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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys,

I've been hearing an extreme rattle/squeal from the drivers turbo area which I beleive is a leaky manifold ... Really bad on cold startup, and first couple spool ups until engine is hot, very Loud and embarrassing. I'm going to dig into it this weekend, and I've read one of the written guides already on this forum. The one main issue I foresee is my downpipe to turbo bolts. I live in Canada with insane winters and salted roads... The bolts look red and white speckled and I almost garuntee this will be an issue (73 000 miles) it's a 2014. I will try to soak overnight with a good penetrating liquid but any tips? Can the manifold change be done without removing the turbo from the downpipe? I'm assuming it would be one heck of a pain?

Once I have the turbo out of the engine bay (if I can get the bolts), I'm going to try and change those studs - I might use the puller and heat etc. And yes I have a table vice. Any personal experience tips from people who did their own manifold replacement or downpipe swap? Many issues with these bolts? Is it pretty much just penetrating liquid and impact or brute force? Any other helpful hints for the job would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

Will probably purchase
Manifold gasket
Manifold
Studs and nuts (manifold)
Turbo to manifold gasket
Turbo to manifold studs nuts
4 coolant feed turbo connectors (I assume the block connections use the same connectors or do I only need the two for the turbo) W orings
Oil feed gasket
 

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Biggest issue I delt with was removal of turbo and flange on the down pipe side of turbo. Was able to wrestle removal of the downpipe from flange, but flange to turbo was stuck. After pulling the two from truck ended up grinding the flanges off. Was swapping out for GT turbos and CR manifolds. This being way after 140k miles with 2011 truck in NJ.

Good luck!

You also read up on coolant lines and jiffy tite fittings?



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Discussion Starter #3
Ah jiffy tite that's the name. How many do I need (want to replace as I know they leak, my passenger side is leaking for sure) is it four per side?

That first exhaust flange I'm worried about those nuts bring seized, once that's off I see I can pry bar to get enough clearance to take the turbo out with the flange still attached. I'm just worried about getting to that point. We're those first nuts tough?
 

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If you are referring to the black hard tubes with the Jiffy-tite connectors then yes they are the coolant tubes.

Here are the part numbers for the Jiffy-tite connectors:

Quantity of 2 (6A968-A) for the BLOCK

Quantity of 2 (6A968-B) for the HEADS

Quantity of 4 (6A968-C) for the TURBOS, two for each.

Torque specs:

Tighten to 18 Nm (159 lb-in)

Tool for Jiffy-tite connectors:

Lisle 22930 3/8" Low Profile Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A...cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m.mMCbZ4A7ATW
 

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Discussion Starter #5
holy smokes the jiffy-tite full kit is a bit of money, but you say its the 3/8" right, ill maybe try to find that in short order. I can find fuel line disconnects (plastic) fairly simply but i am guessing that might take some finagling to make it work - amazon prime to the rescue i guess (Cant find jiffy-tite local)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you wouldnt happen to also have the torque specs of the manifold studs and nuts would you? Also the oil feed and return, do they need gaskets, i assume so but who knows
 

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Discussion Starter #7
your part number quantities for the jiffy-tite - thats for the whole job i.e. both sides - maybe i should just buy them all - i dont need to change the passenger side manifold yet, but thats the side i have a coolant leak from
 

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I would lower the down pipe. It would make the job way easier. Then you can address your coolant leak and your manifold leak. A few more comments:

1) Check the torque specification on the jiffy fitting that goes in the block. I believe it's MORE than the ones in the turbos.

2) The oil feed is a metal gasket. This one is tricky to install because any amount of dirt will make it leak. Make sure it goes in dry and done exactly as written in the service manual. The return line (connected to the same tube) is an o-ring that gets pushed into the block.

3) I personally could not reach the jiffy fittings on the back of the heads. If they aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother. The pipe can be gently moved upwards and held there so you can pull the turbos.

4) A pick tool or a small screwdriver is easier to use for removing the clips on the jiffy tite fittings. I bought the tool, but it was a total waste of money.

5) If you plan on replacing the turbo adapter to turbo gasket and the studs (recommended), definitely have a stud extractor, a blow torch, and a good vise.

I used "deep creep" for all my bolts and they weren't too difficult. The only ones that gave me issues were the studs in the turbos. Even with the extractor tool, I needed to use a 3 foot break bar on them. I would say they were in there about 200-300 ft. pounds!

Finally if you're lowering the down pipe, consider replacing the O2 sensors if they have any amount of mileage on them. This is way easy once the pipe is lowered than doing it while it's installed on the truck. It's a good chance to also scope the CATs to see how clogged they are.
 

