Well 2 mornings i started my truck and i herd a noise kinda like the dreaded timing chain noise but more like a dry start it was there and gone, then it happened again yesterday morning so i figured id change my oil before i jumped to conclusions and thinking i was screwed and had to do the whole timing change job. So this morning i started the truck and the dry start tick was gone thank god lol now i bought my truck second hand with 123k on it, it has 134k almost on it now and i got to thinking about starting to use 5w40 full syn once its time for another change due to engine mileage and with the turbos being partially oil cooled and under constant heat figured it would help with thermal breakdown of the oil and fuel dilution. I live in south florida so is the any reason why i should not use 5w40 in my little ecoboost?
Floridawombat
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Considering 5w40 oil
Since fresh oil is getting credit for the improvement then I think it's reasonable to suggest that the previous oil was diluted and/or below the viscosity of the fresh oil?
So based on that criteria independently from other considerations, I would be curious of the results if you switch next time.
Keep a record of how many miles you have on the fresh oil until the symptom returns. Then try your theory out and see if you get longer life out of the x-40?
So based on that criteria independently from other considerations, I would be curious of the results if you switch next time.
Keep a record of how many miles you have on the fresh oil until the symptom returns. Then try your theory out and see if you get longer life out of the x-40?
If you REALLY want to switch weights…. I would point you towards the 0w40. 5w40 oils are pretty bad IMO.
Calling it "high mileage" might qualify as a gimmick, but I don't think the oil itself is affected by the label.
It's kinda of like "Sport Mode" label for what is really just a different shift strategy, regardless of whether you prefer the strategy or not.
It's kinda of like "Sport Mode" label for what is really just a different shift strategy, regardless of whether you prefer the strategy or not.
If we wanted to get technical, the base stocks are very subpar compared to 0w40s. To put it simple, 0w40s are specially formulated. Edge 0w40 has better properties than Edge 5w40.
There are a couple posts on BITOG that go far more in-depth.
For our platform - 0W40 is the only other weight I would recommend.
There are a couple posts on BITOG that go far more in-depth.
For our platform - 0W40 is the only other weight I would recommend.
You can just look for whatever properties that you liked about the Castrol 5-40 except look for those properties (or better) in 0-40?
There's an impressive selection of premium oil in the 0-40 segment. And it's a popular segment with high performance cars. Especially European.
There's an impressive selection of premium oil in the 0-40 segment. And it's a popular segment with high performance cars. Especially European.
Shell has a $25 gift card deal right now if you buy two 5 quart jugs of Pennzoil Platinum. I just picked up 4 x 5 quart jugs of Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 for ~$85 at Walmart and will be getting $50 back in gift cards. 20 quarts for $35, cant beat that.
0-40 VS 5-30 can be a very complicated comparison. And in some ways confusing relative to our perception of thin VS thick.
For coldstarts, especially in cold weather, some would argue that 0-40 will flow better, which might be what you are desiring?
Full disclosure: I use 0-40. But not because of my often confused understanding of modern oil and multi-viscosity properties, but rather both specific advice from folks I trust, as well as the overall acceptance of 0-40 in high performance motors from many makes.
I do NOT use 0-40 in an effort to get longer life out of the oil. In fact I have to fight the desire to drain oil at irrationally low mileage.
For coldstarts, especially in cold weather, some would argue that 0-40 will flow better, which might be what you are desiring?
Full disclosure: I use 0-40. But not because of my often confused understanding of modern oil and multi-viscosity properties, but rather both specific advice from folks I trust, as well as the overall acceptance of 0-40 in high performance motors from many makes.
I do NOT use 0-40 in an effort to get longer life out of the oil. In fact I have to fight the desire to drain oil at irrationally low mileage.
I just put 15W-40 Mobil1 Delvac 1300 in my 22RE 4Runner. Stuff was like molasses going in and lowered the idle speed
Been running Mobil 1 euro 0w40 in my eco for over 70k tuned miles and she purs like a kitten and no noises on start up either.
