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Please read the entire thread before commenting. Most likely there is information that can help you in framing your comment to make it relevant and up to speed. Then search catch cans in the search bar and read all those threads. Then, go to revextreme.com/ Tracys tech support and read all that research. The simple oil separator you are suggesting as an alternative is not designed to correct the flawed PCV system of the Ecoboost motor. The RX can is. It's not magic. It's thousands of hours of R&D including real road experiments using other catch cans the Grim Reaper mentioned. Youll have to foegive our sarcasm. We just went through a painful exercise in explaining the effectiveness of the RX can to another new member that thought a $20 eBay can was a good alternative. Long story short. He's seen the light, i.e. science, and had to eat his words.

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Thank you for not being a ass, ill check it out .....
 

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Wow what ever guys , I was just offering a less expensive alternative, was it mentioned already? I didnt read the entire thread... Theres also larger units... that was just a picture I pulled off google... I dont get it ,all that happens is some oil vapour and moisture pass the pcv valve... the trick is to catch it from cycling into the intake.. correct? What is so magical about expensive catch cans?
Sorry dude, as Mike said we've had some growing pains, and you know how everyone gets on the internet. At the end of the day you're going to be the one doing your maintenance, or paying for it, and you'll be the one in the drivers seat. We can offer suggestions, we can offer personal insight, but its up to you on what you choose. Sorry we can get a little rowdy, hope you're not too put off, but everyone is right about there being alot of research and development going into the specific ecoboost dual valve setup for our trucks, the big issue which you will find in the research is that there are two PCV valves, and each on vents independently and at different times passenger side under vacuum, and the drivers side under boost. This is just on the surface, it goes significantly deeper, but there's alot of info out there and it's alot to type ;P
 

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Hey e boostin..everyone on here are nice people its just like they said go read for a couple hours on it first.. I probably spent over an hour reading all the posts and all the tests that were done between all the different cans.
And most cans probably like yours did catch some oil! SOME oil but the rx catch can caught so much more oil..a lot of the cans will let oil go in but with venturi effect just be sucked back up and especially with these ecoboost motors.
A lot of people have had their trucks break down or run like crap from all the oil and some of those had home made cans or other cans that are just not made right..
Like everyone said search catch can then come back and tell us if you think it's all b.s. and you think everyone in here is just arguing for the fun of it and everyone's wrong and your home made shot glass will work better..
If you see how much oil is pulled out of a good catch can you will throw your idea out the window trust me..
 

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Hey e boostin..everyone on here are nice people its just like they said go read for a couple hours on it first.. I probably spent over an hour reading all the posts and all the tests that were done between all the different cans.
And most cans probably like yours did catch some oil! SOME oil but the rx catch can caught so much more oil..a lot of the cans will let oil go in but with venturi effect just be sucked back up and especially with these ecoboost motors.
A lot of people have had their trucks break down or run like crap from all the oil and some of those had home made cans or other cans that are just not made right..
Like everyone said search catch can then come back and tell us if you think it's all b.s. and you think everyone in here is just arguing for the fun of it and everyone's wrong and your home made shot glass will work better..
If you see how much oil is pulled out of a good catch can you will throw your idea out the window trust me..
Well said Marc
 

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It's a common mistake for new guys to jump in on a thread without reading the entire thing. I've done the same.

No hard feelings man, but there is a lot of data to back this up, and many a nay sayer have recently changed their positions.

Good advice to be patient and do a LOT of back reading on this forum. There's thousands of hours of information here. Many subjects have been addressed again and again.

A common example of what you did is a new guy coming in and commenting about how silly it is to buy a cold air intake.....yeah....we know....just read first before typing :)

Peace. And welcome again!





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DAYYYYYYYYUM!!! That looks sweet! How did the install go? Did you get all the correct parts? Clean side separator too?
Install went fine once I had everything I needed. I had to buy a 1/2" drill bit ($10)and a step bit ($38! For one that goes bigger than 1/2"). I bought both at Home Depot... But now I have them for what ever else comes up...
The kit had everything minus a short piece of 3/8" tubing that was left out ($8 at autozone). I called RX performance today and they were super helpful. They told me my clean side separator is still on backorder but I'm using their "off road" vented filler cap in the meantime. I was told I should see my separator in about 2 weeks.
 

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I had just enough hose. Since rx recommends using the drivers side grey barb now u need to run the drivers side pcv to the air box. Doing this I had just enough line. Zero waste. It would have been nice to have some more line on the boost line. I have it running behind the engine but a little more and the engine cover would fit. Right now it doesn't. I'm gonna have to trim I think


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Thanks All,

Was out sick a few days and just got back in.

