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Yes and yes. The factory cooler adapter goes in the scrap bin with the cooler. The replacement part from Ford is: AL3Z-6890-A

The replacement lower hose which deletes that really restrictive "coolant diverter" from Ford is: FL3Z-8C289-A

Eliminates the factory cooler, allows for a relocation of the filter and addition of a much higher quality cooler.

And yes...previous owner obviously did not take care of this thing. When I dropped the oil pan it had sludge up to the pickup tube...absolutely horrible.
 
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I expect it to cool slightly better just by removing that "diverter" lower hose from the equation and allowing more coolant to flow freely. We shall see.
 
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Oh you will also need a 14mm hex head that is either long, or a large set of industrial Allen keys that has that size to remove the factory oil cooler adapter.

Will get some more pictures up in a thread of its own to kind of break everything down for those that are interested, soon.

If I had the budget I would have just purchased the ready made kit from RMB, instead I had to go another direction. It will work, just likely won't be as pretty.
 
@RMB_Ryan what temp housing from Improved do you recommend? I have noted people saying 185 and others saying 205...insight?
 
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I know coolant temp has to do something with the oil temp as well, being that I have a 170 thermostat installed, should I go with a lower temp on the remote mount?
 
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@RMB_Ryan what temp housing from Improved do you recommend? I have noted people saying 185 and others saying 205...insight?
I asked Improved when I got my setup and this is what they said:

For engine oil, we recommend the 200F activation temp option (205F stabilization). Assuming that the oil cooler that you're running is suitable for the heat load of your engine, we've found that the 200F keeps oil temps at an acceptable range while allowing it to get just hot enough to burn off collected condensation and contaminants. The 215F option is mostly for track-only applications where a thicker weight oil is used with a higher operating temperature.
I would not go with anything lower than the 200F stat because of the condensation issue. Overcooling the oil is not good, you want it to run warm enough but no too hot.
 
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I asked Improved when I got my setup and this is what they said:



I would not go with anything lower than the 200F stat because of the condensation issue. Overcooling the oil is not good, you want it to run warm enough but no too hot.
I highly suggest only running 205 and always -10

We run a large oil cooler about 80,000 btu


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Is that some custom bracket with -10AN fittings on there for the oil ports? Or something you can purchase? Seems like it would flow much better removing that 90 degree bend from the OEM oil adapter.
 
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I highly suggest only running 205 and always -10

We run a large oil cooler about 80,000 btu


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Which cooler? and how much capacity does that add? about an extra quart?
 
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Ordered the Improved Racing ENV-170 with the 205 degree thermostat. Would have picked up their relocation adapter as well but it was out of stock so went with a Derale unit that will suit my needs since I am getting my temp/pressure feeds from the oil filter adapter itself. Will be running a pair of 30 row stacked plate coolers for both the oil and trans, obviously two separate systems. :LOL:

Totally feeling spoiled with all this space, having the entire front end taken off makes it so much easier to work on these trucks.
 
Is that some custom bracket with -10AN fittings on there for the oil ports? Or something you can purchase? Seems like it would flow much better removing that 90 degree bend from the OEM oil adapter.
We have them inn stock. They are -10orb to -12 or -19orb to -10 an

Do not use -12 not good we want higher flow and velocity which -12 is the same as a hvac hose being used compared to the 5/8” -10


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Ryan I was unable to locate just the adapter on your site, it showed the unit plus the factory oil filter adapter and threaded insert to delete the cooler.

Spoke with Improved, they pointed me in the right direction and actually had the correct unit in stock, I was looking at the wrong one.

Thank you for the input.
 
Are there advantages to the remote filter location other than ease in changing the filter? I think the thermostatic sandwich adapter is a more simple solution because it keeps the stock filter location. What are the downsides to the sandwich adapter setup? are the internal cavities not a true -10AN size? Are they prone to leakage?
 
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Are there advantages to the remote filter location other than ease in changing the filter? I think the thermostatic sandwich adapter is a more simple solution because it keeps the stock filter location. What are the downsides to the sandwich adapter setup? are the internal cavities not a true -10AN size? Are they prone to leakage?
I guess a larger filter too, but not sure if that is necessary. I would think with a larger filter you might see less pressure drop across the media.

