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Very nice upgrades, all I have done is upgrade the intercooler and replaced the plugs and new throttle body on our 2013, have an SCT programmer with some 5 star tunes to load when spring rolls around. But I did notice a difference in sustained power when towing since I installed the intercooler, IAT's under 5 degrees over ambient temps towing in 95 degree weather is very nice, I'll never need the pipe upgrade after seeing such a drastic drop with just the intercooler. Also have a 180 thermostat to install and will program the fans to come on at 200 instead of 225. No plans to upgrade the intake or exhaust since they flow more air than the stock turbos can produce, not to mention most aftermarket versions actually lose low end.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Very nice upgrades, all I have done is upgrade the intercooler and replaced the plugs and new throttle body on our 2013, have an SCT programmer with some 5 star tunes to load when spring rolls around. But I did notice a difference in sustained power when towing since I installed the intercooler, IAT's under 5 degrees over ambient temps towing in 95 degree weather is very nice, I'll never need the pipe upgrade after seeing such a drastic drop with just the intercooler. Also have a 180 thermostat to install and will program the fans to come on at 200 instead of 225. No plans to upgrade the intake or exhaust since they flow more air than the stock turbos can produce, not to mention most aftermarket versions actually lose low end.
Yeah, I picked up the SCT Livewire TS+ and some custom tunes, but have not done too much with it yet. I tanked up with 93 octane and ran the 93 tune for a bit, and could tell the difference, but decided I wouldn't spend much time data logging or working with a tuner until I have the exhaust manifold leak fixed. And i have snow tires on right now as well, and it's probably good that I'll be forced to go easy on the new turbos until springtime. Things should be nicely broken in by the time summer tires come out.
 
Been there!!! Good times await you my friend.

Did you decide on a custom tune?

I would strongly suggest Unleashed whose customer service and knowledge is on par to or with Boost King.

As for DP'S.... HIGHLY recommend getting some... One of the best "butt dyno" mods... Even without a tune. Remember air in air out.

The ONLY reason I bought a CAI is because my tuner recommended it due to all the other bolt ons.... It's like cancer man... I'm telling you.

I ended up doing AMS inlet piping as well to get better flow. On my 9th tune revision after my turbo swap and that is where "more air in" started to make better numbers...

Anyway, best of luck to you in that build. I sure enjoy turning wrenches on mine and it seems you do as well. Enjoy!

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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Been there!!! Good times await you my friend.

Did you decide on a custom tune?

I would strongly suggest Unleashed whose customer service and knowledge is on par to or with Boost King.

As for DP'S.... HIGHLY recommend getting some... One of the best "butt dyno" mods... Even without a tune. Remember air in air out.

The ONLY reason I bought a CAI is because my tuner recommended it due to all the other bolt ons.... It's like cancer man... I'm telling you.

I ended up doing AMS inlet piping as well to get better flow. On my 9th tune revision after my turbo swap and that is where "more air in" started to make better numbers...

Anyway, best of luck to you in that build. I sure enjoy turning wrenches on mine and it seems you do as well. Enjoy!

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk
I ended up going with Boost King for the custom tunes, and we’ve been waiting until I can do some decent data logging. We were going to do a 93 octane tune, that is also good for towing. And then a 93 or higher octane tune, that is meant for pushing the performance a bit.

Yeah, I expect that I’ll have to add some new bolt-ons, to really give the turbos a workout, but I’ll follow the data and make small adjustments. The goal is to find the limit for performance, without upgrading engine internals, and still have a reliable daily driver. The one expensive upgrade that may be on the horizon is an upgraded HPFP, but at least it’s a fairly straight forward install.
 
If you have it near you, go with an E85 setup. I have FIC1000s and Raptor in tank pump and it has a decent amount left in the fuel system. Still drives like stock with proper tuning
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
Chad- just realized that I had been following along with your build, and when you got to the part where you went from a lift to a drop, with custom wheels, I was thinking "man, I just got the stance right, with the fox suspension, new rear block, airlift system, and powder coated a new set of raptor wheels." Every decision opens some doors and closers others, I guess, but I still want to tow with the truck, and take it out in the sticks sometimes, so my ultimate performance numbers will have to reflect that too. Still, the $1400 for a new HPFP would go a long way toward switching to E85.....
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Over the summer, I upgraded the audio system, along with some sound dampening and insulating. Thought I would post some pics, while I still remember how I did things.