We prefer to have a un-biased independent do the tests, but they have to agree to document each step and do it all as described to be fair to the can being compared to the RX. We have tested tons of them over the years and can tell the results of most cans, but then it opens up room to cal BS, etc. and we want facts only.

Here is one of the more recent independent tests by a person that was convinced from the start the RX would not be that much different. There are also a few others going on currently with the Morso cans and the last JLT stopped after 2 weeks (this is usually what we see as they see first hand the drastic difference and don't desire to post the results):

5.0UPR vs RX Catch Can Effectiveness Test
[HR][/HR] I’ve had a UPR catch can on my 5.0 since last summer. It catches a lot, especially in the cold months. But I’ll get right to my test. I added an RX can inline after my UPR can to see if the UPR was missing anything. And if it was allowing some to pass through, was it enough for the RX to catch anything? I don’t drive a lot of miles regularly since my F150 is not a daily driver, so my results will take some time. This thread is to document how I set it up and what I catch over time.
I installed the RX can just as the directions explained, but I routed the hoses differently. I left my UPR can right where it’s been for months, but rerouted one hose. I left the hose from the passenger side of the engine to the inlet of the UPR can. Then a new hose from UPR can outlet, routed to the inlet of the RX can. The RX outlet hose goes back to the engine. The PCV exhaust now flows from the engine, through the UPR, then through the RX, and finally back up to the engine intake.
Before installing everything for the test, I cleaned the UPR can thoroughly. The bottom of the can (inside) was covered with a thin layer of stiff sludge that I could only clean out using gas. I’m glad that was caught, along with the ounces of oil, water, etc, over the months I’ve been emptying it. But I was surprised at the outlet hose from the UPR can. It was wet with oil. Obviously some was getting through the can and back to my intake. I’ve never let the can get close to half full before emptying it. Nearly every time I’ve emptied it, there was 1/4“ or less in the bottom. I’m noting this in case someone thinks I left the UPR get overfilled and it flowed through. Nevertheless, I started this test after cleaning everything for a fresh start.
I plan to leave this setup on for a thousand miles or so, and report my findings from each can.
1st picture: UPR can as it was originally installed.
2nd: CleanUPR can.
3rd: RX can installed. The hose in the top center of the can is the inlet. The outlet hose on the right has a check valve.
4th: Engine outlet to UPR inlet on left of can. UPR outlet on right side of can routed around (smaller hose) to the RX inlet. You can also see the other smaller hose coming back up from the RX can and ending at the intake on the engine.









Report 2:









I thought I'd add a post to keep this thread alive since it is taking me awhile to get enough miles on the truck for valid results. Now that spring weather is finally arriving, I haven't been putting as many miles on it since I'm busy. But I have around 600 miles on the test set up so far. I emptied the cans recently and recorded the volumes to date. I'd like to wait until I get to 1000 miles before posting the results from the test, but I'll give some preliminary feedback.

- Emptying process -
First the UPR. I'm used to emptying the UPR can regularly, so it's not a big deal to unscrew, guide the can out from between the hoses, pour it out, guide it back in between the hoses, get it lined up carefully (so I don't cross thread the soft aluminum) and screw it back up snug. All that takes less than a few minutes so it's rather easy.
Now the RX can. Raise the hood, hold an empty water bottle under the drain tube, open the valve, close the valve, close the hood. I kid you not, it takes no more time than it took to read those steps. I knew it would be easy to empty, but it is ridiculously easy.

_ The weather so far -
During the first week of the test we had winter weather, with some snow. Since then we have had mild weather. Temperatures are in the 50's and 60's most days.

- What they caught so far -
I won't share the amounts yet, but I'll give some info. The UPR can has caught a 'mostly oil with a bit of water' mixture so far. The RX can (in line after the UPR) has had just the opposite. It's collected mostly water or fuel, with some oil mixed in.
I emptied the UPR first, and I would estimate it has collected the normal amount compared to what it usually does I empty it. I was pleased that my set up with 2 cans didn't seem to change the normal flow and collection I was used to seeing with just the UPR can. When I was about the turn the valve to empty the RX, I paused to a few seconds wondering if anything would come out. After all it was a new can that would need to get some oil/water coated on the inside before there would be enough to drip to the bottom (The UPR can had been in use for many months and although I cleaned the can I did not rinse off the filter material). Plus I wondered if the valve of the RX can protruded up into the can, and if it required some liquid to collect before there was enough to spill over that valve nipple and exit the can. Then I opened the valve and I had to smile when I had some liquid drain out. I thought all along that if it caught more than 10% of what the UPR was collecting, I would be surprised. It's still early in the test, and I would like to redo the test after reversing the order of the cans later, but I am surprised so far. I'm hoping to get more miles on the truck soon so I can wrap up this phase of the test.