I have run edge 0w40 in my F150s since 2011. My 2009 5.4 3V loved it and so does my 2016 3.5 eco.
Looking for "Euro" spec'd oils has one advantage, a HTHS (Hi-Temp Hi-Shear Viscosity @ 150 C 1x10(6) sec(-1), mPa.s, ASTM D4683) test that specifies it stays above 3.5. What does that mean? It means when the oil is hitting cylinder walls, turbos and other areas that are higher than the average engine temperature, it's viscosity remains thick enough to keep metal to metal contact from happening. While many oils use additives to deal with this "boundary" lubrication area, but keeping parts spaced makes more sense.
Porsche A40, Mercedes 229.5, BMW LL-01 and VW 502 00/505 00 specifications are far more stringent than API SN, SN+ or even SP. The SP timing chain wear and LSPI are very rudimentary and even an SN euro oil has them beat by miles.
Castrol edge 0w40, Mobil FS 0w40, Mobil ESP X3 0w40, PP Euro 0w40 are all great choices and will protect your engine very well. As stated, 5k mile oil changes are still a great idea to reduce the soot load that builds up with Direct Injection engines, which also helps timing chains live longer lives. 5w40 oils can be very good too, but often contain less type IV or type V synthetic base stocks, which then require more viscosity modifiers to achieve the 0-40 cold/hot spread. VMs tend to shear and leave more deposits on valves in DI engines. Looking at an MSDS of the oil will often tell you how much type IV base oils are in the mix. Edge is between 20-50% (trade secrets mean they always show a spread), Mobil FS is between 10-20% and ESP X3 is 5-10%. Whether this matters is up for debate when they all meet the same specifications, but type IV PAO is more stable than hydrocracked type III.
There are plenty of great 5w30 and 0w30 Euro oils out there that also have HTHS numbers above 3.5 if you want to go that way.
Edit: There are plenty of boutique oils out there that use even higher type IV and V quantities, but generally cost significantly more. Amsoil Signature Series and Redline oils are some of those. Small oil blenders don't always apply to test their oils to manufacturers standards and simply state they "meet or exceed" some specifications. The oils above (and Valvoline, Havoline, etc Euro oils) are often available on sale and are economical for the average user.
Looking for "Euro" spec'd oils has one advantage, a HTHS (Hi-Temp Hi-Shear Viscosity @ 150 C 1x10(6) sec(-1), mPa.s, ASTM D4683) test that specifies it stays above 3.5. What does that mean? It means when the oil is hitting cylinder walls, turbos and other areas that are higher than the average engine temperature, it's viscosity remains thick enough to keep metal to metal contact from happening. While many oils use additives to deal with this "boundary" lubrication area, but keeping parts spaced makes more sense.
Porsche A40, Mercedes 229.5, BMW LL-01 and VW 502 00/505 00 specifications are far more stringent than API SN, SN+ or even SP. The SP timing chain wear and LSPI are very rudimentary and even an SN euro oil has them beat by miles.
Castrol edge 0w40, Mobil FS 0w40, Mobil ESP X3 0w40, PP Euro 0w40 are all great choices and will protect your engine very well. As stated, 5k mile oil changes are still a great idea to reduce the soot load that builds up with Direct Injection engines, which also helps timing chains live longer lives. 5w40 oils can be very good too, but often contain less type IV or type V synthetic base stocks, which then require more viscosity modifiers to achieve the 0-40 cold/hot spread. VMs tend to shear and leave more deposits on valves in DI engines. Looking at an MSDS of the oil will often tell you how much type IV base oils are in the mix. Edge is between 20-50% (trade secrets mean they always show a spread), Mobil FS is between 10-20% and ESP X3 is 5-10%. Whether this matters is up for debate when they all meet the same specifications, but type IV PAO is more stable than hydrocracked type III.
There are plenty of great 5w30 and 0w30 Euro oils out there that also have HTHS numbers above 3.5 if you want to go that way.
