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By the way, did you replace that little check valve?
I've even heard it suggested to install 2 of them back to back inline to get a little insurance against failure
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Discussion Starter #22
By the way, did you replace that little check valve?
I've even heard it suggested to install 2 of them back to back inline to get a little insurance against failure

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I haven’t checked that, I wasn’t sure where it was or how many I would need to check, I’m assuming it’s the white piece in that picture. I have a 2011 and haven’t been able to determine if there’s 1, 2, or 3 of them or where to look for them. I think I’d prefer them in the “locked” position just not engaged in 4wd so that if there is a vacuum issue it doesn’t cause the cv to suddenly grind against the IWE, both are new and I’d like to keep them in decent shape in the meantime. I realize I may be putting some wear on the boots and the differential in the mean time but some additional wear seems better than something getting completely torn up. I’m not leaving it that way for a long period of time either, winter is coming up and I’d like to have it fixed by then hahaha. Thank you for all of your help and advice, I’d be absolutely lost haha. I understand Fords reasoning behind this but my goodness what a pain haha.


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Yea, it's that little white or Grey looking valve near the master cylinder. I think we only have one. And it is notorious for being the culprit with these IWE issues.

Ironically, on my 18 King Ranch, I have had zero issues until a recent trip of about 300 miles at 75mph, I suddenly heard a momentary clatter (clicking) from the driver's side wheel well. It only lasted a few seconds and I immediately turned the stereo down and listened closely. A few minutes later it did it again. Just a few seconds.

Nasty sound!

I pulled over in the middle of nowhere and switched to 4A. It never made the sound again.

I ordered 2 of those valves from Amazon.

But unlike you and your willingness to immediately tear into the repair, I am a big fat lazy 4A driver with 2 check valves waiting for me to DO something.



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Discussion Starter #24
Yea, it's that little white or Grey looking valve near the master cylinder. I think we only have one. And it is notorious for being the culprit with these IWE issues.

Ironically, on my 18 King Ranch, I have had zero issues until a recent trip of about 300 miles at 75mph, I suddenly heard a momentary clatter (clicking) from the driver's side wheel well. It only lasted a few seconds and I immediately turned the stereo down and listened closely. A few minutes later it did it again. Just a few seconds.

Nasty sound!

I pulled over in the middle of nowhere and switched to 4A. It never made the sound again.

I ordered 2 of those valves from Amazon.

But unlike you and your willingness to immediately tear into the repair, I am a big fat lazy 4A driver with 2 check valves waiting for me to DO something.



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Both sides hold a solid 22hg with no decrease while the truck is running, an almost immediate drop to 0 when I turn it off, which makes sense I suppose, check valve lets air through one way when I blow through it and it seems to let a very tiny amount of air the other. Small enough that I wasn’t sure if it actually was or not.





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Discussion Starter #25
Yea, it's that little white or Grey looking valve near the master cylinder. I think we only have one. And it is notorious for being the culprit with these IWE issues.

Ironically, on my 18 King Ranch, I have had zero issues until a recent trip of about 300 miles at 75mph, I suddenly heard a momentary clatter (clicking) from the driver's side wheel well. It only lasted a few seconds and I immediately turned the stereo down and listened closely. A few minutes later it did it again. Just a few seconds.

Nasty sound!

I pulled over in the middle of nowhere and switched to 4A. It never made the sound again.

I ordered 2 of those valves from Amazon.

But unlike you and your willingness to immediately tear into the repair, I am a big fat lazy 4A driver with 2 check valves waiting for me to DO something.



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Realized I did that test all wrong and got a vacuum pump and stuck it in the end of the hose that connects to the IWE and couldn’t get any pressure to build at all on either side. On the driver’s side the needle wouldn’t move and on the passenger side it would jump to 5lbs as I was pumping it and then go straight back down. It appears I have a vacuum problem as well as a hub problem since I still get some clicking when I take the hoses off. Good times ahead hahahaha


