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I have seen you all talking about the catch can and do you guys recommend it and will I have a problem with the dealer as far as the warranty is concerned when it goes back for a oil change
 

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Really up to if the dealer is "cool" or not. There's a FEW local dealer here, some would void my warranty on my old Excursion if they saw an Airaid intake on it, others sold them and didn't care.
Really need to talk to your local service advisor/manager. Bring donuts and some coffee, usually butters them up. :)
 

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Your warranty can NOT be voided for this, or nearly anything else. Contrary to most conspiracy theorists. (Google search: Magnussen-Moss Act)

The best can on the market (all others re copy-cats) is Billet Technology (.com). They don't make mounting brackets for our trucks, but you can make your own. Just buy the can for a 5.7 Hemi Charger.
 

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Your warranty can NOT be voided for this, or nearly anything else. Contrary to most conspiracy theorists. (Google search: Magnussen-Moss Act)
While legally true, when stating this remember it comes down to a lawyer fight and usually they have more money than we do for that....
 

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Sorry, this one is better...
Plus it's sold by two of our supporting vendors here on the forum.

RX Catch Can w/ Dual Check Valve
Hey, those look like really nice units! A few of concerns I have about them however: 1- "poly" check valves = plastic; 2- check valves, period = to many moving parts for what essentially should b a passive component; 3- plastic inlet/outlet connections (a real deal breaker for me). Not to mention the price (3x Billet Tech!), AND that they are GM application only. Plus, they appear to be ENORMOUS (unnecessarily so).

With all due respect, being a forum vendor bears no weight in my decisions. The B.T. cans mount easier (smaller too) and work well with the Ford EB engine.
 

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Hey, those look like really nice units! A few of concerns I have about them however: 1- "poly" check valves = plastic; 2- check valves, period = to many moving parts for what essentially should b a passive component; 3- plastic inlet/outlet connections (a real deal breaker for me). Not to mention the price (3x Billet Tech!), AND that they are GM application only. Plus, they appear to be ENORMOUS (unnecessarily so).

With all due respect, being a forum vendor bears no weight in my decisions. The B.T. cans mount easier (smaller too) and work well with the Ford EB engine.
Read this thread.
Pay special attention to the posts by Tracy.

http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2869
 

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I have seen you all talking about the catch can and do you guys recommend it and will I have a problem with the dealer as far as the warranty is concerned when it goes back for a oil change
Who goes to the dealer for an oil change!?!?!?
 

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Who goes to the dealer for an oil change!?!?!?
Not me, not in 45 years of driving. I have done them all, even back when I used to do it on 3K miles cycles. I've just heard too many horror stories. I would rather make sure it gets done right.
 

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However, I work at a dealer. And we see even more cars coming in from other shops banged up. Id go to dealer only. Or do it myself.
 

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Who goes to the dealer for an oil change!?!?!?
I've always done my own. However with the truck new and this engine known to have the oil creation/cac issues, I take it in through the warranty power train warranty.

If you've ever read my posts you know I hate dealerships and have had big issues with most in my area. The guy I bought the truck from is 3.5 hours away. Receipts and computer records validating my changes will go a long way with the assholes I have to put up with down here.

Example: took my truck in for a change at covert ford in hutto tx. Told the manager if like to get some issues on the books after explaining how vw ripped me off and refused to look at things they hadn't got to work after the warranty expired, even though the work was started within warranty.

After explaining that my truck has a high idle at start and the truck shoots out of my driveway even after I step on the brake and put it in gear, he gives me some bullshit about how drive by wire works and it's prolly different from my old vehicles. ???? Interesting because my 04 dodge and 06 Jetta and 04 f150, 08 f150 and 05 f250 were drive by wire and when I step on the brake they drop the high idle to allow me to shift instead of engaging reverse at high idle causing me to jut out of the driveway.

So if I can say this truck has only been to you, you better fix this crap now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have done all my own oil changes but as far as this new truck they will continue to do the oil changes as long as i have a warranty on it. As far as trusting a dealership, big 0
 

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I've always done my own. However with the truck new and this engine known to have the oil creation/cac issues, I take it in through the warranty power train warranty.

If you've ever read my posts you know I hate dealerships and have had big issues with most in my area. The guy I bought the truck from is 3.5 hours away. Receipts and computer records validating my changes will go a long way with the assholes I have to put up with down here.

Example: took my truck in for a change at covert ford in hutto tx. Told the manager if like to get some issues on the books after explaining how vw ripped me off and refused to look at things they hadn't got to work after the warranty expired, even though the work was started within warranty.

After explaining that my truck has a high idle at start and the truck shoots out of my driveway even after I step on the brake and put it in gear, he gives me some bullshit about how drive by wire works and it's prolly different from my old vehicles. ???? Interesting because my 04 dodge and 06 Jetta and 04 f150, 08 f150 and 05 f250 were drive by wire and when I step on the brake they drop the high idle to allow me to shift instead of engaging reverse at high idle causing me to jut out of the driveway.