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Is it imperative to replace the jiffy connectors? Why can't they be reused?
No, but they are only about $4-5 each. So for ~$30 you can buy them all new. The problem with reusing them is the o-ring inside it shrinks, which causes them to leak. The metal also gets pitted and corroded. So I would be leery about taking steel wool to them and just replacing the o-ring. Wait until you see how bad they look.
 

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No, but they are only about $4-5 each. So for ~$30 you can buy them all new. The problem with reusing them is the o-ring inside it shrinks, which causes them to leak. The metal also gets pitted and corroded. So I would be leery about taking steel wool to them and just replacing the o-ring. Wait until you see how bad they look.
I'm having a repair facility (not Ford) do this repair next week to both manifolds and it doesn't sound like this is standard procedure when making this repair. I guess I need to ask them to go ahead and order those connectors and replace them or buy them myself and hand them to them when I drop of the truck.
 

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It's not standard procedure, but they are a known failure item that leaks. Change them. Going back to fix the leak on one means ripping into it again. People are charged $600-1000 PER SIDE to have these leaks fixed. It's all labor on a $5 part! Gotta love Ford engineering.
 

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Oh please... (Although thanks for the compliment!) If I can save another guy just 1 ounce of the grief I have had to endure I'll feel all the better for it.
 

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You do have a well documented thread on swapping manifolds, don't you?

Or is my recall confused with a timing chain thread?

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I posted in both. There's been so many people that have done the repair and added to the body of knowledge here. I'm just grateful I wasn't the first and others here were helpful to me when I went through it
 

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Well said DNA Dan

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Discussion Starter #20
Well holy crap! That was the second worst experience I’ve had hahahaha - I'm all done, but it wasn’t without its assortment of hang-ups and triumph's. let me give you my rundown

first I had to remove the inner fender liners, kind of a pain with the factory fender flares, got that out then started with the disassembly, removing the intake and charge pipes was straightforward enough, un-clipping the PCV and various sensors of course, then came the downpipe nuts - I had soaked everything in a "liquid wrench" so to speak - basically found online that the best was a 50/50 mix of ATF fluid and acetone - I put it in a plastic spray bottle and it worked like a charm. What a pain it was getting the tools on the nut that is right up against the trans tunnel etc. - if you do not have an assortment of extensions and swivels, don’t even attempt this job. After I got the downpipe flange disconnected, li moved on to the coolant and oil lines, oil was easy, the coolant lines were a bastard (they were stuck in the jiffy tite fittings), the bolts holding the turbo to manifold then were easy, then my manifold studs which some were seized/on so hard I had to use an impact and a torch to get them to come off. Without the torch I doubt the studs would’ve released - my rear stud was snapped off (closest to firewall - I was doing the driver side FYI) good think I bought the stud extractor, it worked like a charm and there was a bunch of the stud sticking out so that helped. I should mention there was no conceivable way to get the jiffy tite connector off the back of the engine, I hope it doesn’t leak on me because I was moving the line around and I bet I broke the seal. I took the one bolt off the jiffy tite coolant line (that either feeds or drains the turbo) off of the block, and lost that bolt in the engine somewhere, it dropped down and I couldn’t find it so I spent a while getting a fix for that (found a bolt I had that fit, just had to shorten it). re-installation was an unbelievable pain, had to use a torque wrench and multiple extensions while laying on concrete and having the extensions fall off because of gravity etc.. --- oh forgot to mention that prior to removing the jiffy tites from the turbo, I drained the oil and the coolant - coolant was drained from passenger side petcock - it must have just been the rad because when i broke the top turbo jiffy tite, I sprayed coolant for a good minute or two (the truck is still burning it off) - after I had the manifold mounted getting the turbo on and connecting the jiffy tite pipes IMO was quite easy, just accessing the screws was a pain (extensions and swivels) - I feel like the truck didn’t take the same amount of coolant back that I bled out, so I’m still waiting for the level to drop so I can top up etc. - but all in all it was ok, its running good now, no sounds, just stinky burn off of coolant and homemade liquid wrench hahahaha.


I should mention that I bought a new turbo flange, turbo to downpipe studs, nuts and gasket – I tried my stud extractor on it with no luck, to tell you the truth I was so done with working on the truck I said F it and left the turbo downpipe flange, gasket and studs as is, I installed new nuts but I was done wrestling with the job.



Hope you guys find it easier, but it was a little bit of hell for me…cant wait till the passenger side goes
 
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