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Well, I had the same problem in a 2002 Chevy Avalance z71. Same noises and binding sound on turns. For me, it was the transfer case. I managed get around for about a year and it gave out on me about 15 miles from home as I returned from a 1800 plus mile journey. I managed...can't remember how... to get it to one of my mechanics. It's been running fine for a couple of years now. It's about the only major problem I've had on that vehicle. Darn thing just won't drop dead as I really want a new Truck. Haven't had the F150 for a while and mine was not a 4 x 4. Don't know if is your problem but no one charged me to tell me what was wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well, I finally gave up and made an appointment with the dealership, unfortunately the only ones where I live who will work on Ford’s 4wd system, who would have guessed. I made a mistake and didn’t realize I pulled the axle seal on the driver’s side when I changed the cv axle so now I’m leaking oil from the differential and I can’t get the axle off to replace it, also tore the inner boot slightly trying to do that, I’ll be honest I just wrapped it with tape and sprayed flex seal on it for now, I’ll let them change it. I did get it to a point where no front axles we’re engaged when I’m in 2wd so I’m just going to assume I’m the front diff will be good as long as nothing is engaged up front which means there’s no movement anywhere but the wheels, I’ll just be losing oil which I smell after every time I drive anywhere, I’m going to get them to check it for dirt while they have it as well. No clicks or pops or whining while in two wheel drive. The mechanic said it sounds like the IWEs, I just said I’ve changed those, the axles, and checked all the vacuum hoses and everything seems good so if you end up replacing any of that just stick all of it in the bed of the truck so I can return whatever gets replaced, I’m going to try to return the axle, they like me at advance so I may get lucky. I’m tired, beat up, and bleeding. As soon as I find out what the deal is I’ll update the thread so anyone in the future who is searching the inter webs might find an answer.


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You have a great attitude.

Refreshing, considering the modern miffed attitude of the social media world.



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Discussion Starter #29
Well I said I’d come back and let everyone know how everything turned out. After replacing both cv axles twice, the actuators, and wheel hubs, and checking vacuum pressures for leaks and making sure check valves were operational, I finally caved and took it to my local dealer. They claimed the drivers side was in real bad shape, replaced it, charged me $700 and said the passenger side was still clicking a little but it was nothing to be worried about. A day or so later I finally got the chance to try it (I didn’t want to try it on pavement) and it sounded exactly the same to me. So I dug a little more and discovered that the aftermarket cv axles have a shorter bar than the OEM axles.

(Rusty is aftermarket, shiny is OEM).
Now had I said that my truck was leveled to begin with you fine people may have already answered this for me but I didn’t think it had a ton to do with it because everything was fine before. Turns out it had everything to do with it, as the shorter bar caused a sharper than usual angle on a leveled truck. In the end, Motorcraft cv axles fixed everything. So I spent way more money than I needed to during this process that all started with replacing the strut tower assemblies and upper control arms. On the bright side, everything but the tie rod ends, the knuckle, and the lower control arm is all new so I should be in good shape for a while up front hahaha.


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Wish every member was as forthcoming!

I don't even know you but I know I can trust you. Lol

Sorry for the expen$ive route to fix it, but glad it's fixed.

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True!!

Good to know that there is a difference in the aftermarket and actual OEM versions. What brand were the aftermarket so people know which to stay away from for sure?
By looking at the pics, I would have thought that the center bar was probably the same length and the boots were just snapped in a different place.
 

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True!

@chronicscribe - Did you try and return the axles? I would, try and recoup some of the money. I mean they aren't OEM quality and most manufacturers say they meet/exceed OEM.


Sorry for the somewhat double post. I left the page without clicking post then hit the back button and it posted my original message.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
True!

@chronicscribe - Did you try and return the axles? I would, try and recoup some of the money. I mean they aren't OEM quality and most manufacturers say they meet/exceed OEM.


Sorry for the somewhat double post. I left the page without clicking post then hit the back button and it posted my original message.
You’re good my friend, I was outside advance auto’s 45 day return policy so I wasn’t able to return them unfortunately, I can only blame myself for taking so long to get the job done really. They did tell me they could exchange them for new ones so I may do that and sell them lol. The brand was Carquest. The boot covering more of the bar was my assumption as well but the clicking is completely gone. I could be wrong about the bar length deal, but when I looked under the truck while it was on the ground with the aftermarket cv axles they were basically at a 45° angle, these aren’t anywhere near as severe. Who knows, could actually be a quality thing lol I just know it’s fixed and Motorcraft parts are what did the job. I started trying to figure this out on October 6th (I know the date because it’s my birthday and I took vacation time for this project lol) and it took me all the way to November 18th to finally figure it out. I bought them ahead of time to prepare so I was just barely outside 45 days but I understand policies and such so I didn’t raise a fuss, it’s not the employee’s or Advance’s fault lol it’s really self inflicted because I wanted my truck leveled with oversized tires
\(“)/


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Discussion Starter #34
Wish every member was as forthcoming!

I don't even know you but I know I can trust you. Lol

Sorry for the expen$ive route to fix it, but glad it's fixed.

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Thanks my friend! Thanks for all the direction and advice through the process as well!


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