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sorry forgot to add, i did not remove anything but the skid plate below to access and used a floor jack and stands to jack up that side enough to manuever my arm up through the opening.
 

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sorry forgot to add, i did not remove anything but the skid plate below to access and used a floor jack and stands to jack up that side enough to manuever my arm up through the opening.
Thank you for your writeups. I just joined this forum today. My 2013 has a coolant leak on the driver side turbo. Ford said it was a "cracked" fitting, so not sure which one it is, just that it is turbo coolant line fitting. It leaks maybe a 3-4" spot in my garage every day, but the fluid level doesn't drop much at all. Of course my extended warranty doesn't cover this crap which will cost $780 to fix.

I do have a jack and some stands, just maybe it's enough? I previously gave myself a 0% chance at fixing this but sounds like you did it without having to remove a bunch of stuff?
 

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After changing my fitting on drivers side awhile back i am happy to report it is still leak free. unfortunately with my luck i knew the passengers side would eventually leak and it is. this one does not look as easy to get to as the starter is in the way. i think i can get to it by removing the starter solonoid but need to look at it more closely. has anyone replaced the passenger side without taking everything apart. i am hoping to do the same thing as drivers side with one hand from underneath.
 

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I had to pull the downpipe, starter, and the AC compressor (took off the bracket and flopped it out of the way, didn't pull the lines) to make room to get the line out so I could change the fittings and line. I tried just the fitting the first time and the line is so rigid that you can't just slide it out and back in. Crap design and I dread the day I see a puddle on the drivers side...
 

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drivers side was a piece of cake (i got lucky). did it with one hand. i saw a video of someone removing the fender well for access. i will see if i can get my hand in far enough and will try that route. seems easier than removing starter. right now leak seems to have stopped or slowed. hopefully will stay like that till winter is over then i will attempt.
 

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JUST did this on my 2013 eb Saturday. I made more work than it should’ve been. I tried following a video all the way up til removing the exhaust and that wasn’t happening. Ended up going from the bottom and doing it one handed like mentioned above. Used a small flathead to pry out the clip and used a socket to remove the connector. You’ll need something to pry the line out as well. Once the line was out, I just moved it up with my hand to get it out of the way with no issues to put the new one in.


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I hope I never come across this problem.... I’m pretty stressed out that my ebov is making a clicking noise every 5 seconds and nobody seems to know what the problem is.. it drives and feels the same as usual.... I’ll just live with it... seems like a minor problem compare to what you guys are going through ��
 

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has any one replaced the fitting on the back of the engine block? I saw it was asked a couple times in this thread but I did not see a direct answer
 

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has any one replaced the fitting on the back of the engine block? I saw it was asked a couple times in this thread but I did not see a direct answer
I dont think it is possible with the engine in.

I am thinking the fitting at turbo has leaks because the turbo gets much hotter than engine. Enough heat cycles and the o ring fails.
 

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Over time all the rubber o rings will dry rot or disintegrate. If your transmission ever needs to be pulled, have them or you replace the jiffy tight connections on the back of the block. Two total.
My personal experience is one was replaced due to leaking when my transmission was rebuilt at 170k miles ish. Around 175k miles I replaced the exhaust manifolds and upgraded the Turbos. All coolant connects were replaced, except the driver side one on back of block because it was unreachable. Buttoned everything up, cranked her up and watched her bleed orange all over the driveway. Long story short, experienced Ford mech. replaced it by removing the intake manifold and few other parts atop the block to get more room for access. Think they charged me just under 400, but I had to put all the other parts back on.

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Over time all the rubber o rings will dry rot or disintegrate. If your transmission ever needs to be pulled, have them or you replace the jiffy tight connections on the back of the block. Two total.
My personal experience is one was replaced due to leaking when my transmission was rebuilt at 170k miles ish. Around 175k miles I replaced the exhaust manifolds and upgraded the Turbos. All coolant connects were replaced, except the driver side one on back of block because it was unreachable. Buttoned everything up, cranked her up and watched her bleed orange all over the driveway. Long story short, experienced Ford mech. replaced it by removing the intake manifold and few other parts atop the block to get more room for access. Think they charged me just under 400, but I had to put all the other parts back on.

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That is what i'm worried about. my drivers side is leaking, and I'm worried if i replace the turbo fitting and irritate the coolant tube, it'll make the block fitting leak. I might take it to the dealer and have them diagnose it and give me a quote just to see what they come back with.
 

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You are correct in that reasoning. Seriously consider NP fittings and braided lines.

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I've got this issue on my 2011... found this video that outlines the process for both sides as going through the fender well and pulling out the turbos without removing the tubes themselves, that way you can replace all the quicktite fittings... he drains the coolant from the radiator first. The poster seems to have a bit of EB experience and even includes details for exhaust manifold and/or stud work if you need that like I do.

 

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Wish that video was available two years ago...

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You are correct in that reasoning. Seriously consider NP fittings and braided lines.

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that would be an easy thing to do, but is there any information on getting to the fittings on the back of the block?

Also if there isn't room to get a socket (as noted earlier) on the fitting on the rear of the block would there be enough room for an NP fitting with a 90 elbow?
 

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Either pull the tranny (not realistic) or remove the intake manifold and the coolant pipe lines, the T tube in the photo not exactly sure of its name. That will give you a little more reach, but it will still be difficult. The way ford wants it!
The other two photos are of the bank of the block with transmission pulled. Passenger's side was leaking and they replaced only it then, doh!
90 NP fitting should work, others have done it.
IMG_20170916_131225600_HDR.jpeg

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thanks for that info - either option doesn't sound like fun. I have experience with the braided lines and fittings, so i'm not scared of using those, I just wasn't sure if it could easily be done. Sounds like it would be a rather intensive job, but hopefully worth it as It shouldn't be an issue once you do it.
 

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Getting ready to do the drivers side on my 14. Leaking at the turbo, 78K. There is a comment about getting to the drivers side fitting on the back of the block.



Aaron Hines
2 months ago
thats a bummer man, did you try to get to the fittings while laying ontop of the motor? i found that is the best way to get to it. i cut a wrench in half and unscrewed connector out of the motor with the line on. i then removed the line and connector together,. off the vehicle. from there take the clip off and install the new connector back on the line and re-install it. the same exhaust is on a 15. and there was a little flex that allowed the down-pipe to be pushed away with a pry bar. it is a crappy job to do. you think ford would make a better way to seal a water line. maybe a like a barbed fitting and hose clamp like any other coolant line in the word!


Thanks for those pics Noblest!
 

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Come to think of it, leaving the coolant line attached is a dam good idea! Problem is not getting a hold of the connector to remove, its with seating it to thread back in.

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