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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
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Revved up for this (y)
 
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I am thinking about returning my system to stock now to see how it runs. I saved all the hoses, only problem is I have a big hole in my passenger side inlet tube now.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I am thinking about returning my system to stock now to see how it runs. I saved all the hoses, only problem is I have a big hole in my passenger side inlet tube now.
You can turn your dual valve into a single valve setup if you remove the wot line and cap it. Then just install the clean side vent. If you wanted to keep any idea of a catch can.

You may be able to reach out to UPR and purchase one of the plugs for the intake tube. Or you can make one out of a extra connection laying around. Looks like this:

170193



You may have to perform a KAM reset as well when switching back to the stock setup.
 

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I already said in the other thread I don't mind the discussion. It's not a hijack when you add some scientific data to the thread! Post in either, doesn't bother me one bit. I just want my PCV system to work properly without loading up my CAC or diluting my oil with fuel!!!
 

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I already said in the other thread I don't mind the discussion. It's not a hijack when you add some scientific data to the thread! Post in either, doesn't bother me one bit. I just want my PCV system to work properly without loading up my CAC or diluting my oil with fuel!!!
My biggest complaint of the Full Race catch can I’m currently running... tons of oil squirting out the CAC-hole now


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Discussion Starter #9
Geoff actually explained a while back on the functionality of their kit vs others.


Our design is focused on evacuating crankcase pressure, entraining oil out of crankcase vapors, and keeping the intake valves clean and boost-leak free.. The net effect of reducing crankcase pressure is an increase in the pressure differential across the pistons. This corresponds with more energy transfer (HP) and better ring seal. One simple option for this catch can is Vent to atmosphere. VTA allows for absolutely zero re-introduction into the system, but it smells oily. Instead we recirculate the catch can to the turbocharger inlet for no smell. This is a proper and proven technique on turbocharged engines for decades.

When deleting the PCV to intake manifold connection, we are no longer pulling fresh moisture-rich air into the crankcase for emissions at idle and vacuum, this also means less watery residue will collect in the can. Our design is only focusing on reducing crankcase pressure.


- Geoff
 

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I can confirm little to no water in Cc contents


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My biggest complaint of the Full Race catch can I’m currently running... tons of oil squirting out the CAC-hole now


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That's interesting
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One thing I noticed is that the 11-12 trucks pull a lot more air thru that clean side vent than 13+. Which could be caused by the small inlet used on the turbo.

With how it recirculates, the turbos spin quite a bit. Even when cruising.

When was the last time your air filter was changed? A restricted air filter will increase the vacuum supplied thru the cleanside vent which could be causing your turbo inlet connection to be wet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’d be very interested in seeing.

I personally think valve coking on these engines is very over-exaggerated. Yes it will happen but at a MUCH smaller rate than previous DI engines.

Trucks that have a ridiculous amount of carbon buildup are usually those that are not driven hard at all. Babied their whole life.

The valves on my 2011 look nothing like others. The carbon buildup was VERY minimal. But that could be only because I used the truck as designed.

Then Ford implementing PI was only to make more power and less emissions. It was not entirely for ”cleaning” the valves.That was just a plus.

Theres a bunch of false information going around on forums and especially Facebook.
 

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Has anyone considered using a Mann(as in the Euro truck mfg) Provent instead of one of these fancy metal cans? The provents are really popular in the diesel world, more specifically the VW TDi, Jeep Liberty CRD and other Euro diesels. They use a filter media kinda like an oil filter. The one I used on my Jeep very specifically filtered out the oil only and seemed to let other stuff pass.

170204


Part of the thought was that the other stuff(fuel and water) would actually clean the valves on the way in. The diesels have the same valve issue but it is 10x worse because the PCV blowby mixes with the diesel soot from the EGR and causes a tar to form inside the manifold and runners.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I actually looked into purchasing one of those to test. You can get them pretty dirty cheap. But flow was the only issue I was concerned with.

But if you keep the stock setup or “stocking” setup you don’t have to worry about water being an issue since it should all burn off with the heat of the engine. Where other catch can kits forced the moisture to condense giving off the illusion they’re doing something.

A properly working pcv on these trucks only pass fuel vapors and a tiny bit of oil.
 

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I actually looked into purchasing one of those to test. You can get them pretty dirty cheap. But flow was the only issue.

But if you keep the stock setup you don’t have to worry about water being an issue since it should all burn off with the heat of the engine. Where other catch can kits forced the moisture to condense giving off the illusion they’re doing something.

A properly working pcv on these trucks only pass fuel vapors and a tiny bit of oil.
They have different sized ProVents and claim you can use them up to an 80L motor. I was using the Provent 200 on my Jeep which is rated for 335hp or 200 liters/min of blow by(which seems like a ton to me?). Looks like they came out with the Provent^2 which has a 100, 200, and 300 version.

The jeeps PCV system was much simpler though since it was a diesel. There was no manifold connection. It simply went from the valve cover to the inlet tube of the turbo. The other issue is that the lines are huge. I think the provent connections are 1/2" OD or something so you would have to step up from the stock line size.

The cheap ones may be knockoffs. The legit provent 200's cost ~$150.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
They have different sized ProVents and claim you can use them up to an 80L motor. I was using the Provent 200 on my Jeep which is rated for 335hp or 200 liters/min of blow by(which seems like a ton to me?). Looks like they came out with the Provent^2 which has a 100, 200, and 300 version.

The cheap ones may be knockoffs. The legit provent 200's cost ~$150.
Ah that’s makes a lot of sense. I’d imagine you could easily get away with the 200 or 100. Because we have blowby, but it’s not as much as a diesel.

I really don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Doesnt it use 1in inlet and outlets? So then you can reduce it to 5/8 and definitely make it work.
 

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Correction, the provent 200 inlet/outlet is 25mm/1". Now I remember I bought 7/8" ID silicone hose and had to work to get it to stretch.

I was editting my last post while you typed
 
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Discussion Starter #20
One thing I did notice is that they have some sort of PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve). I imagine you could probably remove that?
 
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