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Wish I would have thought of that when I did mine! Ended up flexing the line (PS return, arguably the "easiest" one) only to have the block side leak on reassembly. I've seen a few mentions of using braided lines but haven't found a "how to" or kit to cut down on the figuring it out and get all the pieces in one order. Anyone got the goods?
 

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Anyone know the torque specs for the jiffy tite connectors on both the turbos and the block? I'm replacing all 6 while I have the turbos and heads out of the truck. TIA
 

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Anyone know the torque specs for the jiffy tite connectors on both the turbos and the block? I'm replacing all 6 while I have the turbos and heads out of the truck. TIA
Are all these connectors the same part? I keep seeing BL3Z-6A968-A then -B and -C variants. Is the -C just the newest revision and works for all?
 

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Are all these connectors the same part? I keep seeing BL3Z-6A968-A then -B and -C variants. Is the -C just the newest revision and works for all?
The letter indicates a different part. There are 3 different connectors associated with coolant lines. One for turbos, one for cylinder heads and one for engine block. The most recent part number for BL3Z-6A968-A is BL3Z-6A968-JD.


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Capture.JPG

So let me see if I have this correct. There are three variants of the connectors depending where they go. Based on the diagram above:
Quantity of 2 (6A968-A) for the BLOCK
Quantity of 2 (6A968-B) for the HEADS
Quantity of 4 (6A968-C) for the TURBOS, two for each.

Sound about right?

Capture.JPG
Regarding the oil pipe side, I see 6L625-A and 6L625-B on the supply side. Are these accessible to be changed with the motor in the truck? Also, on the return side, does that pipe just go into the pan/block without any fitting there? I don't see anything on the return side at the motor other than HR1 which I assume is an "o-ring".
 

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View attachment 155808

So let me see if I have this correct. There are three variants of the connectors depending where they go. Based on the diagram above:
Quantity of 2 (6A968-A) for the BLOCK
Quantity of 2 (6A968-B) for the HEADS
Quantity of 4 (6A968-C) for the TURBOS, two for each.

Sound about right?
Correct.


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6L625-A and 6L625-B are accessible with engine in truck. Removing CAC tubing is a must to get at them and even then I have my wheel well liners removed. If you remove wheel well liner its 10x easier to change them as you can see them. As for return side the pipe connects directly to block and there is an O-ring present.
 

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I have a 2012 F150 Ecoboost Platinum and also have a coolant leak on the turbo side. I am replacing the coolant line fittings on both the turbo and engine side with boss oring fittings attached to AN 90 degree elbows and braided lines. I know the turbo side fitting metrics but does anyone know what size the fitting is that goes into the engine side? Cant seem to find this info anywhere. The Ford parts department was not able to tell me either. All I have been able to gather is the part number which does me no good since I will be using boss fitting which has threads on both sides.
 

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I have a 2012 F150 Ecoboost Platinum and also have a coolant leak on the turbo side. I am replacing the coolant line fittings on both the turbo and engine side with boss oring fittings attached to AN 90 degree elbows and braided lines. I know the turbo side fitting metrics but does anyone know what size the fitting is that goes into the engine side? Cant seem to find this info anywhere. The Ford parts department was not able to tell me either. All I have been able to gather is the part number which does me no good since I will be using boss fitting which has threads on both sides.

would it be worth it to buy the replacement fittings from ford to figure the tread size, then return them?? Once you figure everything out and complete the job with success I'd love to see a write up of the parts used, and how you accessed the fittings on the block.
 

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would it be worth it to buy the replacement fittings from ford to figure the tread size, then return them?? Once you figure everything out and complete the job with success I'd love to see a write up of the parts used, and how you accessed the fittings on the block.
Ditto!

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LH side can be accessed by going over the top of the valve cover and using a mirror to see what you’re doing. You will need a stubby pivoting rachet or similar tool. The TH side can be accessed the same way but it’s way easier to take off wheelhouse liner and come from the side. Unfortunately removing the LH wheelhouse liner won’t help you it’s a much tighter space. May need to remove wiring connectors for CMP sensors and push them out of the way but that’s no big deal. Either way this is one time in a man’s life when smaller hands = winning!


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The thing is I had originally bought all the fittings from Ford and had already returned them after seeing they werent what I needed. I know, that was dumb of me... I could just go purchase them again and figure it out. Most likely have it figured out bt the end of the week and will inform you all of the parts and sizes purchased. Thanks for the replies.
 

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Can someone confirm that the line in this pic is the coolant line. This is on the drivers side turbo, looking through the wheel well. I can clearly see the line and fitting on the back of the turbo from under the truck, but the line I see from the bottom does not have that white piece.
 

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If you are referring to the black hard tubes with the Jiffy-tite connectors then yes they are the coolant tubes.

Here are the part numbers for the Jiffy-tite connectors:

Quantity of 2 (6A968-A) for the BLOCK

Quantity of 2 (6A968-B) for the HEADS

Quantity of 4 (6A968-C) for the TURBOS, two for each.

Torque specs:

Tighten to 18 Nm (159 lb-in)

Tool for Jiffy-tite connectors:

Lisle 22930 3/8" Low Profile Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZW8PDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m.mMCbZ4A7ATW
 

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If you are referring to the black hard tubes with the Jiffy-tite connectors then yes they are the coolant tubes.

Here are the part numbers for the Jiffy-tite connectors:

Quantity of 2 (6A968-A) for the BLOCK

Quantity of 2 (6A968-B) for the HEADS

Quantity of 4 (6A968-C) for the TURBOS, two for each.

Torque specs:

Tighten to 18 Nm (159 lb-in)

Tool for Jiffy-tite connectors:

Lisle 22930 3/8" Low Profile Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZW8PDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m.mMCbZ4A7ATW
Thanks, why would one fitting have that white plastic piece, and the other fitting not have it? does that plastic piece just cover up that spring/clip?

That tool looks like the same thing you would use on a fuel line fitting, is it the same?
 

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Thanks, why would one fitting have that white plastic piece, and the other fitting not have it? does that plastic piece just cover up that spring/clip?

That tool looks like the same thing you would use on a fuel line fitting, is it the same?
The white plastic fitting from my understanding is a dust cap, they do not come with the new connectors. All 4 of my turbo fittings had them and only one of the fittings on the back of the head.

No it isn't the same as a fuel disconnect tool.
 

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LH side can be accessed by going over the top of the valve cover and using a mirror to see what you’re doing. You will need a stubby pivoting rachet or similar tool. The TH side can be accessed the same way but it’s way easier to take off wheelhouse liner and come from the side. Unfortunately removing the LH wheelhouse liner won’t help you it’s a much tighter space. May need to remove wiring connectors for CMP sensors and push them out of the way but that’s no big deal. Either way this is one time in a man’s life when smaller hands = winning!


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Is the LH side the passenger side?
 

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so is it possible to change the front/side engine and top turbo fittings w/o removing the turbo? I'm having to do the one turbo fitting but I'd hate to do one and not all of them while i'm at it.
 
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