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Discussion Starter #1
I know the newer trucks let you change what type of battery using Forscan, but I have not found anything about that for the 11-14 trucks and do not see anything in the As-Built spreadsheet. Does anyone know if there is a way to switch it over to an AGM type battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
PLease explain?

I put a AGM in my 14, no problem.
I also have an AGM in mine and it works fine. I cannot find anything specific to the 11-14 F150 but this is what I am talking about:


The 2015+ F150's also have this setting.

Supposedly, a lot of people are finding that the default battery type on the 11-14's is already set to AGM. I guess I will go check mine and see but there is some though that the truck may charge the AGM different than a regular battery. Not sure, figured I would ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
From forscan Lite





So i guess mine is default to one of the AGM 80 Ah.
 

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I don't see the point of this. As long as the battery is seeing 14.1-14.8 on AGM, it is safe. You can log the voltage of the battery.
 

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I don't see the point of this. As long as the battery is seeing 14.1-14.8 on AGM, it is safe. You can log the voltage of the battery.
I think the setting can also relate to how the truck sees the battery capacity available and when it puts it into sleep mode.
 

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What's sleep mode?
I think it's when the PCM turns the charging on and off to save 0.0000001 mpgs.

I was constantly getting "Low Battery" warnings because of this. So I just pulled the wire off my battery, and I haven't had any "Low Battery" warning since.
 

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Pretty sure those values aren’t real and applicable to the 2011-2014 trucks. AGM settings started when AGM batteries came on trucks with factory start-stop engines. While those bits may be populated in earlier truck’s settings, they probably don’t actually do anything.
 
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I think it's when the PCM turns the charging on and off to save 0.0000001 mpgs.

I was constantly getting "Low Battery" warnings because of this. So I just pulled the wire off my battery, and I haven't had any "Low Battery" warning since.
I have never had the low battery warning. I have BMS plugged in....at least I never messed with it. Maybe the dealer turned it off somehow. I always see battery at 14V driving.

I just recently switched to AGM and no issues still.
 

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I have never had the low battery warning. I have BMS plugged in....at least I never messed with it. Maybe the dealer turned it off somehow. I always see battery at 14V driving.

I just recently switched to AGM and no issues still.
I believe he is referring to the "low battery" symbol that pops up in the gauge cluster when the truck is off, but key is on. It'll pop up if you leave the key on too long while the radio is playing or something else is drawing power from the battery.
 

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I believe he is referring to the "low battery" symbol that pops up in the gauge cluster when the truck is off, but key is on. It'll pop up if you leave the key on too long while the radio is playing or something else is drawing power from the battery.
Yes, plus it can show up when driving. This is caused by the technology trying to save fuel by disabling the alternator until the battery gets to a certain low point.

It would show up in all seasons, but winters with the short daylight, cold winters and heater/fan on full blast all take a toll, when this mode is enabled. Yanking the plug at the batter is the best fix for this problem.

Back in 2013-2014, a lot of guys were having problems with this (all gone now) and often the dealerships kept changing batteries, when the problem was the charging system technology.
 

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Yes, plus it can show up when driving. This is caused by the technology trying to save fuel by disabling the alternator until the battery gets to a certain low point.

It would show up in all seasons, but winters with the short daylight, cold winters and heater/fan on full blast all take a toll, when this mode is enabled. Yanking the plug at the batter is the best fix for this problem.

Back in 2013-2014, a lot of guys were having problems with this (all gone now) and often the dealerships kept changing batteries, when the problem was the charging system technology.
Thats, good to know,
I have never seen it while driving, so I am glad you shared that.
That'll give a few guys piece of mind, knowing that ahead of time.
 

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I think the setting can also relate to how the truck sees the battery capacity available and when it puts it into sleep mode.
This is another scheme to save a .0001mpg. Charge the battery on the overrun, when the energy is “free”, charge the battery at a rate that won’t cook it and increase/reduce(?) the rate as the battery ages.
Where I I used to get 5 or so years out of a battery in my old Hondas, my 3 series BMW got more than 7 yrs. Like the later F-150, the BMW requires battery registration and coding to tell the system whet kind of battery it is, capacity and age. It seems to help, I think. Inevitably, you get the young/uninformed who say, I put in a new battery and did nothing and it’s working fine. It will for a while, but won’t last as long as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is another scheme to save a .0001mpg. Charge the battery on the overrun, when the energy is “free”, charge the battery at a rate that won’t cook it and increase/reduce(?) the rate as the battery ages.
Where I I used to get 5 or so years out of a battery in my old Hondas, my 3 series BMW got more than 7 yrs. Like the later F-150, the BMW requires battery registration and coding to tell the system whet kind of battery it is, capacity and age. It seems to help, I think. Inevitably, you get the young/uninformed who say, I put in a new battery and did nothing and it’s working fine. It will for a while, but won’t last as long as it should.
My OE F150 battery was still working after 5+ years but when my Jeep blew up and I parted it out I had a spare Odessey PC-1750 laying around. Decided to swap that in even though I probably could have kept going on the OE one
 
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