Report3:


1000Miles of Testing Results

-The Weather hasbeen warmer lately. So the test began with sub freezing temperatures,and gradually increased through the 70's and topped off in the mid80's yesterday. I couldn't have asked for a better range oftemperatures for this test.

-What they caught wasastounding to me. UPR was first in line, with the RX after it tocatch anything the UPR might miss.
TheUPR stayed on track with what it has been accumulating for manymonths. Each time I emptied them, it had about the same amount. It'scontents were mostly oil which smelled like used oil. It caught 17cctotal which is just under 3 1/2 tsp.
TheRX had more than the UPR each time I emptied them. It's contents werean oil/fuel/water type mix that had a much stronger odor. Not a fuelsmell, but a sharper chemical smell compared to the odor of used oil.It caught a total of 67cc which is just over 13 1/2 tsp.

-Final totals:
UPR- 17cc
RX- 67cc



TheRX can caught 4 times the amount the UPR can caught, after theUPR can removed what it could. I said from the beginning I would besurprised if the RX can could pull 10% of what the UPR caught, sinceit was second in line. If someone told me it would catch an equalamount I would have said BS. For it to catch 4 times what the UPR cancaught is unreal.


Report4:


Therouting of cans has been reversed sothe second phase of the test is underway. I cleaned the cans andhoses so neither has an advantage. I also checked the inside of thehoses as I disassembled everything. The exit hose from the UPR wasdripping with oil and it made a mess as I took it apart. The exithose from the UPR was clean and dry. It still looked new. That iswhat prompted me to clean all the hoses before starting this phase.Is the double can routing helping the second can that much,or is one can that much better. Time will tell again.


Report5:


Andnow back to our regularly scheduled programming…


Phase2 is almost complete now,thanks to some extra mileage for work. I'll report on that soon andbegin phase 3.


AsI said above, UPR shipped parts for me to do phase 3 of the test. Ibought my UPR can in June, and they changed the can slightly sincethen. The new diffuser/extension will only fit cans made after that,so they shipped a full new kit to test. Thank you UPR for helpingwith this, and for your input in this thread.
Aftershipping the kit, [email protected] asked me to remove the mesh from the exitside of my existing can for the remainder of phase 2, and to removethe mesh from the exit side of the new can before starting phase 3. Iremoved it from both (phase 2 was half way done when I removed itfrom the existing can). When I was removing the mesh from the shortside of the new can (in preparation for phase 3), I realized thediffuser was assembled backwards. For our 5.0 F150's the long side ofthe diffuser must be on the passenger side of the can when installed.I disassembled, removed the mesh packed up in the can top on theexit/passenger side, and reassembled the can with diffuser. Foranyone who might have received their cans assembled by UPR, youshould check to see if it was assembled correctly before installing.(EDIT:Joe notes below they assemble the cans for shipping, and all cansshould be assembled for your own installation needs) I also had asmall piece of the stainless steel mesh (1/8") drop out when Iwas doing that. I wasn't thrilled with that so I unrolled, andlightly tapped the mesh in case there were any other loose pieces,but there weren't. A quick note on the UPR kit... it is much improvedsince I bought mine. The hoses are pre cut to the proper lengths, theelbow fittings are nickel rather than plastic, and they include FordOEM snap on valve cover and intake fittings.


Moreto come soon!



Report6:


TestResults

- I'llsummarize thetest to date. The first phase was to test the UPR vs the RX catchcans on a 5.0, both base models, with the UPR first in line and RXinstalled to catch anything the UPR missed. Those first phase resultswere: UPR - 17cc, RX - 67cc. The 'first in line' UPR caught 20% ofthe total volume. See post 37 in this thread for more details. Thecans were cleaned and reinstalled in reverse order for phase 2, RXfirst and then UPR.

Phase2 Test Results
-The Weather hasbeen average northern Ohio spring weather. Some rain, fog, coolnights, warm and hot days.

- Driving hasbeen about the same through both phases. I good mix of rural roads,some small towns, highways, and approximately 40% of the miles oninterstates at 65 - 80mph. Mostly average style driving, with a fewvery heavy accelerations mixed in. A little heavy hauling, and notowing.

