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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i figured I would document this a bit. I say my truck is “stockish” because it does have Bilstein 5100’s but they are only set to the 2nd groove from the bottom, which I believe works out to 0.79". Its barely leveled and may not be any higher than the stock truck was new since the springs have been holding up 6200 lbs for the last 6 years.

The VR602’s are a +12mm offset vs +48 for the stock wheels, so ~1.5” of additions “poke”. The wheels are also 9” wide vs my stock 20’s that at 8.5” so I get an additional 0.25” sticking out from that.

So here is the wheel mounted:



Here is a picture if the front of the tire and the air dam with the wheel turned right:



I could maybe fit a pinky in there, but other than rubber control arm bushings giving some play and letting the wheel move, it should clear. The air dam already sits at the same level as the hub so any up and down movement of the suspension should not cause the tire to get any close than it is.

Here is the rear of the front tire with the steering turned left:



Sorry for the terrible quality but it was a little dark and the iphone was angry. Its right up against the liner and catches the fender flare on the way back to straight.

This is all i have for now since I didn’t have time to start hacking things apart last night. Ill just break out the dremel and cutting wheel and start removing.

Oh and here is how much they stick out:

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was hoping an alignment and possibly running SPC UCA's would allow me to move the tire around to help clear but its apparent that either the front or back will need to be trimmed no matter where the tire is positioned
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
And actually, one thing I am a little confused on is the true offset of the factory wheels. Here is the spec page:

170230


Notice the 3rd column is labeled wheel "Inset". I wonder if they are measuring off the outer bead of the wheel in 44mm as opposed to 44mm from the center of the wheel. This would put the true offset at a 64.

I could just be misunderstand what inset means though but that term seems weird to me.
 

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Inset and Offset are the same term.

Offset is the more commonly used term. We nowadays say Positive Offset and Negative Offset.

Where originally Inset is Positive offset and Offset is negative offset.
 

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They look great just barely peaking outside the fender well.

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Those look good! Really fill up the wheel well nicely and not too much poke.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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They are not on quite yet.

View attachment 170237
Any plans to raise the height of the struts? That could help provide some additional clearance while minimizing the amount of cutting. Wheels and tires look great!


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any plans to raise the height of the struts? That could help provide some additional clearance while minimizing the amount of cutting. Wheels and tires look great!


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No because raising the ride height does not change where the suspension bottoms out. If its gunna rub at stock height, it will rub lifted as well if i get into a situation where the front suspension articulates. It will be less likely since there is more preload, but not impossible. I do wheel enough where I would run into issues.

Also, i wanna keep some rake since I tow my travel trailer quite a bit and it already causes the headlights to aim too high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another fun fact. I am gaining less than 2 lbs per wheel/tire.

Stock 20’s with P275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs:



VR-602 with LT315/70R17 BFG T/A KO2 C range:



Thats actually the largest spread i saw. I reweighted each combo 4 times and was getting 85.x stock and 86.x for the VR602.
 

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I run 315/70r17 with a +34mm offset. I have my kings set to 1” since I tow a lot. I had minimal rubbing. But those two spots you pointed out I did some trimming.

The front valence I basically just trimmed down the corner. Then the rear fender liner I rounded the arch out a bit. That’s it. No issues and on my second set.
 

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Another fun fact. I am gaining less than 2 lbs per wheel/tire.

Stock 20’s with P275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs:



VR-602 with LT315/70R17 BFG T/A KO2 C range:



Thats actually the largest spread i saw. I reweighted each combo 4 times and was getting 85.x stock and 86.x for the VR602.
That’s the real nice thing about those wheels, super light


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They are on. It took a lot more cutting than i was hoping and may need to trim a little more even.

Passenger side back of front wheel well before:



After. Trimmed the liner cut off the fender flare where it turns in and am still getting rubbing in the bottom corner of the liner:



The rear of the drivers side was all of that plus some:



Front of the wheel wells on both sides got the air dam trimmed. Before:



After:



I think i am probably gunna have to trim more even. I did disconnect the sway bar and put the truck on ramps to get each side to compress and make sure i had clearance as the suspension cycled:






 

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Looks good and meaty!


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·



I get a little rubbing pulling into the parking lot at the grocery store. I think i may have to see if i can get the alignment done to push the tires forward a bit.

I am a little surprised that these tires are noticeably louder than the duratracs. I expected them to maybe be the same or even a little quieter based in how people talk but my Duratracs were quite a bit less noisy. Not sure if its the width or what.
 

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I mean absolutely no offense with this comment. With any mod like this there are trade-offs. It looks great but you either end up without crash bars or needing to trim pieces that are best left hanging on the truck. I personally am not a fan of either.

Trying to align a vehicle for spacing the tire within the wheel simply isn’t the best idea. You’re likely giving up caster or caster angles to compensate for tire fit. I’m a believer that the tires should fit and then you align it where it was designed to be set plus or minus to get a wide tire flat on the ground but not to center the tire.

I personally believe you’re just a bit beyond in tire size what is in the best interest of tire wear and best handling characteristics for your truck. On the other hand you’ve pretty much discovered what the size/offset limits are for this application. It does look very nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I mean absolutely no offense with this comment. With any mod like this there are trade-offs. It looks great but you either end up without crash bars or needing to trim pieces that are best left hanging on the truck. I personally am not a fan of either.

Trying to align a vehicle for spacing the tire within the wheel simply isn’t the best idea. You’re likely giving up caster or caster angles to compensate for tire fit. I’m a believer that the tires should fit and then you align it where it was designed to be set plus or minus to get a wide tire flat on the ground but not to center the tire.

I personally believe you’re just a bit beyond in tire size what is in the best interest of tire wear and best handling characteristics for your truck. On the other hand you’ve pretty much discovered what the size/offset limits are for this application. It does look very nice.
Thats what the SPC UCA’s could get me. They allow you to swing both the upper the lower arm forward and keep the alignment in spec instead of just moving the lower arm and rolling the spindle and throwing off the caster.

And yeah, i agree. The biggest issue is the +12mm wheel offset not so much the tire size. I actually wish they were more like +25 as they poke out a little more than i would like anyways. I think if these were on stock offset 17’s or even stock raptor wheels i might have been ok.

I have not cut any metal or hard pieces, only the fender liner, and the inside edge of the fender flare. The flares are still full secured as they were before cutting.

My thing is i would rather just trim off another 1/4” of air dam than more stuff behind the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I mean absolutely no offense with this comment. With any mod like this there are trade-offs. It looks great but you either end up without crash bars or needing to trim pieces that are best left hanging on the truck. I personally am not a fan of either.

Trying to align a vehicle for spacing the tire within the wheel simply isn’t the best idea. You’re likely giving up caster or caster angles to compensate for tire fit. I’m a believer that the tires should fit and then you align it where it was designed to be set plus or minus to get a wide tire flat on the ground but not to center the tire.

I personally believe you’re just a bit beyond in tire size what is in the best interest of tire wear and best handling characteristics for your truck. On the other hand you’ve pretty much discovered what the size/offset limits are for this application. It does look very nice.
And tbh, this is why I made this thread. I knew i wasnt gunna be easy. I knew i could crank my Bilsteins up to 2.1” and probably clear 99% of the time. But thats not what I wanted to do.
 
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