So if I can say this truck has only been to you, you better fix this crap now.
High idle...Do you give the truck a chance to come out of high idle before you throw it in gear?
 

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Give the truck 30-60 seconds to warm up before you rush out of your driveway.
 

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^^^^ This ^^^^
Negative, I shouldn't have to. Haven't with any vehicle I've ever owned that wasn't a diesel. I should be able to start the truck, put my foot on the brake and put the truck in gear. You start the truck it revs up to 1200-1500 rpm and hangs there. Every other drive by wire cuts the rpm when you press on the brake at startup.

The shooting burst of throttle is strange though. I put my foot on the brake, put it in gear and let off to slowly start backwards. It won't really move up the incline so you give it a small bit of gas, which causes it to start to move. Naturally I let off the throttle and move to the brake only to have the truck shoot backwards like someone racks the throttle real quick. Has caused me to almost back into cars parked on the street several times.

Back to the point of this thread. These engines are pretty powerful for their size, but to reach that power they're pretty complicated. As I've posted, mine does some weird goofy stuff that validates having the dealer do the oil while it's power train is in warranty. For the cost of oil and filters it's not worth the savings especially since ford gives you "rewards" and every 5th change free.
 

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Hey, those look like really nice units! A few of concerns I have about them however: 1- "poly" check valves = plastic; 2- check valves, period = to many moving parts for what essentially should b a passive component; 3- plastic inlet/outlet connections (a real deal breaker for me). Not to mention the price (3x Billet Tech!), AND that they are GM application only. Plus, they appear to be ENORMOUS (unnecessarily so).

With all due respect, being a forum vendor bears no weight in my decisions. The B.T. cans mount easier (smaller too) and work well with the Ford EB engine.
I agree w/vendors....but still need to support the good ones or there will be no way to have a forum for free.

Here is the issues noted from your post. A can such as you mentioned will allow as much or more of the oil to pass through as it catches, so put 4 of them on and may still get oil pull through. If you have a billet can, take a $10 clear glass inline fuel filter and install it between the can and the IM vacuum barb...now drive 100 miles and see it is already saturated. So, even though ALL cans will catch oil (same as a beer can w/2 fittings in it, or a mayo jar, etc. as youtube is full of examples). Watch the youtube video of the same can (different brand, same design) showing oil entering on the right side when vacuum is at the least, and sucked up and out the left side when vacuum is at the greatest to see how poorly they work. You can't have a small can like that and have coalescing media right against the outlet and not pull through a good deal of oil:
That video shows an excessive amount of oil ingestion, but clearly demonstrates how most cans are not a solution due to the poor design. If you take a wet washcloth and put it to your mouth and suck on it, what happens? Same principal here.

And with forced induction, you MUST have one-way checkvalves or boost pressure will pressurize the crankcase resulting in oil leaks, etc. The ecoboost engine has one integrated into the passenger side cam cover from the factory.

The problem is they only rely on evacuation during non-boost operation when intake vacuum is suffucient to do so, under boost the pressure back-flows into the main intake tube upstream of the turbo's where it is spread through the entire induction system.

The proper solution uses IM vacuum for evac while in noon boost, then the primary checkvalve closes to prevent pressure entering when boost is detected. When this occurs, the secondary valve then opens and uses the inlet side of the turbos for suction providing proper evacuation while in boost or non boost operation. THE RX system also is a complete system addressing every aspect of whats needed from the ful side to the fresh side, all lines, fittings, bolts, brackets, valves, AN fittings, etc. so you get what you pay for.

Then finally the size. A catchcan must be close to 1 qt internal capacity before the flow through, or the velocity, can slow enough to allow the condensed oil droplets to fall out of suspension. If smaller, then the rate of flow through will always pull droplets with it. Similar to a dentist suction or try this test at home. Take a 3/8" id tube 2' long. Poor a teaspoon of water or any liquid into it while holding it bent so it cannot spill do to gravity. Now blow a slight puff into one end. All the water (or nearly all) will be pulled right with the airflow and out the other end. Same with ANY small can no matter the internal design. Now do the same with a piece of 3/4" id tube (heater hose, etc.) and you can't get a drop to blow out with the flow. This is the Bernoulli effect, the same that causes a low pressure area under an airplanes wing creating lift. Or allows you to suck up spilled soda through a straw, or if you blow over a cup of coffee hard enough you carry coffee right with the air.

All of these principals must be taken into consideration for a oil separating can to work properly. If a can has the outlet barb 1" from the droplets falling, odds are a good deal of those droplets will be carried right out of the can. At idle, take the PCV hose off of the valve cover and see how much CFM of flow is pe=resent....this is why so many cans allow oil pull through.

The only cans that do a good job in catching nearly all the oil (aside from the RX) are the SMC (Saiku Micchi), Elite E-2 (but the outlet should be on the top, not the side as it is still too close to the droplets falling from the coalescing chamber) the Apex (same as the E2) and a couple of others that are of similar size and design. All of these are direct competitors to RX, yet in testing they did very well in stopping oil.

Ask more detailed questions, these are all good.
 
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