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Discussion Starter #1
2014 with 78,000 miles. I've never had any coolant leaks before but on my big western trip with several 6 to 11 hour drives at highway speeds (75 to 90, depending on the state and speed limit), I noticed my coolant was a few inches below the low mark on the reservoir. I looked down under the truck and noticed there were some drips from the front of that cover you have to partially remove to get to the oil drain plug. The drips are on the driver side. Today when I got home I was a little low again and I removed that cover to change my oil. I saw orange drops on the spot where the front drive shaft connects and a few other places in that area. It looks and smells like coolant.

I assume during my trip the turbo got really hot and probably caused something (a tube or something else) to get partially damaged and that's what is causing my leak? Doesn't seem to be leaking when sitting there with the engine off. It's all on the drive side and it appears to mostly be below the driver side turbo area. If that's what the problem is, what usually fails and what's the ballpark cost to repair? I'll probably let the dealer do it.

Just so you know, my coolant reservoir is NOT leaking. The tube from that (under it, pointing towards the engine) is completely dry.
 

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Connector fails. Plastic quick connect. Soon the passenger side will.


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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. I drove it back and forth to work today which is about 70 miles round trip. No leak and coolant is still the same level. I think it only leaked after a very long hours long drive. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe have the dealer replace both sides (the connection that is the likely cause) when I have some more time and extra money. For now it seems ok.
 

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Mine leaked sitting still mostly, but the finerboard shield caught it all. I took it and the skid plate off and couldn't believe the mess!


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Discussion Starter #6
I got under there today and took a closer look. It does appear to be leaking from one of these connections. This is a photo of the bottom of the turbo, driver's side.

image1.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine leaked sitting still mostly, but the finerboard shield caught it all. I took it and the skid plate off and couldn't believe the mess!
Did you fix it yourself? If so, what was the part and how much? Also, how hard is it to get in there to do it? Any special tools? If you let the dealer do it, how much did they charge?
 

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I think my 2012 had the same leak at drivers side. I had it fixed under extended warranty, which took a really long time at the dealer but probably was sitting most of the time is my guess.

Either way, I wanted to let you know that the leak was seriously killing the overall performance of my truck until it was fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think my 2012 had the same leak at drivers side. I had it fixed under extended warranty, which took a really long time at the dealer but probably was sitting most of the time is my guess.

Either way, I wanted to let you know that the leak was seriously killing the overall performance of my truck until it was fixed.
I dropped mine off this morning. Hopefully it's just a seal and not too expensive...and hopefully I get it back soon. I have some trips coming up later this week and a few weeks from now.
 

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Unbelievable. Dealer finally had a chance to investigate and says they need to replace the tube (s) feeding coolant to the turbo. Intake has to be removed to get to it?...so they say. Estimate is almost $900.
I can't do this one my own and would be afraid if I tried to just replace a seal or something less involved that it wouldn't fix it, so I'm sort of at their mercy. But good lord...$900 for such a simple problem? Seems like Ford would have made the connections replaceable.
 

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Unbelievable. Dealer finally had a chance to investigate and says they need to replace the tube (s) feeding coolant to the turbo. Intake has to be removed to get to it?...so they say. Estimate is almost $900.
I can't do this one my own and would be afraid if I tried to just replace a seal or something less involved that it wouldn't fix it, so I'm sort of at their mercy. But good lord...$900 for such a simple problem? Seems like Ford would have made the connections replaceable.
I'm surprised they are replacing the entire run of coolant lines to the turbos. In my case, and most I have read about on this forum, it is the plastic quick connectors that connect the coolant lines to the turbos that failed and needed to be replaced (but I am not sure if those connectors are on my 2012 while not on your 2014).
 

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My 2014 with 33k miles has a faint coolant smell and the reservoir was a little low. And this was after a 1500 mile trip.
Looks the same




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Gents, I have the same issue but on the passenger side turbo. Luckily, I just passed my warranty:( so I get to do this myself. The parts diagram is pretty vague, I'm assuming that the 4 in/out coolant lines are some combination of items 23-29 but can't really tell. Anyone want to decypher this picture? The leak is on the top line, passenger side turbo and do I need the line or can just the o-ring be replaced (which isn't shown at all). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

turbo.PNG
 

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I'm feeling your guys pain as well. One dealer quoted $1300 to fix the drivers side turbo coolant line that runs to the back of the engine where you can't reach. It is the rubber o ring inside the quick connects that fail. The quick connects on the turbos and on the engine block are of different thread sizes. a 21 MM socket is needed to remove the ones on the engine block.

I attempted to do this myself and got as far as removing the e-clip from the quick connect and pulling the line on the back of the engine. I am unable to get a socket on the quick connect to remove and fix the rubber o-ring inside. Had it towed to another Ford dealership and they tell me because of my 'after-market parts' they don't want to touch it. I even said, just replace the coolant line and quick connect and i'll reassemble the intake manifold, throttle body and CAI in their parking lot. Service manager is saying no to this... What the hell do I do? These quick connections are a mess to deal with.

The only after market parts involved with this are the AFE CAI, AFE Charge Pipe and the water meth kit after the throttle body.
 

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Update; Service manager gave it second thought and allowed me to discuss which actual line it was with the technician. Personally, thats a first for a Ford dealership allowing me to discuss anything with a technician. Service writer called back and quoted 525 to replace that line only and I'll be responsible for putting intake manifold, etc. back together. Whew... Just waiting on parts to be ordered and installed. I double confirmed with the technician which parts are on order and he did me a solid by also ordering new seals for the coolant cross over bar that runs underneath the intake. I'm just crossing my fingers there are no other issues. ETA is end of day tomorrow, lets hope its a good Friday night with the new CR Performance exhaust manifolds / Full Race turbos / 170 Tstat / and new tunes!
 

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Unbelievable. Dealer finally had a chance to investigate and says they need to replace the tube (s) feeding coolant to the turbo. Intake has to be removed to get to it?...so they say. Estimate is almost $900.
I can't do this one my own and would be afraid if I tried to just replace a seal or something less involved that it wouldn't fix it, so I'm sort of at their mercy. But good lord...$900 for such a simple problem? Seems like Ford would have made the connections replaceable.
Same here. I have the Ford ESP full warranty (7 years/75K miles). Since the leak is from the coolant hose it is not covered. The hose is $28, but it takes five hours of labor to get to it. (estimate $900) Bad engineering.
 

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Same here. I have the Ford ESP full warranty (7 years/75K miles). Since the leak is from the coolant hose it is not covered. The hose is $28, but it takes five hours of labor to get to it. (estimate $900) Bad engineering.
Leak is not from hose, per say, but from the quick connect rubber o-ring that is attached to engine block and or turbo. Most people are replacing the OEM setup with AN fittings and braided hoses. Wish I had gone that route. SMH!

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i have same problem now on my 2013 with 90k. it is definetly the fitting with the clip and the black pipe so im assuming the oring. i know it doesnt look easy but i would like to attempt fixing it myself as the stories i hear are dealer charges alot for labor. from someone who has done it, how difficult and did you change fitting or oring and does anyone have the part number. thanks
 
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