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Man I feel ya! This has so aggravated to say the least. I'm on Dealership number 4. If they can't find the problem they can buy back the ##$%^& truck!
The second dealer just called and told me that anything 248 degrees or less is normal operating range. WHAT??? And they will not do anything more. I am thinking of just taking it to a mechanic buddy of mine and have him take a look. It won't be under warranty, but I think it will be worth the peace of mind. Very odd.
 

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Yup, I've been dealing with this issue since September, been to 4 dealerships and they are saying it's operating normally. They said that until it actually throws a code or hits 270° they won't do anything. I've called Ford corporate to try and open a case and both times they said they can't do anything until it actually throws a code.
 

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The second dealer just called and told me that anything 248 degrees or less is normal operating range. WHAT??? And they will not do anything more. I am thinking of just taking it to a mechanic buddy of mine and have him take a look. It won't be under warranty, but I think it will be worth the peace of mind. Very odd.

I already did the mechanic thing. He is stumped to.... he literally replaced the whole cooling system along with twin turbos and inner cooler. When it reaches 249 it goes into lymp mode. FML...."DEALER" "WE CANT FIX IT, BUT IF YOU BLOW IT UP WE CAN PUT A NEW ENGINE IN IT FOR YOU"
 

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Yup, I've been dealing with this issue since September, been to 4 dealerships and they are saying it's operating normally. They said that until it actually throws a code or hits 270° they won't do anything. I've called Ford corporate to try and open a case and both times they said they can't do anything until it actually throws a code.

After 5 dealers 1 mechanic shop and 8,000.00 later. I finally fixed my over heating problem. The issue was the water pump. You have to go back with OEM water pump. The O'Reilly version will not move enough fluid to keep the 3.5 ecoboost cool enough. I hope this helps.
 

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Thanks. My water pump was changed by the very first dealer I took the truck to. But it never fixed the problem, which as I now know, is not even considered a problem with Ford. After they changed the water pump, I was on the road the very next day with the very same results as though they never did anything. To be sure, this is frustrating. Here in Arizona we are coming into the summer months and going up into the mountains pulling a trailer is going to be an adventure.

There is a curious but consistent thing that happens when going up hills. As I go up the hills, even a slight grade, the gauge begins to show the numbers at 228, then climbs to 230, 232, and up to 236. But when I punch it uphill, where the truck kicks into higher RPM's, the temperature starts to drop, sometimes dropping all the way back down to where the numbers are gone. That seems very counterintuitive to me: lower RPM's = higher temperatures; and higher RPM's = lower temperatures.

Has anyone else had this experience with the RPM's?
 

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Thanks. My water pump was changed by the very first dealer I took the truck to. But it never fixed the problem, which as I now know, is not even considered a problem with Ford. After they changed the water pump, I was on the road the very next day with the very same results as though they never did anything. To be sure, this is frustrating. Here in Arizona we are coming into the summer months and going up into the mountains pulling a trailer is going to be an adventure.

There is a curious but consistent thing that happens when going up hills. As I go up the hills, even a slight grade, the gauge begins to show the numbers at 228, then climbs to 230, 232, and up to 236. But when I punch it uphill, where the truck kicks into higher RPM's, the temperature starts to drop, sometimes dropping all the way back down to where the numbers are gone. That seems very counterintuitive to me: lower RPM's = higher temperatures; and higher RPM's = lower temperatures.

Has anyone else had this experience with the RPM's?
yes that's why we all say when towing lock it out of 8,9,10th gears, you want to keep the RPMs 2500 or a little above (2750 RPM is where it makes max torque) but don't go revving the piss out of either, when I tow I try to keep it around those rpms at all times
 

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Thanks. My water pump was changed by the very first dealer I took the truck to. But it never fixed the problem, which as I now know, is not even considered a problem with Ford. After they changed the water pump, I was on the road the very next day with the very same results as though they never did anything. To be sure, this is frustrating. Here in Arizona we are coming into the summer months and going up into the mountains pulling a trailer is going to be an adventure.

