the perch interfering with the flange. The threads are fine on these, it’s just that perch is too big to go through the downpipe flange. I don’t know if this matters but I do have AMS down pipes, not OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’m gonna post my first picture I put up. Look at the pink arrow you can see the dark circle on the perch. That is about how much of the piece sets inside of the downpipe flange. Hope this makes sense.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I found out that AMS downpipe flange is larger than stock. That is why the OEM stud perch goes into the downpipe flange. The FactionFab studs have a larger perch. This is not an issue with stock downpipe flange. As stock rests on top. But will not work with AMS downpipes or some other aftermarket downpipes. Also verified this from AMS as well as FactionFab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think I can trim down the hex head enough to make the stainless ones work. What are your guys thoughts as far as using OEM black studs versus stainless as far as strength and being able to remove without breaking the next go around?
 
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