F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is an odd one. The wife was leaving work, pulled the truck around the block, and stopped at a light, when she noticed the truck was off. She checked the tach and it was at 0. So she cycled the key, and it refused to start. She got power to the instruments, but no starter. Some guys and our son pushed her off the road, and as I (after asking her if there was an oil puddle where she stalled) got there they were looking through the fuse panel on the radiator. I did a quick check for oil, and then started it up with no problems. I followed her home, and just before we parked, I noticed her rear driving lights weren't on. I cycled the engine in the driveway and they came on. Not sure if that was due to the light sensor or not.

She said lately that once in a while the truck will delay half a second or so before engaging the starter. She also got a message on the status screen mentioning to turn the key off to save the battery and a battery light, but that goes away when she starts it. Thoughts? This makes me nervous because we will be taking a family road trip on the 5th about three hours away to the peninsula.

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Way too many computers these days. We love the features and pampering, but crazy stuff like this can happen.

What year is your truck?

Don't the new ones have that silly battery management function that actually turns the alternator off? There's a plug near the battery to disable it and eliminate it as a potential cause of your symptoms.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
770 Posts
How old is your battery? I'd start there. Coming from gm trucks Idk how ford's respond to a bad battery, but I know the gm's sure hate it...all kinds of weird issues

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
How old is your battery? I'd start there. Coming from gm trucks Idk how ford's respond to a bad battery, but I know the gm's sure hate it...all kinds of weird issues

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
That was along what my wife was thinking. She dropped $200 on a Duralast. The old one was definitely past its prime, as it was leaking acid. No idea how old, I couldn't see it marked on there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
571 Posts
My 2013 had the delay on it when I bought it. Also the driving lights were hit and miss on function. First thing I did was pull that Motorcraft for a 80 dollar Farm and Fleet Platinum 1070 CA. Has worked great since then. Hope that fixes your issues, since you've got your new battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
2013. Also, the truck just honks when I use the remote start.
The ECM may have detected some problem that makes it disable the remote start for safety/emissions/other reasons. Pull your codes and see if there are any pending. If no codes then disconnect the battery to clear out the ECM and then try the remote start.

In case you're wondering why I think it's the ECM is because I had the same issue on my wife's 13 Explorer. Remote start stopped working one day and the horn would just honk whenever you attempted to remote start (1 honk per start attempt). A few days later the check engine light came on for bank 2 emissions threshold. I cleared the code with my reader to see if it would come back. I tried remote start after clearing the code and it was working again.

Hope this helps.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
It occurred again. Leaving a parking lot, we were waiting for traffic to clear. It dies, and shows every error screen imaginable. It also loses all the vehicle info when cycling the key.
20180706_131532.jpg
I disconnect and reconnected the computer, and it would attempt to turn over about once and the stopped. I smacked the fusebox in the engine compartment and the passenger side but no change. I slammed the hood and the mileage reappeared, and it started.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Have you checked the battery connections for corrosion? On my 2013 there was a fair amount of corrosion because of the POS OEM Motorcraft battery leaking at the terminal...

It sounds to me like a bad/loose connection somewhere between the battery and the PCM or one of the other computer modules. If all of the connections look great, then it might be worth doing some thorough testing of the related fuses (i.e. pull a fuse, hook up a multimeter to both sides of the fuse on the resistance setting, and gently tap on the fuse to see if there is any break in connection).

Does it seem to be related to how warm the engine bay might be? i.e. only happens after driving for a while or sitting idling for a while? Poor connections can change behavior based on temp.

Just a few thoughts. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
There was corrosion prior to. In fact a few weeks ago I removed the battery and cleaned the tray out tray out thoroughly. The clamps were pretty bad so I cleaned those up thoroughly as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
Have you checked for codes?

This should be the first troubleshooting step you take.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
You can get LOTS of codes thrown without a cel.
In fact, you can get lots of codes thrown without knowing it, until you hook up and look.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Pulled the codes, and there are two:
B00A0
U0100

The B code comes up as a SRS error on the passenger seat, which I doubt is a symptom of this particular issue. The U code is telling, but doesn't actually help me much at all. That one is saying that the PCM/ECM lost communication with something. Considering my mileage is not reading when this issue is present, it did seem clear it was a computer problem. Slamming the hood and having it come back to life makes me think it is an intermittant issue due to something loose. Or gremlins. Thoughts? I checked for loose grounds on the chassis, and nothing seems obvious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
579 Posts
You mentioned a bad corrosion issue previously... are you sure the corrosion didn't get into the cables themselves? I've seen it before - it will start eating up the wire inside-out... you'll clean the clamps up, but won't get rid of all the cancer.

And, BTW, this is just one of the reasons why AGMs are so wonderful - no corrosion!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
No idea of inside the cables. Not really sure how to check.

The issue has not resurfaced, but I try to avoid driving the vehicle. However I do want to solve this as it is my wife's primary form of transportation.

The two things that changed prior to this happening that I know of are that I:
1. Replaced the driver-side mirror motor, and
2. Replaced the rear driver-side emergency brake cable.
I was working around the e-brake pedal quadrant when replacing the cable, so I am not sure if anything is loose. could anything related to those two areas affect the computer?

Also, is there any interaction between the computer and the stereo? I can adjust the climate controls through it (it is aftermarket, but been installed the whole timewe had the vehicle) and I am thinking of taking it out to check for loose connections.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
579 Posts
The factory stereo is part of the CANBUS network. I don't know what your aftermarket is. I would expect that to be more likely to interfere with something... but I doubt it would cause a total shutdown/loss of electrical power.

As for the battery cables, pull them off and flex them. If they're corroded internally, you'll be able to tell. They may even fracture.

It would also be interesting to know if you have any codes set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Where you ever able to resolve this issue. Trucks having similar issues, difficult one to figure out where to start at. Have done the cleaning of connectors and grounds and replaced the wire going from battery to fuse panel.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top