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found out the fitting is a6a968c and ordered. i am looking for someone who has changed the fitting on drivers side to answer if i need to use a wrench or socket to remove. also how much coolant will come out, do i put anything on the threads of the fitting and anything on the pipe that seats against oring.
 

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found out the fitting is a6a968c and ordered. i am looking for someone who has changed the fitting on drivers side to answer if i need to use a wrench or socket to remove. also how much coolant will come out, do i put anything on the threads of the fitting and anything on the pipe that seats against oring.
if its the return {upper} a socket will do. its 3/4". you will lose most of your coolant. drain beforehand. there are special tools to get the clip loose on the fitting, which you probably dont have. a small 90 degree pick works just fine.
the threaded part is oring boss, no need for any sealant. but its never a good idea to install threads/ orings dry. just wet the threads/ oring with whatever.
 

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found out the fitting is a6a968c and ordered. i am looking for someone who has changed the fitting on drivers side to answer if i need to use a wrench or socket to remove. also how much coolant will come out, do i put anything on the threads of the fitting and anything on the pipe that seats against oring.
Looked for that part number and I get nothing back. Looks like I have this issue on the pass side of my F150, so I am looking for the same fitting. Anyone have some pics of how they swapped the o-ring/fitting, what it looks like apart?

Edit, I found the part, here is the full part number, BL3Z-6A968-C
 

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Just to clarify, is it possible to get the bulkhead connector off the back of the head/motor without pulling the engine forward? I am going to be fixing an exhaust leak soon and would like to replace both these lines, but just how far I can go depends upon the access to this connector. Also no sealant or tape on the threads?
 

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received my part bc3z-6a96-c for the coolant leak in mail today. no wonder it leaks. it is cheap aluminum. i will be replacing it this weekend hopefully with no problems and will post back.
 

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Your link is for a turbo oil drain fitting on pan. Nothing to do with water.
If you want to throw away the junk jiffy tite stuff, the thread size is 9/16-18. Just typical #6 AN size. You could make it a simple connection.
 

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Something like this.
The turbo side connection is what you would consider oring boss C8806B0A-9B83-45E3-BE95-02B2355908C1.jpeg
the fitting would replace the stock jiffy tite one. The hose end is just a 3/8 pushlock. The block side is more or less the same. But unsure if a bigger thread or not. But same deal. You get the idea.
 

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question on replacement. do i need to drain the coolant system to do this or can i replace with a little mess. also i read this is a push fitting so does mean i dont need to remove the new clip on the fitting but just push the line back in.
 

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question on replacement. do i need to drain the coolant system to do this or can i replace with a little mess. also i read this is a push fitting so does mean i dont need to remove the new clip on the fitting but just push the line back in.
Read post #22.
 

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In all fairness, there is no information regarding kohan25's second question in post #22. I looked because I'd like to know the answer too!
 

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you will need to drain the coolant before you remove the return line from turbocharger.
yes, the jiffy tite style fitting does not need clip removed to install tube onto it. you only need to spread/ remove clip to remove connection. but installation just snap line onto fitting. just lube male end with something. what leaks in the fitting is the oring down inside. never good to install dry.
 

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changed fitting yesterday. took about 2 hours total. it is a p.i.a. as you can only do it with one hand and it cant be a big hand to fit up there. wasnt expecting so much antifreeze out of the pipe when i pulled it out of fitting. everything is fine for now with no leaks and i saved myself $$$. hopefully this is the last of these common problems i have to deal with on this truck.
 

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changed fitting yesterday. took about 2 hours total. it is a p.i.a. as you can only do it with one hand and it cant be a big hand to fit up there. wasnt expecting so much antifreeze out of the pipe when i pulled it out of fitting. everything is fine for now with no leaks and i saved myself $$$. hopefully this is the last of these common problems i have to deal with on this truck.
Did you replace the one on the turbo only, or both the turbo end, and the one on the back of the block? Also, did you replace the coolant pipe as well, or just the end fittings?
 

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i replaced fitting on turbo only as getting to one on block did not look possible. did not change pipe either. been a few days and no leaks so i am happy.
 

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Did you do this with the turbo and downpipe attached? OR did you remove it?
 

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So a Ford ESP wouldn't cover this under warranty is what I read up above? I guess I need to read the fine print.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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i replaced turbo fitting only. after removing clip with one of those cheap curved pointed prick tools i carefully pried the tube out enough and pushed it up so i could fit a 3/4 socket on fitting. i used a crowbar. i wanted to be very careful and not move that pipe too much to possibly damage it or cause the block side to leak. after replacing fitting i carefully pushed tube back down and in with the crowbar and was able to snap it right into fitting. not having to remove the clip on the new fitting makes it alot easier to install.
 
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