[F150teetee]

Driving to work today. Easy driving highway. Pulled up to stop light. Noticed truck shaking a bit. Then heard the sound as well. I can see the crank pulley off balance or something. Thoughts? I know it’s not good.
video link below

March 9, 2023

youtube.com

####update 03-10. Dealer verified the crank is either damaged, broke or spun bearing.
After removing the balancer, the crankshaft has a ton of play in it. In the 5 miles of driving, it
Has already started to destroyed the Main crank seal.

 

[Upshifter]

No immediate guesses, but if you upload your video to YouTube and post the link here we can hear and see more.

 

[F150teetee]

I added link to post

 

[Sitnud]

Probably a bearing but its likely doing a lot more damage at this point. That's definitely not good!

 

[Justinjs]

Dare you to floor it.

 

[butthead]

Didn't you have the water pump replaced, and latter head gaskets? KM

 

[F150teetee]

I had an over heat condition last year. Due to bad water pump. Ford replaced water pump and also did cam phasers at same time. I told them at that time I was shooting coolant out of the overflow tank. And I though I had a bad head gasket. They disagreed. Months later I was still shooting coolant out of expansion tank under high boost. I verified with shop that I had bad head gasket. So I had them install ARP head studs and Cometic gaskets. Couple months later and today, all the sudden this new issue. It sounds horrible and the balancer is visibly wobbling. I don’t understand how it’s wobbling and not leaking oil out of the front main seal.

 

[FanaticalKilla]

Looks like someone didn’t torque the crank pulley.

 

[F150teetee]

I just spoke with ford. They pulled the balancer off. The front crank seal was getting beat up from the shaft falling out of balance. He is able to wobble the crank while in the motor. So with the crank broke or spun bearings somewhere allowing the crank to move around. So they said it needs a new motor😞

 

[F150teetee]

The price for a new long block and labor is crazy. So is a new short block. Question for you all. Would you do a short block and have your heads, Cometic gaskets, ARP, head studs, and other parts moved over to the short block? Or do a new long block? The price difference is minimal. My concern would be having OEM head gasket and OEM head studs again. What do you think?
At this point, it’s either buy a new truck, which is a lot of money. I even thought about buying a used 2018 or 19. But then inheriting someone else’s problems.

 

[Justinjs]

That sucks!

Head gasket failure on these trucks isn't really a thing, maybe if your running some crazy tune (not sure if you are). I know they aren't torque to yield, but I wouldn't reuse head gaskets or bolts, better off with new. If it were my money, it would get a new block, price depending on difference of short vs long block. A new long block and it's going to be ready for a few hundred thousand more miles.

I still say floor it and let that crank try to qualify for flight school. Destructive minds want to see some internal parts transition to external. 😂

 

[FanaticalKilla]

How many miles on your motor?

 

[mijdirtyjeep]

Has it been torn down to see if new bearings (maybe a line bore) and possibly just a new crank is all you need?

 

[F150teetee]

About 93k now. New head gaskets were done at 87k.
No, they have not removed any other parts yet. I feel like they don’t want to do any extra work investigating a partial build.

 

[Dghal]

Well that is dissapointing, You could see in the video the bolt was wobbling with the pully. Whats the history on use on this?

Do you pull trailers or just daily drive?

 

[F150teetee]

last serviced was for head gasket roughly 6k ago.
I rarely tow. If I do, its a 17' nitro. I towed once in the last 12 months.
Truck has been tuned for roughly 65k miles. Most have been on a E50 tune. Truck has been running clean and good until yesterday.
The difference all in for a short block vs long block is roughly $1500.
If I do a short block, I can reuse my heads if good. Then add ARP studs and Cometic gaskets. Of course I will also have to
reuse other parts as well.
If I do a new long block I will have OEM head studs and head gaskets. I will ask if they will remove the heads and install Cometic and ARP studs.
But I doubt they will.

 

[mijdirtyjeep]

So I take it it’s at the dealer? I’m not too sure they are not the ones who wrecked your motor to begin with. I would be looking for a trusted independent shop to preform the work as it will be a lot cheaper.
I had the same thing happen on my blazer back in the day. It was my fault though as when I replaced the timing chain I did not get the harmonic balancer on straight. It started as a very light engine shake which I blew off. Took off on the highway and it got so bad truck started to shake. Before I could get it to the side of the highway it threw 2 pistons out of the block and a connecting rod out of the oil pan. With that said I have not removed one on an ecoboost so I am not positive it needs to be removed with a puller and put on with a tool.

 

[F150teetee]

My last repair was at an independent shop. As I did not want to take it to my normal Ford dealer. They were both pretty bad in my opinion. It was most recently at the independent shop, which is where I had my head gaskets done. So now I’m taking it to a different Ford dealer which happened to be right next to my work, it was the only one within a couple mile driving distance. If Ford would’ve originally replaced blown head gaskets when I overheated, we most likely would not be where we are today.

 

[F150teetee]

While this is going to be out, any other mods worth while changing?
I have read mixed reviews on exhaust manifold from CRP.
I see Full Race has a pair in production coming.
But ETA may be too far out.

 

[FanaticalKilla]

New manifolds from Ford seem to be the best. Might be worthwhile removing your studs and put them in the new motor with the existing head gaskets. Studs should always be better then head bolts.