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I had my trans on a jack and removed the entire downpipe when I did this job. You can jack up the trans a little more than it is, but I wouldn't push it more than 1" or so. You have to remove the trans mount off the trans, or you will be pulling up on the down pipe. The bolts are a huge PITA. I could only get about 1/4 turn at a time on them.

Some advice on the coolant lines - Keep the feed line off the block until you install the turbo. If this line is attached to the block, it makes it difficult to get enough leverage on it to push it into the turbo. I didn't remove the lower turbo bracket on the block, so I had to wiggle the turbo to get it into place. If that supply line is anchored in the block, the other end needs to be at the right angle or it won't slide in easily.

I got mine all finished and buttoned up. Drives sooooo much better. I know the CR manifolds have better geometry, but I think fixing the exhaust leak has made all the difference. I can tell the turbos spool sooner because more of those gases are pushing the turbo. I bet a lot of people who complain their trucks have become sluggish have this exhaust leak issues going on. It seems to really affect the low RPM velocity on the turbos. It pulls much stronger in the low RPMs when the motor is lugging along. I am very happy with the result I am seeing so far. About a 2 MPG bump in town driving, 20 MPG on the freeway easily. This is with the Lie-o-meter and not a lot of miles yet. Keep at it, it's worth the effort!
I got the driverside done today with my father helping. It took two of us. I ended up going in from the passenger side to remove the snap ring holding the coolant feed line on the jiffy tight. Then popped the hose off and went from down low behind the trans with a 3ft extension(if you don't have one buy one I use it all the time for my Cobra dropping the trans) and another 8-12" extension with a universal and thin walled short 19mm 12 point socket. Off it came with a little help from my hand through the passenger side to help guide it on the fitting.

Lubed up the new fitting o-rings and threaded it in by hand then used the same extension setup with 1/2" to 3/8" adapter into a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter to the inch pound torque wrench and 159 in/lbs. That side sucked!

Anyways all new jiffy tights and lines now. Just throwing the manifolds on now and will finish it up this week. Going to replace my accessory belts as well and looks like I have a transmission oil line to the rad leaking so I will try to get that buttoned up and then either go to the dealer for a flush or see how crappy a job it is at home to do.

For the record I got that driverside jiffy tight out with the downpipe still in place. Trans wasn't jacked up or lowered either. If you did lower it down a bit that would help some.
 

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I did the CRP manifolds and GT Turbos at the same time. Believe I got the first production run of manifolds. Truck sounded crazy to what it was before.
Turbos spool instantly. Couldn't be happier!

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What are the GT turbos? I keep seeing them mentioned but I can't seem to find any other info or where to buy them.
 

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Your link is for a turbo oil drain fitting on pan. Nothing to do with water.
If you want to throw away the junk jiffy tite stuff, the thread size is 9/16-18. Just typical #6 AN size. You could make it a simple connection.
Is this the same thread size for the turbo and head jiffy tights? How do you determine the thread size? Could you find a tool or something at Autozone or Advance to help determine this?
 

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I don't have an answer for your question, but for the cost I'd just buy the fittings to make sure you get the right threads and sizing. The last thing you want to do is strip out the hole in the head or in the block. Those fittings are pretty cheap. Also you can see how they seal against the surface and whether or not your alternative is going to leak.
 

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I do have an update on the braided hose. I went with a 6 AN boss fitting for both the head and turbo. They fit perfectly. I got a 90 connector for the head and a straight connector for the turbo. They went on so much easier than the factory stuff. I've been running them for almost 2 weeks now and I haven't had a single problem. I did have to grind an old 11/16 wrench to tighten the turbo fitting, but that was the only issue. I've also seen almost a full mpg improvement since the fix. I haven't been driving any different but have went from 16.1 mpg to 17 on the nose.
 

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I do have an update on the braided hose. I went with a 6 AN boss fitting for both the head and turbo. They fit perfectly. I got a 90 connector for the head and a straight connector for the turbo. They went on so much easier than the factory stuff. I've been running them for almost 2 weeks now and I haven't had a single problem. I did have to grind an old 11/16 wrench to tighten the turbo fitting, but that was the only issue. I've also seen almost a full mpg improvement since the fix. I haven't been driving any different but have went from 16.1 mpg to 17 on the nose.

