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17 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 SCLB Max Tow
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They know they have you by the balls unless you are willing to wait 4-5 months for a reman.

I will sit on this for 5 months if I have to. My wife and I both work from home so we don't really need two cars, I have the 4Runner as a second car if needed, and my GX can tow the trailer if I feel like going camping.
I just paid ~6K to have a company replace my outdoor AC condenser, just the outside unit. A few years ago that was easily a 3-4K job at most. Glad I did it though because we are now in a record heat wave. When you need it, you need it. I think at these prices you could almost buy a beater car if you need additional transportation and put the F150 on indefinite backburner. There's no telling what prices are going to do, but I certainly hope this isn't the "new normal" unless I get about a 15% raise this year.
 

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Ya I bought a tiny car for run around short trips etc. Pickup just sits til time to tow.
 

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17 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 SCLB Max Tow
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Considering it's a Engine/Trans and a bunch of accessory stuff, it's not too bad. I mean just my build "crate engine", wasn't a whole lot less if you pull out the cost of the trans from the Godzilla kit.
No It’s not terrible. Only issue is being the first one to install this in a F-150 how much stuff will be need to be adapted/made/bought different to make it work. Wouldn’t doubt you could spend another 10 making it work after the fact.
 
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17 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 SCLB Max Tow
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If you gonna go big might as well go with this
 

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2019 F150 XLT 4x4 2.7 Screw
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Asking for a friend...Aren't the heads and block of the 3.5 ecoboost aluminum?

IF so, then I wonder how many heads/blocks these people "magnafluxed" the heads and block and found any bad? (FYI...magnaflux is a magnetic particle/liquid penetrant equipment company. Magnaflux real term is magnetic particle testing or MT for short)

I mean, I'm only a "dumb" NDT guy (Level III) and have NEVER been able to get aluminum to hold a magnetic field which makes MT useless. They better be using liquid penetrant on the aluminum heads/block. I'd be using Type 1, Level 3, Methods A, B or D. Okay, I just full nerd, forgive me. haha!

If I'm correct that the heads and block are aluminum, I think that's a question you need to ask. Just saying...
 

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Asking for a friend...Aren't the heads and block of the 3.5 ecoboost aluminum?

IF so, then I wonder how many heads/blocks these people "magnafluxed" the heads and block and found any bad? (FYI...magnaflux is a magnetic particle/liquid penetrant equipment company. Magnaflux real term is magnetic particle testing or MT for short)

I mean, I'm only a "dumb" NDT guy (Level III) and have NEVER been able to get aluminum to hold a magnetic field which makes MT useless. They better be using liquid penetrant on the aluminum heads/block. I'd be using Type 1, Level 3, Methods A, B or D. Okay, I just full nerd, forgive me. haha!

If I'm correct that the heads and block are aluminum, I think that's a question you need to ask. Just saying...
If I remember it’s a dye that can be used on aluminum and you’re right of course no magnet will hold to aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
So my cousin knows a guy(my cousin knows everyone) that has a shop in Park City. I reached out and he is able to get a reman with 4 yr unlimited mile warranty in 4-6 weeks from LKQ. Allegedly LKQ is selling Ford their engines so its very likely I would have ended up with an LKQ anyways.

The price for the motor is a bit cheaper than the original non-core ford price and labor is the same.
 

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So my cousin knows a guy(my cousin knows everyone) that has a shop in Park City. I reached out and he is able to get a reman with 4 yr unlimited mile warranty in 4-6 weeks from LKQ. Allegedly LKQ is selling Ford their engines so its very likely I would have ended up with an LKQ anyways.

The price for the motor is a bit cheaper than the original non-core ford price and labor is the same.
That's a pretty solid deal there. Especially the 4yr.
 

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So my cousin knows a guy(my cousin knows everyone) that has a shop in Park City. I reached out and he is able to get a reman with 4 yr unlimited mile warranty in 4-6 weeks from LKQ. Allegedly LKQ is selling Ford their engines so its very likely I would have ended up with an LKQ anyways.
The price for the motor is a bit cheaper than the original non-core ford price and labor is the same.
Towing season is half if not 2/3rds the way over. So probably just depends how badly you want your truck back. Then again I can't imagine prices substantially dropping between now and next tow season, if ever. Seems like these engines are always in high demand. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Towing season is half if not 2/3rds the way over. So probably just depends how badly you want your truck back. Then again I can't imagine prices substantially dropping between now and next tow season, if ever. Seems like these engines are always in high demand. :(
I dont know that the prices of the remans are any higher than they were before, and I just dont wanna risk a used engine with no known history. I’d probably be doing a timing chain and manifolds a week after installing.
 

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Is there any verdict yet? What are your plans?
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Is there any verdict yet? What are your plans?
Reman block from LKQ. Should be here in a couple of weeks. 4 year unlimited mile warranty. The truck was basically stock at this point anyway and have zero plans to make it unstock since its primarily a tow rig so i didnt care about paying for a built anything.

I called them and asked for a quote and never heard back. But I decided i didnt wanna pay for a built motor. Truck is staying stock from here on out except for maybe small timing tweaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Odd discovery. I decided the drain the oil so i could pull my oil cooler. The oil from the pan looks normal, however the oil that came out of the cooler is mixed with coolant:

Shoe Automotive tire Hood Road surface Asphalt

Automotive tire Hood Light Motor vehicle Automotive design


now i am wondering if the stock oil cooler was damaged. I really hope my cooling system isn’t contaminated now.

either that or maybe its cross contamination from the hole in the block that drained back down to the filter
 

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Odd discovery. I decided the drain the oil so i could pull my oil cooler. The oil from the pan looks normal, however the oil that came out of the cooler is mixed with coolant:

View attachment 181353
View attachment 181352

now i am wondering if the stock oil cooler was damaged. I really hope my cooling system isn’t contaminated now.
Maybe didn't make it to the radiator yet, but did start to go through the filter and cooler? I'd definitely get a new stock oil cooler if your reman doesn't come with one, and do a solid clean of the aftermarket cooler. I'm thinking about replacing mine just due to the miles on my truck.
 
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