Well 2 mornings i started my truck and i herd a noise kinda like the dreaded timing chain noise but more like a dry start it was there and gone, then it happened again yesterday morning so i figured id change my oil before i jumped to conclusions and thinking i was screwed and had to do the whole timing change job. So this morning i started the truck and the dry start tick was gone thank god lol now i bought my truck second hand with 123k on it, it has 134k almost on it now and i got to thinking about starting to use 5w40 full syn once its time for another change due to engine mileage and with the turbos being partially oil cooled and under constant heat figured it would help with thermal breakdown of the oil and fuel dilution. I live in south florida so is the any reason why i should not use 5w40 in my little ecoboost?
Considering 5w40 oil
Floridawombat
- Status
21 - 40 of 107 Posts
Joined
·
7,224 Posts
Actually, the good high mileage oils have additives that condition seals and can swell some gasket materials and cause all the above to seal better and give longer life. I actually had very good results using high mileage oils in my Ranger 3.slow.
Joined
·
3,153 Posts
If you're picky about maintenance, change your oil every 3000 miles. Changing it more often is better than using thicker oil IMO. If the clacking is there on a fresh oil change, then it's clearly worn and heading that direction regardless of what you put in it.
Well the noise is gone, i figured 40 weight oil would be better with thermal break down since the turbos are oil cooled also
0-40 VS 5-30 can be a very complicated comparison. And in some ways confusing relative to our perception of thin VS thick.
For coldstarts, especially in cold weather, some would argue that 0-40 will flow better, which might be what you are desiring?
Full disclosure: I use 0-40. But not because of my often confused understanding of modern oil and multi-viscosity properties, but rather both specific advice from folks I trust, as well as the overall acceptance of 0-40 in high performance motors from many makes.
I do NOT use 0-40 in an effort to get longer life out of the oil. In fact I have to fight the desire to drain oil at irrationally low mileage.
For coldstarts, especially in cold weather, some would argue that 0-40 will flow better, which might be what you are desiring?
Full disclosure: I use 0-40. But not because of my often confused understanding of modern oil and multi-viscosity properties, but rather both specific advice from folks I trust, as well as the overall acceptance of 0-40 in high performance motors from many makes.
I do NOT use 0-40 in an effort to get longer life out of the oil. In fact I have to fight the desire to drain oil at irrationally low mileage.
Joined
·
12,418 Posts
I think high mileage oils are also usually a little thicker than their non-high mileage counter parts. This helps them quiet older engines that might clack and tick more.
Beats putting in lucas oil stabilizer lolI just put 15W-40 Mobil1 Delvac 1300 in my 22RE 4Runner. Stuff was like molasses going in and lowered the idle speed
Joined
·
731 Posts
I have run edge 0w40 in my F150s since 2011. My 2009 5.4 3V loved it and so does my 2016 3.5 eco.
Looking for "Euro" spec'd oils has one advantage, a HTHS (Hi-Temp Hi-Shear Viscosity @ 150 C 1x10(6) sec(-1), mPa.s, ASTM D4683) test that specifies it stays above 3.5. What does that mean? It means when the oil is hitting cylinder walls, turbos and other areas that are higher than the average engine temperature, it's viscosity remains thick enough to keep metal to metal contact from happening. While many oils use additives to deal with this "boundary" lubrication area, but keeping parts spaced makes more sense.
Porsche A40, Mercedes 229.5, BMW LL-01 and VW 502 00/505 00 specifications are far more stringent than API SN, SN+ or even SP. The SP timing chain wear and LSPI are very rudimentary and even an SN euro oil has them beat by miles.
Castrol edge 0w40, Mobil FS 0w40, Mobil ESP X3 0w40, PP Euro 0w40 are all great choices and will protect your engine very well. As stated, 5k mile oil changes are still a great idea to reduce the soot load that builds up with Direct Injection engines, which also helps timing chains live longer lives. 5w40 oils can be very good too, but often contain less type IV or type V synthetic base stocks, which then require more viscosity modifiers to achieve the 0-40 cold/hot spread. VMs tend to shear and leave more deposits on valves in DI engines. Looking at an MSDS of the oil will often tell you how much type IV base oils are in the mix. Edge is between 20-50% (trade secrets mean they always show a spread), Mobil FS is between 10-20% and ESP X3 is 5-10%. Whether this matters is up for debate when they all meet the same specifications, but type IV PAO is more stable than hydrocracked type III.
There are plenty of great 5w30 and 0w30 Euro oils out there that also have HTHS numbers above 3.5 if you want to go that way.
Edit: There are plenty of boutique oils out there that use even higher type IV and V quantities, but generally cost significantly more. Amsoil Signature Series and Redline oils are some of those. Small oil blenders don't always apply to test their oils to manufacturers standards and simply state they "meet or exceed" some specifications. The oils above (and Valvoline, Havoline, etc Euro oils) are often available on sale and are economical for the average user.
Looking for "Euro" spec'd oils has one advantage, a HTHS (Hi-Temp Hi-Shear Viscosity @ 150 C 1x10(6) sec(-1), mPa.s, ASTM D4683) test that specifies it stays above 3.5. What does that mean? It means when the oil is hitting cylinder walls, turbos and other areas that are higher than the average engine temperature, it's viscosity remains thick enough to keep metal to metal contact from happening. While many oils use additives to deal with this "boundary" lubrication area, but keeping parts spaced makes more sense.
