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Great video man. Now you know why the shops pull the cab. Seems easier for a full engine replacement. Prob less hours involved.
 

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Fxxx that. What a nightmare.

I liked hearing Baby Blue in the background and I started laughing when you said "we'll be getting drunk"

On top of all that, redoing the injectors. I figured inject swap would be easy, I no longer have a desire to upgrade them.

Still no evidence of what caused the failure...I will say this, I am really happy about the upgrades I did and only run Amsoil too.

What year did the upgrade turbo lines hit you mention? Are the screens serviceable after so many miles?
 

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ojz, I too say your video was great. Pity you didn't take MORE videos, such as the difficulty in installing the injectors. You could have made an entire series of great "DIY" videos.

Thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Fxxx that. What a nightmare.

I liked hearing Baby Blue in the background and I started laughing when you said "we'll be getting drunk"

On top of all that, redoing the injectors. I figured inject swap would be easy, I no longer have a desire to upgrade them.

Still no evidence of what caused the failure...I will say this, I am really happy about the upgrades I did and only run Amsoil too.

What year did the upgrade turbo lines hit you mention? Are the screens serviceable after so many miles?
The screens are in the block: they thread in and the line seals with a flange and an o-ring. I see zero need to replace them if you run a good filter and haven't had problems. My guess is that Ford added extra capacity for the screens to save turbos in the event of a failure. Fortunately, mine happened at low RPMs, so small pieces didn't have a chance to get into the bearings.

I don't recommend tampering with the injectors after having them on and off so many times.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I would have loved to, but I truly think the Helm manual is a fine resource that covers it adequately. A month subscription is only $20 - very much worth it. It shows an interactive drawing that is more useful than a video.

Thanks for the praise. I hope you guys don't have to deal with it. Drill your intercooler and keep the oil clean and you shouldn't have any problems.
 

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Please enjoy this video showing removal and installation of the engine:
Most excellent work ojz!!! Many thanks for putting this together for us!

What is the consensus on both a drilled intercooler and a catch can? I DO NOT want to do this myself one day haha
 

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I constantly see mentioned drill a hole in intercooler. Can someone please direct me to a walkthrough of where to do and etc. It definitely seems I should do it. Are there any cons about do so?

Steve
2014 Ford F150 XLT Crew Cab EB
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Drill a small hole in the intercooler at a low point. Moisture can condense and cause the dreaded "shudder" upon hard acceleration. When the turbo builds pressure, the water is ejected from the hole instead of back through your intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
That's the goal. Liquid is the enemy of the air intake. You don't stop it, you hope it doesn't plug! Edit: perhaps you're thinking this is a one time thing. This happens continuously. Think about the moisture condensing on your toilet tank on a humid day. The cool surface causes the humidity to condense, same as the intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
ahh so intercooler is air duh so air mass will be replaced for the liquiids mass being drained
Am I right?

Steve
2014 Ford F150 XLT Crew Cab EB
The volumetric flow rate through the cooler versus the hole pretty much makes the hole negligible. The water pools, you kick the turbos up on WOT, the velocity through the cooler carries the water through your intake valves. The hole eliminates the water when it forms. Use a small bit, say 1/16". Or, if you've never had the shudder, don't do anything at all. Just don't drive with the shudder. Edit: You have a 2014, so the problem may be fixed with factory tuning, (maybe) the turbos, and a different intercooler. This is basically a steam trap.
 

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ahh so intercooler is air duh so air mass will be replaced for the liquiids mass being drained
Am I right?

Steve
2014 Ford F150 XLT Crew Cab EB
Not quite following, but basically you always want air leaking out of the hole as it will keep forcing the liquid out. It makes a really tiny boost leak, but not enough to affect anything. thats why most of us used a 1/16th drill bit. Plus the engine runs off of MAP sensors so the air is not actually metered.

Check out "Pee hole in my CAC" thread. should answer a lot of questions.

EDIT: ojz beat me to it
 

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The volumetric flow rate through the cooler versus the hole pretty much makes the hole negligible. The water pools, you kick the turbos up on WOT, the velocity through the cooler carries the water through your intake valves. The hole eliminates the water when it forms. Use a small bit, say 1/16". Or, if you've never had the shudder, don't do anything at all. Just don't drive with the shudder. Edit: You have a 2014, so the problem may be fixed with factory tuning, (maybe) the turbos, and a different intercooler. This is basically a steam trap.
Thanks ojz and vozaday I haven't experienced the shudder yet(I don't think) but I wanted to prepare and try to prevent issues. But from my understanding from this forum the 2014 is improved so I just leave it as is? Am i Correct?

Steve
2014 Ford F150 XLT Crew Cab EB
 

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Please enjoy this video showing removal and installation of the engine:
In the video, what is that ironing board style thing you presumably use for leaning on the engine? I remember seeing these when I was younger and never saw the need - now I'm older, and they seem like a good idea LOL
 

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Thanks ojz and vozaday I haven't experienced the shudder yet(I don't think) but I wanted to prepare and try to prevent issues. But from my understanding from this forum the 2014 is improved so I just leave it as is? Am i Correct?

Steve
2014 Ford F150 XLT Crew Cab EB
Yes it is improved, but not solved. All it takes is once.
 
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