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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there have been a lot of comments on the plug gaps and/or issues with the OEM plugs themselves. But I hadn't come across anyone trying any of the BRISK racing plugs? Apologies if I missed a thread or 2 on this if it's been covered.

I'm on a little over 2K miles on the BRISK Racing plugs I bought for my 2013 F150 EB and it has been running really well. Previously on the OEM plugs I had gapped them at .030 per SCT's recommendation, which worked fine for the first 1,500 miles or so. Then noticed a slight 'miss' or 'bobble' on idle (WOT was fine). I re-checked the plugs and had to RE-gap them again. Not cool!!!

So...For those looking for an alternative to the lousy OEM plugs, these seem to do the trick...and NO GAPS!

Part number for 2013 F150 EB's is ROR15LGS (Premium).

http://www.briskracing.com/brisk-racing-lgs-spark-plugs

I'm getting 18.6 mpg's, but at approximately 65% highway driving. Running a K&N FIPK, 4" Flo Pro cat-back exhaust system and an SCT Performance power tune.



Brisk.jpg F150 Beach.jpg
 

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Dang these guys are right down the road from me. going to have to check them out.

Thanks!
 

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Curious as too why you are running the ROR15LGS as reading on brisk website says that's for stock 5.0 engines? Did they recommend this part number to you?


Brisk Spark plugs for the new 2011 FORD 5.0L, V8 engine are:

Stock Heat range spark plug:


RR15YC-1 (stock replacement Copper Core), ROR15LGS (high efficiency stock heat range spark plug)


One step colder spark plug:


ROR14LGS (Naturally aspirated applications only), RR14YS (projected tip- low boost forced induction app.), RR14S (non-projected tip-good for nitrous or forced induction)


Two step colder spark plug:


RR12S (non-projected tip) – High Compression, Forced Induction and/or Nitrous


Three step colder spark plug:


RR10S (non-projected tip) - High Compression, Forced Induction and/or Nitrous


Need 4 steps colder spark plug? => give us a call
 

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just installed these in my 2011, i still get a shutter 50-60 mile range while MPT tuned... while stock, without tune, no shutter. Any idea?
 

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I have the same problem and I called the dealership and they said to switch fuel to 91 instead of 87 and that seemed to work for other customers having the same problem. I have half a tank to go through before I can try it but I hope this helps.
 

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Definitely check your plug gap, I have 27k miles on my 2011, pulled the plugs and they were all between .038 and .040. I gapped them all down to .030. I am running the SCT 87 octane but try and run 91 octane fuel because I tow a lot.
 

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I am going to do this morrow and see if it runs better. 2011 with 40,000km

So checked all plugs. The 3 down the drivers side of the engine were round 40 thou but the actual tang has a crater staring to form where the arc comes across.

The passenger side was from back to front.
40, 34, 29. Only the rear most one had the crater on the tang. But I do recall seeing when I bought this truck that 1 plug had been done along with a coil I'm going to say it was the one that was gapped at 29 thou.

All are now 30-32 thou gap.

Didn't really notice much of a difference on start up. But will see especially on those more humid days.
 

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Hey guys im new here, i have a 2012 eco-screw and love it, but it idles rough :(... Pisses me iff, its been. Idling between 990-1000 rpms lately it used to idle at around 5 or 6... Please help... I replaced plugs twice all crafully gapped to .030, i always run 93 octane, livernois 91 octane tune, aem drop in airfilter, i have a nice oil separator on my pcv valve, so ya... Why is it idling soo rough?!?!
 

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On my 2011, I swapped out the plugs that came from the factory at ~55,000 miles - they were gapped all over the place, 6 plugs, 6 different gaps. I replaced them with SP-534 gapped at 0.028" and the truck idles smoother, accelerates better and the slight hesitation I had is gone.
 

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Hey guys im new here, i have a 2012 eco-screw and love it, but it idles rough :(... Pisses me iff, its been. Idling between 990-1000 rpms lately it used to idle at around 5 or 6... Please help... I replaced plugs twice all crafully gapped to .030, i always run 93 octane, livernois 91 octane tune, aem drop in airfilter, i have a nice oil separator on my pcv valve, so ya... Why is it idling soo rough?!?!
There is a recall out to reflash the pcm. Run a health report. The recall is 13EO3
 

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Ok so I'm wondering whats best for replacement plugs on a 2011 ecoboost with cold air intake and high flow exhaust no programmer yet. Thanks and also my truck seems to have a ton of lag any suggestions.
 
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