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Discussion Starter #1
Our atmosphere ALWAYS contains some moisture. As we drive along the air coming into the intake, and that routed via the PCV into the intake, will RISE in temperature, either in the combustion chamber, or, initially, as it flows through the crankcase via the PCV inlet flow.

When the temperature of our atmosphere rises the propensity for condensation of water out of the atmosphere lowers (PHYSICS 101!).

It is ONLY after we turn off the ignition and the engine block begins cooling that the atmospheric moisture REMAINING will begin to condense onto the cooling surfaces.

Thus the only way possible for preventing "this" condensate from contaminating he crankcase oil is an AIR DRYER in line up stream of the PCV system's crankcase intake.

An keep in mind that normally only maybe 10% (***) of the airborne moisture flows through the PCV system, 90% goes directly to the combustion chamber.

*** Normally not even enough to support HOT idle speed/RPM, more than that and the ECU idle control system would fault.
 

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Just get a catch can and be done with it


Black Sheep of the Family
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many of today's high performance engines have an integrated AOS, Air/OIL Separator, that drains the "captured" oil back into the sump. The amount of water drained into the crankcase at any given time/period is so low as to be not of concern as it will evaporate almost instantly once I "hits" the sump's HOT oil.
 

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I like to come on here and tell people to permanently alter their CAC by drilling a hole into it instead of buying a catch can. 90% of my posts are to bash catch cans, particularly those made by RX. I offer no credentials, but I do join other forums to bash. I also like to antagonize.
Tell us something we don't know.


The boost will set you free
 
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Many of today's high performance engines have an integrated AOS, Air/OIL Separator, that drains the "captured" oil back into the sump. The amount of water drained into the crankcase at any given time/period is so low as to be not of concern as it will evaporate almost instantly once I "hits" the sump's HOT oil.
And none of them can be more effective than app 20% or they also capture the damaging compounds as a concentrate. Water, unburnt fuel, sulfuric acid, abrasive carbon particles, etc. that will then accumulate in the oil drastically accelerating wear and shortening engine life.

The water in the crankcase 95% comes from the moisture released in the combustion process and introduced as steam in the blow-by. That is why it is critical it be evacuated before it can condense and accumulate. The amount of water present as a percentage of the ambient air (relative humidity) is of little impact on what reaches the crankcase as steam. Most is expelled out the exhaust after the combustion process, only a fraction actually enters the crankcase and that is why it is critical to evacuate before it can condense and accumulate and cause the problems the EB has and no other turbo engines do.

Oh, and the Family won at Vegas NHRA National event this weekend in 2 classes, stock & Super Stock.


What did you race and win in??
 

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Plays nice, kids.
 

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Where's the fun in that?


The boost will set you free
 

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Where's the fun in that?


The boost will set you free
Usually none, but when I tell you I preferred Exofx's pictures of a computer screen over this particular argument it should mean something.
 
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