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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I had a coolant leak at my water pump and had that replaced a month ago, my truck will overheat only going up hills or passing someone. I have a new water pump, thermostat, radiator, upper and lower hoses, had the coolant flushed.

Does anyone have any other ideas what could be causing this? The coolant temp will rise to about 2/3 up on the gauge and come down within 30 seconds.
The mechanic said that one side of the turbo is running 20% hotter than the other and the actual coolant temp got to 217 at the hottest going up a hill.
 

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217 should not be causing the gauge to move. 217 is like normal operating temp when I am towing on flat ground.
 

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2021 Powerboost Platinum FX4 Kodiak Brown
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Yea, if I actually saw the dashboard gauge move beyond its "normal" spot, I'd absolutely go get me an ODB device to monitor actual engine coolant temp (ECT pid)

I won't bore you with my diatribe about how worthless the dash gauges are for temp and pressure readings. Especially for troubleshooting any abnormality! You need real data before you make any decisions.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I ordered the blue driver adapter that should be in Monday and plan on using the app with blue tooth. What are some numbers you would focus on when scanning? Obviously coolant temp but what else?
 

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I seen your other thread on this same issue, and you had said your radiator was clogged. Did you not change that?
 

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I did. New radiator, two thermostats, new radiator hoses, coolant flush
Yeah i'd defer to what you find out with the scan tool. You may find that you just had a chowed up sending unit or something. Those dummy gauges cant be trusted for real time data. It's more of a guideline, like the pirate code from that Johnny Depp pirate movie ;)
 

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I'd log MAP, TIP, Coolant, Exhaust Temp, Knock Retard, Octane Adjust and your long and short term fuel trims at a minimum.

I would use Forscan Lite on your phone to do it. It has all of these PID's in it. If you use Torque or other random app it may not have them all and you will have to go hunting and have to manually add them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After logging coolant temperatures, they seem pretty high. After 1:30 trip averaging 60mph. I let the truck sit for an hour and then took it back out. The average coolant temp was 217 degrees and it got as hot as 230 going 55. This is after a thermostat, radiator, water pump, hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea, if I actually saw the dashboard gauge move beyond its "normal" spot, I'd absolutely go get me an ODB device to monitor actual engine coolant temp (ECT pid)

I won't bore you with my diatribe about how worthless the dash gauges are for temp and pressure readings. Especially for troubleshooting any abnormality! You need real data before you make any decisions.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
After logging with my scanner my temps ranged from 198-220. They seem way too high especially after all that I have changed on the cooling system
 

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2021 Powerboost Platinum FX4 Kodiak Brown
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Mine operates between 205-219 once it's warmed up and I'm scooting around town or cruising at 70+mph.

For this truck it is exactly as it has been seen I purchased it in 2017 (early 2018 model)

I'd say my average temp is 208-214
Driving easy or aggressive takes it below or above that average. One thing for sure is the way Ford has the coolant system designed and monitored, the Temps are dancing up and down in that range continuously.

The dash gauge reflects 0-change from 200-220, so I ignore it.
And the oil pressure never moves as long as it has 7lbs of pressure. Hilarious if you think about it. If you want to see a dancing number, monitor oil pressure!

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After logging with my scanner my temps ranged from 198-220. They seem way too high especially after all that I have changed on the cooling system
The way the cooling system works on these engines is that the thermostat sits at the entrance of the engine as opposed to being at the outlet of the engine. This means the t-stat is working to make the coolant entering the engine a constant temperature. The coolant temperature sensor is still at the outlet of the engine.

What this means is that any modulation of the throttle will result in a temperature swing on the outlet. Basically, assume the engine coolant is entering the engine at the same temperature all the time and you go from light throttle to flooring it for 20 seconds straight. You are now dumping way more heat into the coolant, but the coolant is entering the engine at the same temperature as it was when you were barely on the gas, so the temperature it comes out at(and what the temp sensor reads) will be much higher.

Hitting 220F briefly while under higher load is not a big deal. Or if you were towing a trailer than a constant 220F is pretty normal. If you were running a constant 220F just cruising down the freeway at light throttle then you might wanna be a little concerned.
 

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Excellent post! (regarding how Ford configured the coolant system differently and how our assumptions might lead to unfounded concerns)

This isn't our grandpa's 220F

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The way the cooling system works on these engines is that the thermostat sits at the entrance of the engine as opposed to being at the outlet of the engine. This means the t-stat is working to make the coolant entering the engine a constant temperature. The coolant temperature sensor is still at the outlet of the engine.

What this means is that any modulation of the throttle will result in a temperature swing on the outlet. Basically, assume the engine coolant is entering the engine at the same temperature all the time and you go from light throttle to flooring it for 20 seconds straight. You are now dumping way more heat into the coolant, but the coolant is entering the engine at the same temperature as it was when you were barely on the gas, so the temperature it comes out at(and what the temp sensor reads) will be much higher.

Hitting 220F briefly while under higher load is not a big deal. Or if you were towing a trailer than a constant 220F is pretty normal. If you were running a constant 220F just cruising down the freeway at light throttle then you might wanna be a little concerned.
After cruising on interstate and highway, it fluctuated between 210-241 at the highest on a grade. My only thought is turbo could be going bad. Everything on this cooling system has been replaced for the most part.
 

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You hit 241 without towing, but admittedly during a grade climb.

How aggressive would you describe your attempt to see how high the Temps would climb?

I ask in the context that while towing the RV up the Colorado grades, I can stay safely out of the 230's by using rpms rather than boost. But that IS me intervening "manually" to override the oem normal parameters. (which theoretically would indeed result in higher Temps. Perhaps the 230's & 240's)

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
  • You hit 241 without towing, but admittedly during a grade climb.

    How aggressive would you describe your attempt to see how high the Temps would climb?

    I ask in the context that while towing the RV up the Colorado grades, I can stay safely out of the 230's by using rpms rather than boost. But that IS me intervening "manually" to override the oem normal parameters. (which theoretically would indeed result in higher Temps. Perhaps the 230's & 240's)

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Not very aggressive. The temp is usually 220 from what I’ve seen but can easily jump up in the 30’s. Is the next step taking it to Ford and letting them diagnose? It hasn’t thrown a single code or heated enough to trigger anything.
 

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If you weren't in the boost and still hitting 240, then I agree that's not quite right. Especially with no tow load.



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could clogged cats be the issue ??
 
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