-What they caught thistime might have been predicted by some (after the results of phase1). RX was first in line, with the UPR after it to catch anything theRX might miss.
Thecombined volume of gunk was half of that caught in the first phase.The first phase had some cold weather which accounted for more waterin the mix and the higher volume.
Thecontents from the RX can was mostly oil/fuel, and had a strongchemical/solvent smell again. It caught 35.5cc total which isapproximately 7 1/8 tsp.
TheUPR can caught about the same mix of oil/fuel, but didn't smell quiteas strong. Halfway through this phase, [email protected] asked me to remove themesh on the exit side of the UPR can. I did that, but noticed nodifference in what it was catching. But since it was second in line,and there was little to catch, that's understandable. The UPR cancaught 1.75cc total which is approximately 1/3 tsp. With so littlecollecting this time, I monitored the contents of the UPR can butdidn't empty it until the end of the test.

-Phase 2 Totals:
RX- 35.5cc
UPR- 1.75cc

- Othertidbits includethe 'first in line' RX can caught 95% of the total volume. The exithoses were very clean from both cans. The last few tanks of gas haveproduced slightly higher than my normal MPGs, but it's too early totell on that (more to follow after phase 3).

-Phase3, usingthe UPR can extension and diffuser, is underway. Details will follow.
 

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Yeah, I'm on the fence about this mod as well.. agree that it's possibly cheap insurance.. but if it's that good of an idea why didn't Ford add it to the engine's PVC system already? Other than the fact it requires owners intervention to check and drain on a regular bases?

And we're probably talk'n apples to oranges when you consider looking at the engines internals say at 100k miles when you take into consideration that one F150 owner uses his truck as a daily commuter, never tows, and pretty much babies his truck and does all his driving around town for relatively short distances and takes almost 9 years to get that 100k. Whereas another F150 owner drives the crap out of it, mostly highway, daily towing, off roading on the weekends and gets to 100k within 5 years... I'd almost venture to say that the one who babies his F150 actually is the hardest on the engine and has more carbon build up on the internals and might benefit more from the catch can? Of course I'm only guessing...
I have a 2012 with almost 75k on it. I drive a lot for work, approx 35k a year, plus I tow a heavy camper often. Oh, and I don't baby my truck at all, especially with the few mods I have on it. I have been on and off with the catch cans, just have not made a decision if it's worth it, or if it's just a product that people buy because it's available...
 

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I have a 2012 with almost 75k on it. I drive a lot for work, approx 35k a year, plus I tow a heavy camper often. Oh, and I don't baby my truck at all, especially with the few mods I have on it. I have been on and off with the catch cans, just have not made a decision if it's worth it, or if it's just a product that people buy because it's available...
Im in same boat .I would think if I was going to add something to my intake it would be the meth/h20 injection. Should take care of the valve deposits and get a performance boost at same time! Cheers

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I have a 2012 with almost 75k on it. I drive a lot for work, approx 35k a year, plus I tow a heavy camper often. Oh, and I don't baby my truck at all, especially with the few mods I have on it. I have been on and off with the catch cans, just have not made a decision if it's worth it, or if it's just a product that people buy because it's available...
Pull the lower charge pipe of the right side of the IC, if you find any oil or snot, etc. then you would want to consider a catch can if you anticipate long term use from your Eco? This was my IC at around 40k when I installed my Full-Race. Not much oil in the IC, but who knows how much is coating the rest of the system? Remember, you want nothing but air in your air system!
 

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Pull the lower charge pipe of the right side of the IC, if you find any oil or snot, etc. then you would want to consider a catch can if you anticipate long term use from your Eco? This was my IC at around 40k when I installed my Full-Race. Not much oil in the IC, but who knows how much is coating the rest of the system? Remember, you want nothing but air in your air system!
My stock CAC had more oil than that at 1100 miles!!!! :(
 

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Im in same boat .I would think if I was going to add something to my intake it would be the meth/h20 injection. Should take care of the valve deposits and get a performance boost at same time! Cheers

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Meth injection would have to be constantly spraying to take care of the issue as the old Port Injection systems did, but it will help slightly reduce the rate of coking.
 

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I have a 2012 with almost 75k on it. I drive a lot for work, approx 35k a year, plus I tow a heavy camper often. Oh, and I don't baby my truck at all, especially with the few mods I have on it. I have been on and off with the catch cans, just have not made a decision if it's worth it, or if it's just a product that people buy because it's available...

This is from a Ford dealership that has done in depth testing. Looking at all the mods you have, this should be a no brainer at the price:

 
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