There is a curious but consistent thing that happens when going up hills. As I go up the hills, even a slight grade, the gauge begins to show the numbers at 228, then climbs to 230, 232, and up to 236. But when I punch it uphill, where the truck kicks into higher RPM's, the temperature starts to drop, sometimes dropping all the way back down to where the numbers are gone. That seems very counterintuitive to me: lower RPM's = higher temperatures; and higher RPM's = lower temperatures.

Has anyone else had this experience with the RPM's?
Have you done the simple stuff like make sure the condenser and Rad are clean and clean between them?


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Thanks. My water pump was changed by the very first dealer I took the truck to. But it never fixed the problem, which as I now know, is not even considered a problem with Ford. After they changed the water pump, I was on the road the very next day with the very same results as though they never did anything. To be sure, this is frustrating. Here in Arizona we are coming into the summer months and going up into the mountains pulling a trailer is going to be an adventure.

There is a curious but consistent thing that happens when going up hills. As I go up the hills, even a slight grade, the gauge begins to show the numbers at 228, then climbs to 230, 232, and up to 236. But when I punch it uphill, where the truck kicks into higher RPM's, the temperature starts to drop, sometimes dropping all the way back down to where the numbers are gone. That seems very counterintuitive to me: lower RPM's = higher temperatures; and higher RPM's = lower temperatures.

Has anyone else had this experience with the RPM's?
I have a 2017 3.5 and live in AZ, I tow 6k+ up to Payson quite a bit with no issues. There is an art to towing with these trucks to aid in keeping ECT's down. I just towed to Payson on Saturday and my max ECT was 217, coming home Monday 213 was max. I lock out 9th and 10th gear and will drop as low as 5th and 4k rpms. Boost drops and water pump speeds up allowing cooler ECT's. When under sustained boost my IAT2 doesn't get above °120 and transmission temps stay under °200. I am running mishimoto CAC, mishimoto trans oil cooler, fullrace radiator, °180 tstat, Cobb intake, fullrace 3" resonated catback and AMS turbo inlet pipes with a 5* 91 tow/performance tune. Active grill shutters have been unplugged since day 1 and the lower grill shutters have been pulled since day 1. I also run around a 30/70 water to coolant ratio.

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yes that's why we all say when towing lock it out of 8,9,10th gears, you want to keep the RPMs 2500 or a little above (2750 RPM is where it makes max torque) but don't go revving the piss out of either, when I tow I try to keep it around those rpms at all times
You can rev it as high as you want.
 
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Sudden spikes in engine temp after repair work to the coolant system sounds like air locks to me. These engines can be difficult to fully bleed out all of the air out of the coolant system.
 

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Hey yall. I'm looking for some advice. I recently purchased a certified pre-owned 2017 Ford F150 3.5L EcoBoost with 50,000 miles and I am noticing the engine temp running hot and causing the fans to kick on. I took it to the dealer and they checked for coolant leaks but did not find any. I have noticed that the engine temperature gauge begins to display the current temperature above 226 degrees. Apon accelerating up to highway speeds (80mph in SD) and after cresting a hill the temperature gauge reads 230-236 degrees. It usually disappears after 30-60 seconds however, after getting off the highway I can hear the fans blowing full blast. I only notice the temperature reading up in the 230's after accelerating to 80 mph or after cresting a hill. This happens regardless of having the AC or heat on and I am not toeing anything. This is my first ford truck and I am not sure if this is normal or if something is wrong. Any ideas on what is going on?
Did you ever find out what the problem was? I’m experiencing the same exact issue on my 17’ Raptor
 

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Did you ever find out what the problem was? I’m experiencing the same exact issue on my 17’ Raptor
My 18 raptor truck has been at the dealership for 2 months trying to figure out what the deal is. Today They replaced the thermostat and did a full coolant system flush to get out any possible air bubbles. I was supposed to get a call that it was fixed but no luck. The field service engineer said this was the issue; however I still skeptical. With 70k miles this seems like a class action lawsuit for everyone having this problem. I can’t believe someone doesn’t know why who built the motor.
 

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Update Includes Fix:

After 2 months of my truck being at the dealership my vehicle is back and working 100% correctly (per my last test drive).

Vehicle: Stock 2018 F150 3.5L Ecoboost High Output motor with 77k miles
Situation: Video of overheating unloaded With the truck unloaded driving at highway speeds in 10th gear on a long hill the truck would overheat when the turbos kicked in. It would also show temperature exceeding number 230-240 when accelerating for 10-20 seconds.

