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Yeah that metal gasket on the turbo with the crooked hard pipe is ridiculous. I bent the "flexible" pipe just slightly when doing a turbo removal and I couldn't ever get a proper seal at the turbo again. You change the angle and that pipe is toast.

The oil fitting in the block on my 2012 definitely has a screen in there. The replacement I bought had a little longer screen. I suppose the increase in surface area is supposed to increase available flow? Not sure if they are required, but I can imagine they are there to keep any sand/dirt particles from grinding on the turbo impeller shaft.

173282
 

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2015 Lariat 4WD
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Makes me wonder if mine were removed at some point, or if they are non-existent on the 15 models.

The G2 oil drain is a lot more flexible than the G1 variant. While they are both (I believe) stainless, the G2 is not connected to a plate in conjunction with the oil feed, so the distortion aspect is not really present. I did have to manipulate it a few times to get it to seat properly but once in place it was good to go.

On the G1 turbos, when I did my AN coolant conversion I did have some difficulty getting a good oil seal once I re-installed the turbo on the driver side. This due to the steering linkage making the angles all wonky when removing and then going back in. I ended up removing the line and getting the plate that connects to the turbo cartridge as straight as I could before I put it back in and it sealed.

Learned a good deal about the driver side in doing this, regardless of how many times one removes and replaces a turbo on these trucks, that side is always going to be more tricky.
 

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6X M14X1.5 6AN fittings (with o-ring)
2X M18X1.5 6AN fittings (with o-ring or hybrid crush washer)
6X 6AN 90 degree fittings
2X 6AN 45 degree fittings
4 feet of PTFE stainless braided line (you can use whatever you wish, I just opted to use PTFE.)
Is the oring required on the 14x1.5 or will a hybrid crush washer do?
I ask because I can't seem to find orb ones, but plenty with the hybrid washers.

As for the m18 ones, does the Saginaw type connection with the oring at the bottom work?
 

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You can improvise with the M14's and put a quality o-ring on them. I will post some Amazon links of what works, standby...

As for the M18, no, I do not believe so.
 

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You can go to a supply house such as Northern Tool, Lowes and even Harbor Freight and acquire a large o-ring kit that has oil/gas/heat resistant rings in all sizes. They are suitable for this application.

The M14's listed in the above link come with both an o-ring and a hybrid crush washer. I used the hybrid on the head location per the recommendation of those who paved the way before me. No leaks.
 

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You are very welcome, if you need further assistance, please advise. This is a relatively simple project aside from getting the head fittings out.

Once you get the JT fitting clips off and the OEM coolant pipes out, its a breeze.

You got this!
 

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I would think a crush washer would be mandatory on the turbos. Won't the orings melt with the temps they generate?
 

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I thought the same thing, but if you recall, the JT fittings work based around an o-ring and while that is a poor design, there are trucks that have never had a coolant leak from the turbo fittings.

Prior to doing the G2 swap I had zero issues.
 

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So I'm in the process of purchasing all necessary hardware to upgrade my turbos (going with CRP Stage 4). From what I've read it's a good idea to replace my coolant line parts while everything is off. My question is - should I buy the Full-Race upgrade kit? 2017+ 3.5L EcoBoost F-150 / Raptor AN Turbo Coolant Line Upgrade Kit • Full Race

Or am I fine just replacing OEM parts with OEM?
Hey OP, how did the FR line install go? I'm looking at replacing my lines and was a bit concerned with with fitment...
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hey OP, how did the FR line install go? I'm looking at replacing my lines and was a bit concerned with with fitment...
I had my local dealership install, along with the turbos and manifolds - they didn't mention any fitment issues.
 
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