I worked with Bruce Watson at hush car audio to help with component recommendations, and also to build a custom harness, so that I could use my stock head unit, and everything was plug and play. Bruce shipped the whole package, including all wiring, door speaker adapters, door speakers, subwoofer, and amps, and was great to work with. I had spent way too much time looking at options for building my amp board, for behind the rear seat, for example, and Bruce guided me toward the Kicker key amp, which fit in the dash, and a new JL audio sub, which had the amp built in. The end result was a much easier install.

The first audio-related thing that I did with the truck, since it’s a 2016, was to upgrade the USB ports that are in the center console, and then do a software update of the SYNC system, so that I could run Apple Car play. If you use an iPhone and have an older version of SYNC, then I would recommend doing this, even if you don’t upgrade anything else. It was cheap and adds a lot of features and convenience.

I had to decide how nuts I was going to get with vibration dampening and insulating, and thought I should start with the doors, since the panels had to come off to install new speakers anyway, and I could decide how much to do after that. I found this really informative overview for preparing the cabin, and used it as a guide: Sound deadening/Dynamat-2016 F150 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

I spent one weekend doing the doors and a second weekend doing the floor/ceiling/back wall, etc.

In order to keep the under-seat storage, I opted for the LMI welding kit, which allows you to move the rear seat ahead a few inches, and have room in back of the seat for a larger subwoofer. I haven’t really missed the few inches in the back seat, and I’m glad I still have under-seat storage.

Now that the job is done, the doors close like a tank, and if you knock on them with your knuckle, it hurts your hand, since there is no give at all. I can still hear the aftermarket exhaust and turbos, but it really dampens all other sounds from getting through. Something that I was not expecting was how well it maintains the cabin temperature. The truck might be covered in snow, but I come back after an hour and it’s still warm inside.

Really happy that I went through with the project, as I enjoy it every time that I’m in the truck. I don’t think that I would pay someone to do the sound deadening and insulating, as the hours add up quickly, but it’s not a terrible job, when you have the time.

Some pics from the door sound dampening and insulating process:
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Great job on the sound damping!
It doesn't just help the audio system sound. The truck suddenly has a luxury feel to the cabin environment. You don't realize how much your eardrums influence the whole experience. Much like smell affects flavor.

I admire your thoroughness. :)
 
yes very nice! Now you might motivate me to finally do my roof since everything else is done.

what’s that material looking stuff you have over the CLD and closed cell foam?


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Looks great. I'm just about done gathering my components and will be doing something similar. I will not be doing the roof because I have the panoramic but the rest will get treated.

How hard is it to remove the center console/shifter?
How heavy are the seats? (2 person job?)



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Looks great. I'm just about done gathering my components and will be doing something similar. I will not be doing the roof because I have the panoramic but the rest will get treated.

How hard is it to remove the center console/shifter?
How heavy are the seats? (2 person job?)



Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
The seats aren’t bad at all, center console just kind of tedious and pain in the butt. I did it all by myself so definitely can be done solo.


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Discussion starter · #39 ·
yes very nice! Now you might motivate me to finally do my roof since everything else is done.

what’s that material looking stuff you have over the CLD and closed cell foam?


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The material over the CCF, on door panels and roof is boom mat. It's similar to thinsulate, and I just used a can of 3M spray adhesive to hold it in place, which worked well.
For the CLD, I just used Noico black, and the CCF is Noico red. It had the same specs as Dynamat and others, and was cheaper. Some people complained about a smell with the butyl rubber in earlier versions, but this stuff didn't have any offensive smell to it.

For the floor, I used Mass Loaded Vinyl, which is really heavy, and same stuff they use in recording studios. I tried to keep it to as few strips as possible, and then taped the seams.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Looks great. I'm just about done gathering my components and will be doing something similar. I will not be doing the roof because I have the panoramic but the rest will get treated.

How hard is it to remove the center console/shifter?
How heavy are the seats? (2 person job?)



Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
Yep, what Sirikenewton said, removing the seats and center console is not too bad, and I did it several times by myself. The first time I removed everything was just a dry run, so I could do it again quickly and had an idea when I would need to stop work and get the truck back to a drivable condition, on a Sunday night. I left the plastic pieces off, which cover the bolts, to make it a litter faster the next time.

The rear seat is harder to remove by yourself, and you should disconnect the single seat first, so it comes out in two pieces, otherwise it's just floppy and awkward to pull out without damaging something. And careful with the power tools, as many of the bolts are attached by threads through the aluminum body, and it's easy to strip them (managed to catch myself halfway through doing this to one).

The center console is pretty straightforward, once the front seats are out. There are a couple of bolts around where the seatbelts attach, as well as inside the console, and a small harness to unclip, on the passenger side. Then the whole thing pulls straight back a couple of inches and then lifts straight up.
 
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