What type of hose did you use? Just regular steel braid? is it a special thick wall for the temperatures around the turbo?
 

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I researched and paid a little extra for a steel braid with a thicker inner hose. It is supposed to be rated for high temperatures. It is used mainly for racing applications according to the manufacturer.
 

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Late to the party but curious if I'm in the same ballpark as y'all on this issue. Down 1.5 gals coolant on a recent 400 mile trip while towing a TT here in Idaho. Found my first puddle after removing the shrouds this morning. These 2 images show where I think the leak is...but I'm surprised to see a 4" section of hose running along the turbo line as seen in 2nd pic. (I easily slid the heat/fire sleeve as the clamps were loose). This is on the passenger side of a 2016 2.7L w/ 42K; I'm down 3 gallons in past 12 months, to include a "water just boils out of the coolant" when I asked Ford service dept to check around on recent service.
Should that rubber hose be there? If so, what part is it per the schematics in this post as I can't seem to ID it? Is it replaceable or do I order the entire kit/replace with racing-rated hose as coachwate mentions above? Thanks!
IMG_20190803_212414856.jpg IMG_20190803_212423141.jpg
Update: Drove 20 mins this morning to raise temps and mix in leak dye; a tightened hose clamp helped but this hose is definitely the source of the leak.
IMG_20190804_075317804_HDR.jpg
 

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Thanks for all the help, thought I had the driver side turbo leaking after ford dealership quoted me 750 to reseal turbo and another 800 if turbo was bad. Got under the truck and couldn't see it leaking, pulled wheel well and still no leak. Luckily looked at underside of coolant reservoir output hose and saw it leaking from there. It would drip off of that and run down a different hose and look like it was leaking from the turbo. Hopefully this could help someone.
 

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Colt, that IS the more common leak point but as you discovered, not always easy to verify.

I bet you are relieved!

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I used steel braid and added a fire sleeve. It’s held up well over the past 6 months with some pretty long/hard pulls


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How long of a braided line did you need for for the drivers side? And if you know, for the passenger side as well? Just one per turbo?
Thanks!
 

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Well I tackled my driver side today since it was just leaking way to much behind the engine after I had replaced the exhaust manifold gasket on the driver side about 6 months ago. I went in thru the top after removing the intake manifold, no easy task to reach it but I got it done. First I had a mirror and straight pick to pop off the lock spring, then moved the line back out of the housing with a screw driver, by opening up the gap between the line and the fitting then twisting the screw driver. Then I went down to the turbo and popped that one out of the connector and pull the line all the way out.

I was able to remove both fitting on the engine and the turbo with a 3/8 ratchet with 3/4 size socket. Then installed the new fittings on the engine and turbo, then installed the line. All is good so far. Total time it took me by myself was 3hrs.

When I asked the tech out the dealership how they do it he side they just pull the engine and replace all of the fitting at once.
 

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Bravo

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I read somewhere about a guy that just put some radiator leak stop in... so I ended up getting Bar's Leaks High Mileage Cooling System Repair that O'reilly's had (two formula bottle for leak sealing and the other for water pump lube, corrosion inhibitor, etc), and about a week or two later (within 1,000 miles I'd say), the leak through my driver's side turbo was sealed up. I was leaking about a gallon per 6-months... enough where in February or so my heat wouldn't work unless rev'ed up, and come august, my fan was kicking on more often than normal. So, $8 and still a happy camper... I'm sure only a small about of the formula was used for that drivers side turbo leak, so the rest will continue cycling in the system until the next flush, plugging the next leak before it even becomes noticeable on the driveway again.
 

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Glad it worked for you but the stop leak products have always made me nervous. Always afraid they would plug something that didn’t need plugging.
 

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I've had mixed results but only in the far less technical famous for leaking Ranger radiator and heater core. Ain't usin it in the Boost 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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