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Strangely, it never happens in first or second gear. Under WOT, from 4k onward in the rev range, there's constant hesitations (like the power is cutting out and coming back on very quickly). It never does it under about half throttle. Barely seems to do it when you're toeing into the throttle. Does it like crazy at WOT.

It's a 2012 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost 4x4 with about 111k on it (I bought it with 101k in March of this year). I don't know the service history as far as a spark plug change. Not sure where to start, although that may be a good place. Just wanted to see if anyone else had experienced that before. Thanks for any help or direction.
 

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Are you describing "misfiring"?

Sure sounds familiar.

Check the Intercooler for liquid in the bottom of it?
And throw some new plugs gapped at 30 or less.

Both inexpensive misfiring solutions on Gen1 3.5EB

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you describing "misfiring"?

Sure sounds familiar.

Check the Intercooler for liquid in the bottom of it?
And throw some new plugs gapped at 30 or less.

Both inexpensive misfiring solutions on Gen1 3.5EB

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
So drill the CAC and change plugs and boots?
 

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I didn't say drill. :)

Only YOU can decide what method you want to use to rid any nasty gumbo from entering your intake.

IF that is in fact what is going on.

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I drilled it and forgot about it over a year and a half ago. Runs great since, as long as plugs are kept up with. And nobody gets 50 or 100k out of plugs on these engines. When in doubt, swap em out.
 

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I still have issues with mine falling on its face at full throttle sometimes. It will be crazy in 1st or 1st/2nd and then fall flat after the shift. I have a MIshimoto CAC with a hole drilled in the plug, and I keep my plugs pretty fresh (10k miles or so). It is not the same as the condensation, there is no misfire for me, just a massive power cut. This will run fine immediately after you ease off of the loud pedal. I need to do a bit of experimenting but I assume it is a BOV or wastegate issue for me. Both are old with over 120k miles so i think something is weak or ripped and dumping the boost. I need to data log, but haven't had time to fool with it yet.
 

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Check your coils. That's exactly what mine does. Read the code, see which cylinder. Swap coils and read the code again. If the code follows the coil, you've got it nailed.
 

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Check your coils. That's exactly what mine does. Read the code, see which cylinder. Swap coils and read the code again. If the code follows the coil, you've got it nailed.
If a coil was bad though, wouldn't it be cutting out under partial throttle too? Mine only cuts out under full throttle over 4000rpm. Just asking. I'm not a mechanic obviously. :)
 

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See attached Ford Technical Service Bulletin 14-0017.

When this occurred:
1) Were symptoms similar to issue described by TSB 14-0017?
2) Did the MIL (check engine light) flash or stay on steady?
3) What was the ambient temperature and relative humidity?
5) On hard acceleration, did you push the gas pedal suddenly to WOT or push the gas pedal steadily, gradually building to WOT?

Have the vehicle fully diagnosed by an experienced technician. Driveability concerns can sometimes be caused by worn spark plugs, but I think related symptoms are usually consistent/constant. Worn plugs can easily be pulled and visual condition confirmed. However, the situation you are describing appears more acute and specific. Ford dealer can check the VIN in OASIS to see prior service history (if it has been serviced by Ford Dealer). Ford technician can use IDS scanner to obtain Misfire Freeze Frame Data. If you were already in 3 or 4th gear and applied hard acceleration, RPM will definitely be above 2500 RPM and load will likely be above 100%. If a DTC is triggered, the engine computer will also record sensor input data at that exact time. Request the tech take a screen shot of the data log and print it out for your reference.

If the CAC is dry and you are still having issues, recommend the tech record full sensor information in real time Mode 06 (road test to reintroduce symptoms while recording with IDS scanner and laptop). They can run a few diagnostics to inspect ignition, compression, fuel injection system. I.e. Power Balance Test, Fuel Systems Test/Retrieve Injector Flow Test, Ignition System Test, Spark Duration PID.

If you go to an independent mechanic, they probably will not have Ford's IDS scanner. But other expensive and up to date scanners can run similar tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got plugs changed, and coil pack on cyl 3 was bad. Got truck back today, smooth and strong. At least it was an easy fix. Thanks for the help.
 

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Strangely, it never happens in first or second gear. Under WOT, from 4k onward in the rev range, there's constant hesitations (like the power is cutting out and coming back on very quickly). It never does it under about half throttle. Barely seems to do it when you're toeing into the throttle. Does it like crazy at WOT.

It's a 2012 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost 4x4 with about 111k on it (I bought it with 101k in March of this year). I don't know the service history as far as a spark plug change. Not sure where to start, although that may be a good place. Just wanted to see if anyone else had experienced that before. Thanks for any help or direction.
Here's what I have found out with the eco boost engine misfire. Change all the stock ignition coils to after market high performance accel coils. You can buy all 6 on Amazon for $250. Do not go to Autozone or Napa and buy that junk. Its all in the coils! good luck
 
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