Porsche A40, Mercedes 229.5, BMW LL-01 and VW 502 00/505 00 specifications are far more stringent than API SN, SN+ or even SP. The SP timing chain wear and LSPI are very rudimentary and even an SN euro oil has them beat by miles.
Castrol edge 0w40, Mobil FS 0w40, Mobil ESP X3 0w40, PP Euro 0w40 are all great choices and will protect your engine very well. As stated, 5k mile oil changes are still a great idea to reduce the soot load that builds up with Direct Injection engines, which also helps timing chains live longer lives. 5w40 oils can be very good too, but often contain less type IV or type V synthetic base stocks, which then require more viscosity modifiers to achieve the 0-40 cold/hot spread. VMs tend to shear and leave more deposits on valves in DI engines. Looking at an MSDS of the oil will often tell you how much type IV base oils are in the mix. Edge is between 20-50% (trade secrets mean they always show a spread), Mobil FS is between 10-20% and ESP X3 is 5-10%. Whether this matters is up for debate when they all meet the same specifications, but type IV PAO is more stable than hydrocracked type III.
There are plenty of great 5w30 and 0w30 Euro oils out there that also have HTHS numbers above 3.5 if you want to go that way.
Edit: There are plenty of boutique oils out there that use even higher type IV and V quantities, but generally cost significantly more. Amsoil Signature Series and Redline oils are some of those. Small oil blenders don't always apply to test their oils to manufacturers standards and simply state they "meet or exceed" some specifications. The oils above (and Valvoline, Havoline, etc Euro oils) are often available on sale and are economical for the average user.
Alot of info there and detailed to thank you, i was confused about some specs and what they mean. I know the big one is sn plus cause of the lspi issue but it seems that the high end euro cars have been using direct injection for awhile and what ever oils they use arent snplus rated it seems like so i shouldnt worry about that rating at all?
Amsoil has a A40 Porsche 0-40 that is on the official Porsche approved oil list.
Obviously I wouldn't know what was required for Amsoil to do to get on that list, but that oil made it.
Ironically, the Signature Series, although it is stated as meeting the A40 spec, isn't on the list.
So for the Porsche I use the one that made the "official" list and it's a few buck$ less expensive per quart.
Go figure.
Interesting post. Thanks for sharing.
I dropped the sump plate today and here's what a 17 year old motor with A40 spec oil looks like
Not a spec of glitter or plastic-sand/chip or..... Well anything. Filter was spotless. Filter housing was perfect.
It's a little scary to look at for the first time because you own it at that point and if the previous owner didn't do it right......
What weight oil are you using in that engine? And whats the difference between the 0w40 vs 5w40? I think someone on this post said that 0w40 is more of a pure synthetic or more of a pure base stock?Amsoil has a A40 Porsche 0-40 that is on the official Porsche approved oil list.
Obviously I wouldn't know what was required for Amsoil to do to get on that list, but that oil made it.
Ironically, the Signature Series, although it is stated as meeting the A40 spec, isn't on the list.
So for the Porsche I use the one that made the "official" list and it's a few buck$ less expensive per quart.
Go figure.
Interesting post. Thanks for sharing.
I dropped the sump plate today and here's what a 17 year old motor with A40 spec oil looks like
View attachment 177279
View attachment 177280
View attachment 177281
Not a spec of glitter or plastic-sand/chip or..... Well anything. Filter was spotless. Filter housing was perfect.
It's a little scary to look at for the first time because you own it at that point and if the previous owner didn't do it right......
0w oils supposedly come from a better base stock and 0w40 will flow better at colder temps than 5w-40 oils.
Joined
·
731 Posts
SN+ has been eclipsed by SP now. While the LSPI tests are useful for API rated oils, the 0w40 euro oil has a composition that quenches LSPI events as well. The only time I would shy away from the A40, MB 229.5 specification is if your engine burns a lot of oil. They don't have a limit below 1% on sulfated ash content, which could lead to greater buildup on intake valves if you burn oil. Truly not a great issue for most of us. Use it with confidence.
As far as Amsoil goes, I'm completely neutral. If I could easily get it in Canada for the price of other sale priced oils at Canadian Tire, I would use it too. While signature series might be great for extended intervals, it doesn't reduce the soot load or my need to play with my truck every 5-6k kms. I wish I could get edge 0w40 here in 5 liter jugs like we used to. They are simply not available at sale prices any more and $70+ is not viable.
Joined
·
7,224 Posts
All the oil experts. Mindblowing
Hey, this has been a well focus 0-40/5-40 thread that has managed to not escalate. Be nice. LolAll the oil experts. Mindblowing
😂
You should know that Arkansas is like my forum brother. He is a HOOT and living the good life. At least I think so and I admire in so many ways.
But he works the night shift. So...... Let's just say that he's a little jekyll/Hyde depending on if it's a 7PM post or a 4AM post. 🤣🤣🤣
So I was just hoping he'd read this thread while the sun is still shining. Lol
Yeah i stream threw alot of posts and see him alot lol he always has something to say 😂
Ummmm, I'm the biggest blabbermouth around these parts, so I kinda wanna duck at that one. 😳🤣
21 - 40 of 107 Posts
- Status
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
