Ecoboost sludge build up on intake vavles, possible fix???

50746 Views 42 Replies 15 Participants Last post by Tuner Boost, Jul 29, 2014

Ruthless Robbie

Discussion Starter · Jun 23, 2014

3

So we've all seen what the catch can is able to catch from the pcv system before it enters back into your intake

Mason jar Food Hand Ingredient Drink

by not having a catch can your intake valves can look like this pic below

Macro photography

obviously a catch can would help significantly reduce the amount of sludge entering into the intake, however if you decided to install a catch can @ 50k miles your intake tract and valves would more than likely have an abundance of carbon build. you will need to have a shop manually clean your valves with wire brushes.

In my 2011 Ecoboost with 55k, completely stock, it's starting to idle rough until it's at operating temp then it runs smooth. I believe this is because I may have a few cylinders with an abundance of build up on the intake valves causing the rough idle until operating temp.

Ford doesn't currently suggest a way to clean your intake tract and valves and doesn't recommend seafoam as it could damage your turbos and void your warranty.

My suggestion to clean your intake tract and keep it clean would be to install a water/meth injection kit. This would basically steam clean the deposits off your intake tract, intake valves and tops of your pistons.

so guys tell me, is this a safe option to clean my intake tract and keep it clean?

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fx4twenty6

· #2 · Jun 23, 2014

I picked up a boroscope from harbor freight and as soon as it's in ill do a write up on what my intake and valves look like. I put on a catch can at 40k miles.

I wonder if I rig up my shop vac with a small hose if it would suck the carbon off of the valves while I spray some sort cleaner on them?

Ruthless Robbie

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 23, 2014

fx4twenty6 said:
I picked up a boroscope from harbor freight and as soon as it's in ill do a write up on what my intake and valves look like. I put on a catch can at 40k miles.

I wonder if I rig up my shop vac with a small hose if it would suck the carbon off of the valves while I spray some sort cleaner on them?

throw a water/meth injection kit on there. steam clean your intake tract and enjoy the added performance, thoughts???

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fx4twenty6

· #4 · Jun 23, 2014

My next mod is an AEM water/meth system. But that is a little while down the road. I just got my exhaust,170* thermostat and sct x4 with custom tunes from 5*. So I'm not buying anything for a little while.

Tuner Boost

· #5 · Jun 23, 2014

Best is a manual cleaning.....and meth/water inj will help slightly, but would need to be sprayed constantly to do more.

It is really only a 3 hour or so job to remove the IM and do a manual cleaning, and a few on here have done them and may help. I can give you step by step as well.

Ruthless Robbie

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 24, 2014

Tuner Boost said:
Best is a manual cleaning.....and meth/water inj will help slightly, but would need to be sprayed constantly to do more.

It is really only a 3 hour or so job to remove the IM and do a manual cleaning, and a few on here have done them and may help. I can give you step by step as well.

You say it will help slightly but will need to be sprayed constantly to "clean" more. What's your thougts on long term use. Wouldn't it eventually clean it all overtime and then continued use would keep the engine clean?

.

2013FX4RD

· #7 · Jun 24, 2014

Just out of curiosity, have you by chance checked your plugs as a cause of a rough idle? Proper gap is essential on these temperamental bastards.

Sent from my La-Z-Boy while wearing Batman footie pajamas.

colinmitchell111

· #8 · Jun 24, 2014

I love my RX monster can and my AEM water/meth kit. I recommend both and I'm sure your engine will be spit shined over time.

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Talley

· #9 · Jun 24, 2014

check plugs first....

IF I ever had a bad head then ported heads/cam will replace the stockers.

Ruthless Robbie

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 24, 2014

2013FX4RD said:
Just out of curiosity, have you by chance checked your plugs as a cause of a rough idle? Proper gap is essential on these temperamental bastards.

Sent from my La-Z-Boy while wearing Batman footie pajamas.

I changed the plugs at 50k. All of the old plugs I pulled out had a gap of 42 and the new factory replacements I checked and they're all gapped at 31.

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Mrod67

· #11 · Jun 24, 2014

I know this is my opinion, but the "steam cleaning" effect doesnt really come into play until combustion, and is minimal to say the least. I dont know about you guys, but i have always had a tough time trying to clean carbon down an intake port. My most effective method is head disassembly. That gunk is really stuck on there, and i feel that the misfire problems are valve to seat sealing troubles. Cleaning that area of the valve is just about impossible. I wish i had a better answer, the local BG guy tries to sell a 3 part system for DI engines, but most customers can't take the idea of $60-70+ added to an oil change. How many mile oil changes do you shoot for? I go for about 4K, 5-30 is cheap compared to some euro cars.

milesej05

· #12 · Jun 24, 2014

Tuner Boost said:
It is really only a 3 hour or so job to remove the IM and do a manual cleaning, and a few on here have done them and may help. I can give you step by step as well.