Edit: There are plenty of boutique oils out there that use even higher type IV and V quantities, but generally cost significantly more. Amsoil Signature Series and Redline oils are some of those. Small oil blenders don't always apply to test their oils to manufacturers standards and simply state they "meet or exceed" some specifications. The oils above (and Valvoline, Havoline, etc Euro oils) are often available on sale and are economical for the average user.
Alot of info there and detailed to thank you, i was confused about some specs and what they mean. I know the big one is sn plus cause of the lspi issue but it seems that the high end euro cars have been using direct injection for awhile and what ever oils they use arent snplus rated it seems like so i shouldnt worry about that rating at all?
Came upon this thread rather late. I've been using 5w-40 in my truck for over two years. Specific oil is Chevron Delo XPS 5w-40. Engine runs extremely smooth with this oil vs the 5w-30 I had been running. The Chevron XPS 5w-40 is a mixed fleet oil, suitable for gasoline and diesel engines, AND is SN+ rated so it helps to mitigate LSPI. I read the posts about 0w-40 supposedly being formulated to fight LSPI, but I've not read that, nor seen it specified (meeting API SN+ or SP) on bottles of it; even on 0w-40 oils that meet the latest Porsche spec. If it is true, I'd love to use it as the Chevron XPS is getting difficult to source.
I recently sourced some Penzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 that meets API spec SP, which I will move to next since I can't seem to find the Chevron oil. BTW although I'm now living in Fl, I ran the Chevron in North Carolina, and had no issues starting even in 20 degree temperatures.
I recently sourced some Penzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 that meets API spec SP, which I will move to next since I can't seem to find the Chevron oil. BTW although I'm now living in Fl, I ran the Chevron in North Carolina, and had no issues starting even in 20 degree temperatures.
Well from the research ive done about the 0w40 oils protecting lspi they have different specs comparied to the american spec oils that do the same thing for it and im sure someone will chime in on it more or correct me due to the minimal knowledge i have on oils in general but i will be making the switch to 0w40 or even 5w40 on my next change and never look back
Just did a little more research on this subject. The Latest Porsche spec that DOES address LSPI is Porsche spec C40. The older non-LSPI spec is A40. In addition to the Penzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 that I mentioned earlier, Mobil 1 0W-40 ESP (not the extended performance variant which is EP), also meets the Porsche C40 spec, AND it also meets API SP, which is clearly written on bottles of it. Mobil 1 ESP oils are also available in 5W-30, 5W-20, and 0W-20 as well. Regardless of viscosity tho, Mobil 1 ESP oils are pricey when you can find them, however they are superb oils. Last time I tried to source Mobil 1 ESP motor oil (for another vehicle) on line, the best price I could find was almost $13.00/quart. I haven't checked recently.
So what is it about Mobile One ESP that makes it cost so much more?
Is it additives?
Is it cost of manufacturing?
Or is it because it's niche and thus the market will bear it?
I mean Mobile One is the standard for reputation for quality, combined with mastering the price point for "synthetic".
It's even the official Porsche factory fill.
Is it additives?
Is it cost of manufacturing?
Or is it because it's niche and thus the market will bear it?
I mean Mobile One is the standard for reputation for quality, combined with mastering the price point for "synthetic".
It's even the official Porsche factory fill.
I've used 5w40 Rotella, but usually with the direct injection, the oil is diluted from the fuel blow-by, therefore, I usually use a 10w30 or 10w40. Using a high mileage oil may also help.
Mobil 1 ESP stands for "emissions system protection". What that means as it pertains to it's formulation is unknown. I do know Mobil 1 ESP oils are formulated to meet the latest Land Rover/Range Rover oil specification. Land Rover gas vehicles strongly recommend a Castrol Professional oil be used. That oil is specially filtered among other things and has the "emissions system protection" verbiage on bottles of it. Mobil 1 ESP oils do meet the Land Rover spec ( I know, as our other vehicle is a Range Rover Velar with the supercharged Ford (of Europe) V8. For that vehicles last two oil changes I've used regular Mobil 1, rather than spend the $$ for Mobil's ESP oils, or equally as much for the Castrol Professional oil (which is only available at a Land Rover dealer), with no detectable adverse effects.
