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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, after over 250K I am getting some oil fouling on plugs, mostly on 6 and 5, had pulled some the 3 MAF sensors to clean and notice the 2 on the intake and next to throttle body pretty covered in oil. I'm in a mostly dry area of SoCal so condensation wasn't an issue for this mostly babied truck :) but after drilling a small hole in the driver's side of the CAC and initially had about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of oily crud and I did notice the truck much happier the next day of driving.

I changed the number 5 & 6 Plugs and 2 catch cans and will change all 6 plugs in a couple weeks after some of the oil and crud clears out.

Here's my question, after some reading.. I installed some universal cans forward of the CAC and Radiator, plenty of room and installed check valves. I used the factory fittings and just heated up some 1/2" fuel/oil rated hose and pushed over all 4 fittings, 2 on each side of course.

Got me wondering, these trucks have a PCV valve on the WOT drivers side and on the intake at Passenger side, are check valves actually needed on these catch cans? The paths are the same and we're inserting check valves in the same path they already exist, redundancies? The catch can is following same routing what are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance! I installed one way/check valves on the intake side for the passenger and on the WOT pipe driver's same or similar to factory. I of course didn't remove any existing PCV valves, used factory fittings / routing as mentioned.

Thank you!
 

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We have what I personally consider THE thread regarding this subject. I haven't looked for it yet but it more than answers your question(s).

Perhaps someone else knows where it is and will beat me to it. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is that my cue?

How exactly do you have the catch cans setup? Hopefully you copied the stock routing and did not reroute.

I would also pick up the brown pcv valve ( EV297) and have your truck updated to the latest calibration.
Dual cans, exact same routing (IN from crankcase OUT to vacuum / WOT pipe on drivers), used existing fittings. I can go by and have comp updated if that's a good idea. Been a few years I think.

Are the check valves on each side redundant in my case? I've got them on each can pointed away from can on OUT side to engine. I can't help but to think I've added hardware where it isn't needed.. guilty of reading stuff on internet rather than common sense maybe?
 

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Dual cans, exact same routing (IN from crankcase OUT to vacuum / WOT pipe on drivers), used existing fittings. I can go by and have comp updated if that's a good idea. Been a few years I think.

Are the check valves on each side redundant in my case? I've got them on each can pointed away from can on OUT side to engine. I can't help but to think I've added hardware where it isn't needed.. guilty of reading stuff on internet rather than common sense maybe?
I would definitely replace the pcv valve and update the PCM. Just tell them you’re coming in for the Fuel in Oil tsb. That itself helps A LOT.

If I’m reading that correctly, you would only need a check valve on the line coming from the intake manifold to the passenger catch can. Flow going towards the intake manifold. That prevents you from pressurizing the can.

The driver side setup should have NO check valves. Those need to remain wide open as that is your main ventilation point under boost. It also supplies fresh air for the pcv to properly work under vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The driver side setup should have NO check valves. Those need to remain wide open as that is your main ventilation point under boost. The turbo inlet provides vacuum.
Thank you! And yes I think you were reading right, I think you nailed it! I just ordered the EV297 and will couple/remove the check valve from the drivers side and leave the one on the PCV/Passenger side, it's pointed towards the intake and away from the can obviously, I'll mention the TSB and see if they offer me 20K again for my 11 year old truck lol, but I need to drive something and there's not too many low mile 2-3 year old trucks in my basic work truck config for last couple years, oh well, keep 'er running for now!

Side note, a couple years after having this truck.. I worried about all the stuff that happens to these a trans rebuild (me, I'm hard on stuff) some timing chain thing 140K miles ago and now this, not too bad and even just the day after draining the oil from the CAC, it was almost back to it's normal over-powered self. I'll definitely buy another again.. changed with Mobil1 at every 5k for last almost 150k miles, (blended crap before) and just basic service.. good to go.
 

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We have what I personally consider THE thread regarding this subject. I haven't looked for it yet but it more than answers your question(s).

Perhaps someone else knows where it is and will beat me to it. :)
look here:Catch can 101
 

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1 issue I read is when you say you have babied the engine. Do not baby these engines. Tow, haul, and do weekly Italian tuneups, for best results. If it is a grocery getter or urban commuter, get something else to do those jobs.
 

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At 250,000 miles, I don't know his definition of babying anything, but I don't think it's the kind you are legitimately warning? 😉
 
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Absolutely. You are amazingly reliable. :)
And I didn't even need to locate the master thread.
He's like Spidey or as if someone put up the Bat signal !
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks again for the help! I drove less than 200 miles today, it was relatively cool but not cold like 50's to 70's.

I had nearly a couple tablespoons of some awful smelling mixture of water oil and a lil fuel, all normal but I didn't think I'd see that much condensate from the passenger side (I didn't check drivers side yet) on a day where it wasn't very cold, some hilly driving and lots of freeway.

I'd say success unless that seems like too much, I wouldn't think it would get cleaned out or slow down, it's just grabbing between vacuum and crankcase. Bizarre.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
1 issue I read is when you say you have babied the engine. Do not baby these engines. Tow, haul, and do weekly Italian tuneups, for best results. If it is a grocery getter or urban commuter, get something else to do those jobs.
I tow, haul and am up and down hills almost daily, automatic trans don't like me too much lol. I meant babied as in changing oil plugs air filter changing fluids etc.

Another thing I wondered having beat the odds (if I have.. not sure) is I've used at least mid grade Chevron for last 150K miles or so as that's what is close to me, I later realized the only fuel additive recommended is that Techron jazz, I've used a few bottles over the years before an oil change. Not a bunch, maybe 6-8 bottles
 

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Thanks again for the help! I drove less than 200 miles today, it was relatively cool but not cold like 50's to 70's.

I had nearly a couple tablespoons of some awful smelling mixture of water oil and a lil fuel, all normal but I didn't think I'd see that much condensate from the passenger side (I didn't check drivers side yet) on a day where it wasn't very cold, some hilly driving and lots of freeway.

I'd say success unless that seems like too much, I wouldn't think it would get cleaned out or slow down, it's just grabbing between vacuum and crankcase. Bizarre.
Ok. Splain this - I don't have a 'catchcan'. Nigh onto 100k miles. Runs as perfect as any Gen 1 Eco.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok. Splain this - I don't have a 'catchcan'. Nigh onto 100k miles. Runs as perfect as any Gen 1 Eco.
I can't explain it if I tried I'm just learning myself, I didn't have any problems with plug fouling until last 6-12 months and was getting much worse over last few months, talked to my mechanic as I was getting number 6 cracked insulator, assumed it was from detonation maybe clogged injector he said it didn't sound like injector based on symptoms and suggested the ole changing the coil and plug didn't help.

Then recently I was changing the plug again and cleaned the sensors and they were really oily at the throttle body and on top of manifold and I had. That's how I stumbled upon the oil/water etc. collecting in the CAC and sure enough.. drilled a small hole and truck drove better next day, maybe 1/3-1/2 a cup of oil, not much condensation just oil. I ran a cheap scan tool under load and found #5 misfiring right before the catch cans, installed both of them, got some advice here and removed check valve on drivers side and the 150 or so miles today the truck drove great, solid power up grades etc. I was a little shocked and the amount of crud in there for one day, who knows.

I don't think these cans clean anything out, just stops allowing the gunk/oil like what happened in my CAC.
 
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