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Hi all, Wanted to share my experience with my F150 ECO. Its a 3.5 with 64K miles Only a couple add on's

2016 F150 3.5 Ecoboost Super Crew, 20" wheels, spray in liner

2.5" Leveling kit
Soft bed cover
Swapped out factory tires for BFG KO2's. Original tires (Goodyear) lasted about 20K, BFGs are at 45K and still going (for a little bit longer). Well worth the extra $400 in original cost for more than double the mileage.

Mostly a street/ road truck. Have only towed 4-5 times total. I say this to preface my long list of what I consider major problems with my truck. The issues have not been due to over or excessive use. Additionally, I dont haul a lot of payload either.

Recalls:
-Cold weather plug may cause fire.
-Seat belt pyro charge may ignite carpet in the event of accident
-Door latches may suddenly release and cause door to open while driving.
All were repaired of course but goes to build quality and QC.

IWE's:
My IWE's have gone out TWICE. Both times replaced under warranty but still. First time they were making an clattering noise while driving in 2WD. Then it happened again. Dealer said warranty on IWEs has been extended to 100K due to known problems. happened at about 25k and again around 48K

Throttle Body Failure:
At about 39K miles (iust out of Bumper to Bumper) the electronic throttle body failed. It went out and cut acceleration just as I was pulling out onto a main very busy road. Traffic stopped and I backed (more like rolled) back into the side street I was exiting. Dealer wanted around $500 for repair, called parts department and got a new throttle assembly for under $80.

Shudder on Acceleration or when towing:
Diagnosed as bad driveline. NO DAMAGE, just failed parts. Replaced under warranty.

Trouble with 4WD:
Trouble engaging 4WD. 4WD light came on and displayed as if it was engaged but it was not, only rear wheels would turn on snow covered surface. After a bit of trouble the check 4wd message came on. The dealer diagnosed as a failed transfer case. Replaced and has been ok since. Happened at about 52K

Noise on Startup:
There was a very brief clatter on startup which would quickly go away. This ended up being the dreaded loose timing chain issue. WARNING to all owners, this only happened maybe 3-4 times since new. Dealer inspected and found the timing chain to be loose (out of spec) and replaced the timing phasers. The reason I say warning is b/c this was not a constant problem/ issue. It only happened on occasion and if I would not have made the dealer take a look at it then the repair/ replacement cost would have been my expense for something that is known to go bad. It could have been a big expense to replace or, worst case, could have caused engine failure. Happened at various times from about 30K forward, Luckily had them investigate at 57K

Misfires:
These started at about 58k. Noticed first on the freeway. The truck started to miss, then sputter, then lack of power to keep up at freeway speeds. Ultimately threw a code for Cylinder 4 missfire. Took to dealer, diagnosed as a bad wire and plug on cylinder 4, replaced under warranty and ran ok for a couple days. Then same symptoms, code showed cylinder 3 missfire. At this point I had just over 60K miles. Took back to dealer and same diagnosis just on cylinder 3 this time. I had a discussion with the service tech as I was seeing a pattern of failure starting and didnt want to continue with the issue of replacing one and bringing it back several more times. I asked that they look into replacing all remaining wires and plugs. They did but being over 60K would no longer cover the cost of the repair at this point. Its now out of warranty. To give them some credit, they did split the cost with me so less $$ out of pocket.

I can say that I am very disappointed with the reliability and issues so far. I am also wary of the long term quality / reliability and suspect there will be more of these issues to come.
 

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Hi all, Wanted to share my experience with my F150 ECO. Its a 3.5 with 64K miles Only a couple add on's

2016 F150 3.5 Ecoboost Super Crew, 20" wheels, spray in liner

2.5" Leveling kit
Soft bed cover
Swapped out factory tires for BFG KO2's. Original tires (Goodyear) lasted about 20K, BFGs are at 45K and still going (for a little bit longer). Well worth the extra $400 in original cost for more than double the mileage.

Mostly a street/ road truck. Have only towed 4-5 times total. I say this to preface my long list of what I consider major problems with my truck. The issues have not been due to over or excessive use. Additionally, I dont haul a lot of payload either.