Resolution/Fix
My first step was to replace the air filter and spark plugs and radiator degas cap. Oddly that helped reduce the temperature spikes.
Next I cleaned the 3 MAP sensors. There are plenty of videos I looked at this one MAP sensor cleaning Mine were covered in oil but that didn't seem to have any affect but it seemed like a smart thing to do.
THIS RESOLVED THE ISSUE: Ford Service Engineers said that there is a known issue with the thermostats sticking or not fully opening. (this was new to me. I thought thermostats only failed open or closed). The dealership replaced the thermostat and did a full system flush to ensure there are no debris or air bubbles. BOTH STEPS ARE NEEDED. For me, I believe this is the major issue in that others that are experiencing as well as being seeing so many posts. Others have stumbled upon this by replacing multiple parts like the water pump and radiator which are not needed (unless leaking or bearing issues).

I hope this fixes your vehicle. While the fix was not all that difficult, these motors are very complicated and do alot of compensating resulting in very odd behavior. Keep up with your maintenance that is your best shot at keeping the vehicle running properly. Even though I do, I am seeing that shortened service intervals are needed if we frequently tow heavy.
 

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Great post and thanks for the update

I am NOT surprised that a thermostat, combined with the rather complicated cooling loop on the Ecoboost (in regards to the wide temperature range for the thermostat operation and the mixing of multiple sources of coolant at the thermostat housing) can render a "malfunctioning" thermostat.

And I also believe that it is possible for a higher mileage Ecoboost radiator to be performing below optimal parameters.

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These thermostats must get a good work out.
And they aren't old-school where they just open at some temp and close at another. They seem to operate in a partial open state a considerable amount of time?

But yea, they are a busy little analog device, as you mention.

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And they aren't old-school where they just open at some temp and close at another. They seem to operate in a partial open state a considerable amount of time?

But yea, they are a busy little analog device, as you mention.

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Ha ha. I almost wrote we need an old school T-stat. I guess the new ones are very sensitive variable reacting kind. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Ha ha. I almost wrote we need an old school T-stat. I guess the new ones are very sensitive variable reacting kind.
Really old-school was to remove the thermostat. Lol

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Update Includes Fix:

After 2 months of my truck being at the dealership my vehicle is back and working 100% correctly (per my last test drive).

Vehicle: Stock 2018 F150 3.5L Ecoboost High Output motor with 77k miles
Situation: Video of overheating unloaded With the truck unloaded driving at highway speeds in 10th gear on a long hill the truck would overheat when the turbos kicked in. It would also show temperature exceeding number 230-240 when accelerating for 10-20 seconds.

Resolution/Fix
My first step was to replace the air filter and spark plugs. Oddly that helped reduce the temperature spikes.
Next I cleaned the 3 MAP sensors. There are plenty of videos I looked at this one MAP sensor cleaning Mine were covered in oil but that didn't seem to have any affect but it seemed like a smart thing to do.
THIS RESOLVED THE ISSUE: Ford Service Engineers said that there is a known issue with the thermostats sticking or not fully opening. (this was new to me. I thought thermostats only failed open or closed). The dealership replaced the thermostat and did a full system flush to ensure there are no debris or air bubbles. BOTH STEPS ARE NEEDED. For me, I believe this is the major issue in that others that are experiencing as well as being seeing so many posts. Others have stumbled upon this by replacing multiple parts like the water pump and radiator which are not needed (unless leaking or bearing issues).

I hope this fixes your vehicle. While the fix was not all that difficult, these motors are very complicated and do alot of compensating resulting in very odd behavior. Keep up with your maintenance that is your best shot at keeping the vehicle running properly. Even though I do, I am seeing that shortened service intervals are needed if we frequently tow heavy.
This is helpful, however a lot of guys are running stats from other manufacturers and still have overheating issues. I think the key word here is if you have overheating UNLOADED then definitely something is not right with the stock cooling system as-is.
 

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I have a thought that possibly electroplating / electrolysis or tarnish might be a culprit as there is alot of differing metals in the the engine. This would prevent the slight movement as per required for correct operation. Does anyone know what the metals are?
 
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