In any event, Mobil has priced their ESP oils insanely high; more than any flavor of Amsoil, or Redline, and I've no idea what percentage of cat 4 base oil (synthetic) Mobile uses in them versus their regular line of synthetic oils, which are heavily cat 3 (highly processed dino oil).
In any event, Mobil has priced their ESP oils insanely high; more than any flavor of Amsoil, or Redline, and I've no idea what percentage of cat 4 base oil (synthetic) Mobile uses in them versus their regular line of synthetic oils, which are heavily cat 3 (highly processed dino oil).
I didn't find the Mobile ESP as being priced higher than the so called boutique oils, but definitely in the vicinity.
I was just curious if it's more expensive to make pure synthetic oil than it is to make synthetic oil that's not synthetic literally, and if so, then the price of Mobile ESP is just a reflection of the co$t of manufacturing.
I was just curious if it's more expensive to make pure synthetic oil than it is to make synthetic oil that's not synthetic literally, and if so, then the price of Mobile ESP is just a reflection of the co$t of manufacturing.
How come they spec multiple grades for the same engine? And how come they use different oils when they build up an engine at a race shop?
Porsche's official oil list, which requires resubmition by any oil manufacturer that wants to be on the list every 2 years, is an interesting thing to ponder as you look at it.
First, it's the manufacturer telling the customer that these oils are approved for your car.
(there are a LOT of brands and various part#'s of those brands)
Second, not every Porsche car has exactly the same motor, although the Flat6 architecture is shared across various varients in size and features. (port injection, direct injection, 3 chain valve train, 5 chain valve train, variable valve timing, Turbo charged, etc)
Third, Although each motor specifically has different viscosity ranges approved for that motor, any oil on the list that fits those approved viscositys is OK to use.
My point really being is that Porsche isn't building anything magically different than most motors, when it comes to lubrication needs, but they are providing a lot more information to the customer than saying "use Mobile one 5W-30 part# xxx only"
Instead they are admitting that there are a lot of choices for the consumer and that they only care that the oil meet certain specifications, of which allows choices even in viscosity for some brands. They also point out that the climate where you live, the kind of use you intend for the motor,..... differentiates which viscosity choices you should consider.
Ford?
Use Motorcraft 5W-20 in your 3.5 Ecoboost
Oops, we MEANT 5W-30 Motorcraft
I'm fine with that, of course. I just don't believe it means what a lot of folks think it means.
It DOES mean Ford doesn't want to even open the door to discuss oil viscosity choices officially.
First, it's the manufacturer telling the customer that these oils are approved for your car.
(there are a LOT of brands and various part#'s of those brands)
Second, not every Porsche car has exactly the same motor, although the Flat6 architecture is shared across various varients in size and features. (port injection, direct injection, 3 chain valve train, 5 chain valve train, variable valve timing, Turbo charged, etc)
Third, Although each motor specifically has different viscosity ranges approved for that motor, any oil on the list that fits those approved viscositys is OK to use.
My point really being is that Porsche isn't building anything magically different than most motors, when it comes to lubrication needs, but they are providing a lot more information to the customer than saying "use Mobile one 5W-30 part# xxx only"
Instead they are admitting that there are a lot of choices for the consumer and that they only care that the oil meet certain specifications, of which allows choices even in viscosity for some brands. They also point out that the climate where you live, the kind of use you intend for the motor,..... differentiates which viscosity choices you should consider.
Ford?
Use Motorcraft 5W-20 in your 3.5 Ecoboost
Oops, we MEANT 5W-30 Motorcraft
I'm fine with that, of course. I just don't believe it means what a lot of folks think it means.
It DOES mean Ford doesn't want to even open the door to discuss oil viscosity choices officially.
Most cordial oil thread of all time!
I buy my oil at the parts store but get them to match Walmarts price [emoji6]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I buy my oil at the parts store but get them to match Walmarts price [emoji6]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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