This would be very helpful, or maybe someone on the forum who has already done the manual cleaning can put together a "how-to"

Domo121

· #13 · Jun 24, 2014

Couldnt you do a motorvac? When it comes to the intake cleaner, do it in a couple steps. Before you start and while its running and use double the amount.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Tuner Boost

· #14 · Jun 24, 2014

6

Ruthless Robbie said:
You say it will help slightly but will need to be sprayed constantly to "clean" more. What's your thougts on long term use. Wouldn't it eventually clean it all overtime and then continued use would keep the engine clean?

.

The rate of build up far exceeds the cleaning ability. It does help, but the amount is minimal. If you prevent it all from entering in the first place then, then it is a non issue.

Mrod67 said:
I know this is my opinion, but the "steam cleaning" effect doesnt really come into play until combustion, and is minimal to say the least. I dont know about you guys, but i have always had a tough time trying to clean carbon down an intake port. My most effective method is head disassembly. That gunk is really stuck on there, and i feel that the misfire problems are valve to seat sealing troubles. Cleaning that area of the valve is just about impossible. I wish i had a better answer, the local BG guy tries to sell a 3 part system for DI engines, but most customers can't take the idea of $60-70+ added to an oil change. How many mile oil changes do you shoot for? I go for about 4K, 5-30 is cheap compared to some euro cars.

You

pretty correct here. The Ecoboost and most engines now days the manual cleaning is very effective. Here are some pics:

Ecoboost at only 30k miles before and after manual cleaning:

So the manual cleaning works extremely well, and is not that difficult. True, disassembly is always the best, but these results are close. I would no do solvent based cleanings after we have seen the turbo blades damaged from the debris impacting them that is broken loose from the use, and solvent never gets it all unless you do it from early on on a regular basis as BG did in their test. Then your causing premature wear and damage to the cylinder walls and pistons as a portion always is forced down between the piston and cylinder wall during the process, and these deposits can be carbon rock hard and very abrasive.

We see a few causes of the misfire. Rough idle and running is mainly the buildup along the seat and valve lip/edge that causes vortices and uneven air flow in at idle and low RPM's (higher RPMs the flow overcomes this when the deposits are not that severe), spark blow out from the liquid mix ingested from the CAC due to the PCV system flaw, and as you describe, when severe coking, valves can actually stick, or if a deposit breaks loose that is big enough, get caught between the valve and the seat. Also when coking is severe the air entering each cylinder is an uneven amount and that messes everything up.

Domo121 said:
Couldnt you do a motorvac? When it comes to the intake cleaner, do it in a couple steps. Before you start and while its running and use double the amount.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

That would loosen and remove a good amount, but the damage I described above occurs, so it is at the sacrifice of engine longevity. Never good to do any solvent based cleaning on a turbo application.

All good discussion here!!!

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fx4twenty6

· #15 · Jun 25, 2014

Harbor freight sells a media blaster that will blast walnut shells. How difficult of a job is this for someone that has never done it before? It seems like all you have to do is make sure you have a vacuum line in there while you blast.

EcoBoostDave

· #16 · Jun 25, 2014

fx4twenty6 said:
Harbor freight sells a media blaster that will blast walnut shells. How difficult of a job is this for someone that has never done it before? It seems like all you have to do is make sure you have a vacuum line in there while you blast.

And make sure the valves are closed.

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fx4twenty6

· #17 · Jun 25, 2014

EcoBoostDave said:
And make sure the valves are closed.

That brings up my next question. How on earth do we do that on one of these newer engines with intelligent variable valve timing and cam positions?

BHPete

· #18 · Jun 25, 2014

Just for clarification TB pirated this picture from me! Lol! This was done with a mechanical scrub, using Amsoil Power Foam, a bottle brush, and a shop vac while rolling the engine over by hand to close the valves.

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BHPete

· #19 · Jun 25, 2014

This is the before right around 70k.

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fx4twenty6

· #20 · Jun 25, 2014

So you were able to turn the crank by hand to close the valves.
Did use a brush with nylon or brass bristles?
My truck is a 2011 with 43k miles on it. Only the last three are with a can.
Did you clean your intake manifold too?

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