I know the Fram XG8A filter from the old Windsor V8's is like 4x the size of the OE Ecoboost filter. I ran it on my Jeep Liberty and now my 4Runner.
 
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The advantage for me was partially the relocation of the filter, as it is a heck of a mess even using a rag or aluminum disposable pie pan. The secondary goal was to replace the inferior oil cooler as while towing I was seeing temperature spikes. Removing that incredibly restrictive lower radiator hose and adding a 30 row cooler should be a big help.

I will be running a Royal Purple 30-8A filter, which is larger, but do not expect a pressure drop. Lines are short, plus I installed the Melling M390HV oil pump.

The reasoning behind this is the OEM pump had been sucking up sludge for a while as the previous owner did not care for this motor. The pickup tube and pump were full of gunk. I can only imagine how the valleys and ports are...maybe it will self clean, maybe not. Hence the larger filter. Of course I will be changing oil and filters quite often in the front end of this work and cutting open the filters to see what has been caught. If I can get another 30K miles out of it before having to pull and rebuild...great.

Will advise when it is all said and done.
 
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The advantage for me was partially the relocation of the filter, as it is a heck of a mess even using a rag or aluminum disposable pie pan. The secondary goal was to replace the inferior oil cooler as while towing I was seeing temperature spikes. Removing that incredibly restrictive lower radiator hose and adding a 30 row cooler should be a big help.

I will be running a Royal Purple 30-8A filter, which is larger, but do not expect a pressure drop. Lines are short, plus I installed the Melling M390HV oil pump.

The reasoning behind this is the OEM pump had been sucking up sludge for a while as the previous owner did not care for this motor. The pickup tube and pump were full of gunk. I can only imagine how the valleys and ports are...maybe it will self clean, maybe not. Hence the larger filter. Of course I will be changing oil and filters quite often in the front end of this work and cutting open the filters to see what has been caught. If I can get another 30K miles out of it before having to pull and rebuild...great.

Will advise when it is all said and done.
I really don't think that lower hose is that much of a restriction, if at all, considering its about 6" from the thermostat. The hose itself has a flow area many times that of the thermostat so I really doubt that Tee is doing anything to restrict water flow.

I decided to leave mine in place because i want to make sure that at low speeds, the oil is still being cooled. If you mount the oil cooler down in front of the CAC like a lot of people do, it won't have much air flow at low speeds.

Take the transmission cooler for example. The other day when my transmission line blew off I bypassed the radiator cooler until I could get it home. Because I was only running the air cooler, and the fans didnt kick on until the coolant got up to 210 or so, my transmission fluid temps actually hit like 225F just sitting still with the truck in drive. The only reason it stopped climbing was because the fans did eventually kick on and pulled air through the cooler. If you have the oil cooler down low with no flow from the fans, things could get mighty hot in a situation with no air flow.
 
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Mass, I understand your view point, however in this application my coolers will not be sandwiched between the condenser and radiator rather they will now occupy the former CACIC location in the bumper. I am also running 1750 CFM fans on them as a backup for when at low speeds. I do not expect airflow to be an issue as the location has a large cavity and will be getting adequate flow.

As was covered in RMB's thread, the OEM lower hose with the tow package has a very restrictive section in the T, I am honestly not sure how Ford engineers came up with such a design as there is no real "flow" from the lower hose to the cooler and back. It is very passive.

To each his own, but gaining the real estate in the bumper area by installing the FR FMIC will be a plus for me I believe.
 
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Also, forgot to mention...I am completely deleting the radiator trans cooler. PTFE -8 AN all the way from the trans to the cooler, which will also be in the bumper area.
 
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Restriction or not, to me the benefit is decoupling the heat load off the cooling system. With 50% of the coolant being heated and dumped back in as supply, you're already starting with a pretty hot baseline going into the motor. Remember turbo cooling is at the end of the coolant flow circuit... Piss poor design all around. Perhaps they are using this to get a jump on thermostat opening?

About that sandwich adapter, can't it be installed directly on the oem adapter with the oil cooler deleted?
 
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