Recalls:
-Cold weather plug may cause fire.
-Seat belt pyro charge may ignite carpet in the event of accident
-Door latches may suddenly release and cause door to open while driving.
All were repaired of course but goes to build quality and QC.

IWE's:
My IWE's have gone out TWICE. Both times replaced under warranty but still. First time they were making an clattering noise while driving in 2WD. Then it happened again. Dealer said warranty on IWEs has been extended to 100K due to known problems. happened at about 25k and again around 48K

Shudder on Acceleration or when towing:
Diagnosed as bad driveline. NO DAMAGE, just failed parts. Replaced under warranty.

Trouble with 4WD:
Trouble engaging 4WD. 4WD light came on and displayed as if it was engaged but it was not, only rear wheels would turn on snow covered surface. After a bit of trouble the check 4wd message came on. The dealer diagnosed as a failed transfer case. Replaced and has been ok since. Happened at about 52K

Noise on Startup:
There was a very brief clatter on startup which would quickly go away. This ended up being the dreaded loose timing chain issue. WARNING to all owners, this only happened maybe 3-4 times since new. Dealer inspected and found the timing chain to be loose (out of spec) and replaced the timing phasers. The reason I say warning is b/c this was not a constant problem/ issue. It only happened on occasion and if I would not have made the dealer take a look at it then the repair/ replacement cost would have been my expense for something that is known to go bad. It could have been a big expense to replace or, worst case, could have caused engine failure. Happened at various times from about 30K forward, Luckily had them investigate at 57K

Misfires:
These started at about 58k. Noticed first on the freeway. The truck started to miss, then sputter, then lack of power to keep up at freeway speeds. Ultimately threw a code for Cylinder 4 missfire. Took to dealer, diagnosed as a bad wire and plug on cylinder 4, replaced under warranty and ran ok for a couple days. Then same symptoms, code showed cylinder 3 missfire. At this point I had just over 60K miles. Took back to dealer and same diagnosis just on cylinder 3 this time. I had a discussion with the service tech as I was seeing a pattern of failure starting and didnt want to continue with the issue of replacing one and bringing it back several more times. I asked that they look into replacing all remaining wires and plugs. They did but being over 60K would no longer cover the cost of the repair at this point. Its now out of warranty. To give them some credit, they did split the cost with me so less $$ out of pocket.

I can say that I am very disappointed with the reliability and issues so far. I am also wary of the long term quality / reliability and suspect there will be more of these issues to come.
Sorry your frustrated. I feel bad for this reason alone.

I do believe most of the issues can be resolved especially misfires. Very common, easy solution

To start, clean you Intercooler out, pull plugs and check gaps. If at .030” or more gap to .026 with new plugs.

Drill 1/16 hole in your cac
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry your frustrated. I feel bad for this reason alone.

I do believe most of the issues can be resolved especially misfires. Very common, easy solution

To start, clean you Intercooler out, pull plugs and check gaps. If at .030” or more gap to .026 with new plugs.

Drill 1/16 hole in your cac

Thanks Ryan, Will check the intercooler and plugs as suggested. Where in the CAC, bottom/ low point?
 

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I really think all trucks should be running .028” gap. It not only leaves room for them to open a hair, putting you back to .030” but it also idles smoother, doesn’t effect fuel economy and it will never hurt. Stock motorcraft plugs should be used in lieu of NGK because NGK plugs start their life off with a wider gap, and requiring you to close it more. Not only “should” you really not gap down a plug more than 8 thou, but the NGK plugs open their gaps back up much quicker than motorcraft oem plugs.
 

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Sorry for all your issues. My experience with my truck is not at all like yours. Mine is a 2012 3.5, 4WD, tow package, Lariat, stock except for bed liner and soft tonneau. Going on 87,000 miles, of which 23,000 are towing a travel trailer. Routine service by local dealer. I've had just two issues. One O2 sensor, and a seal on the oil filter mounting adapter. Both fixed under warranty. Unfortunately there are some rigs, all brands, not just Ford, that have a high rate of issues. I give my BIL a hard time because his Dodge diesel gives him LOTS of problems but there's tons of Dodges out there with happy owners. Chevy's too. I'm partial to Ford and based on my experiences I'll probably stay with them.
 
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