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While I understand what these control arms give you, you’re still changing the Set Back, Steering Axis Inclination (SAI) hence changing the Included Angle (IA) too. These angles are often not discussed because for the most part they are not adjustable (IA is the sum of the camber and SAI) angles and are designed into the inherent geometry of the frame and parts. These angles still help determine how a vehicle handles, particularly during cornering.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
While I understand what these control arms give you, you’re still changing the Set Back, Steering Axis Inclination (SAI) hence changing the Included Angle (IA) too. These angles are often not discussed because for the most part they are not adjustable (IA is the sum of the camber and SAI) angles and are designed into the inherent geometry of the frame and parts. These angles still help determine how a vehicle handles, particularly during cornering.
And any suspension lift, uca upgrades, etc would all cause the same issues, would they not?
 

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It’s true, any mod that changes the relationship of the steering knuckle to the frame could potentially cause problems. Hopefully the Set Back will be equal from side to side. If you were to run into issues it would likely be there. Simply because you’re adjusting for clearance and that takes into consideration things like body panel placement. Body panel placement is a tough thing to account for side to side.

I’m certainly not saying you will experience problems however if you should you know where to look. Most alignment machines will show you these angles even though they are not adjustable. Lots of shops just turn them off in the printout.
 

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I'm digging the sudden dive into alignment geometry discussion. For whatever reason, I enjoy an improvement in handling dynamics more than I enjoy an increase in wheel-horse-power.

Regardless, I LOVE how the truck looks now. Honestly, you have barely had to trim. And you haven't had to alter anything that would be too painful to live with. If the rub you have left isn't going to munch or damage anything, then I personally would be thrilled with the result.



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Hey mass, got a question. I have 20" 602's on 35x12's with a 6" lift. No issues lock to lock. I want to go down to 4", but I'm concerned it might rub on the inside. Do you think that'll be an issue or should i just install the suspension and see?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hey mass, got a question. I have 20" 602's on 35x12's with a 6" lift. No issues lock to lock. I want to go down to 4", but I'm concerned it might rub on the inside. Do you think that'll be an issue or should i just install the suspension and see?
What do you mean on the inside?

I doubt you would have any rubbing at 4”, like i said, I am at basically 0” and am just catching the fender liner and the air dam. At 4” your tire should be well below all that stuff. Maybe when the suspension flexes hard it could rub.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Couple of weird things ive noticed:

1. My mpg’s have not dropped much, if any, on my normal daily driving. This mostly consists of 55 mph 2 lane roads and some small town driving(2 stop lights in town.) ive always kinda gotten 17.5-18.5 in the summer and 15.5-16.5 in the winter. After a week of driving on the 315/70R17’s i am currently at 16.8 with the speedo corrected to perfection.

2. I never got any TPMS warning until today. I think i have put 150-200 miles on the truck and honestly had completely forgotten about it. Today I was driving and a message popped up saying “TPMS fault”. I found it odd that it took that long.
 
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Couple of weird things ive noticed:

1. My mpg’s have not dropped much, if any, on my normal daily driving. This mostly consists of 55 mph 2 lane roads and some small town driving(2 stop lights in town.) ive always kinda gotten 17.5-18.5 in the summer and 15.5-16.5 in the winter. After a week of driving on the 315/70R17’s i am currently at 16.8 with the speedo corrected to perfection.

2. I never got any TPMS warning until today. I think i have put 150-200 miles on the truck and honestly had completely forgotten about it. Today I was driving and a message popped up saying “TPMS fault”. I found it odd that it took that long.
Are you planning to disable in forscan or bite the bullet and transfer TPMS from stock wheels?


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Discussion Starter #29
Are you planning to disable in forscan or bite the bullet and transfer TPMS from stock wheels?


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Ill disable it until i get new tires which will be in 5 years at this rate
 
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Discussion Starter #30
Other than the added road noise, I am actually liking how the truck drives better on this setup than it did with the 275/60R20's. Not sure if the Duratracs just were not as good or what, but I feel like the truck handles a little better on the street. And I like that the effective gearing is a little taller. It runs about 100 rpm lower cruising around here and still has plenty of grunt to do it.

I am actually hoping this helps a little towing too. Before I realistically could not drop to 2nd gear with the 3.73's. With the RPM's being slightly lower I should be able to drop down to 2nd now at a slightly higher speed. Even though the tires are larger, the lower gear ratio should give me a better overall gear reduction and maybe help a little towing. With the old 33's I would be at 5800 rpm at 65mph in 2nd. With the 35's I will be at 5450.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
These KO2’s dont seem to do so hot in the snow. I was all over the place today. I don’t remember the duratracs being nearly so squirrelly.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah, they are definitely not as good in the snow. I skied with my cousin today and asked him. He has run Duratracs, Cooper STT Pros, KO2's and a few other A/T tires and said they were all better then the KO2's for him.

Just an FYI if anyone is wondering. They are better on dry pavement I would say, which amazed me considering I went from a 33" on a 20" wheel to a 35" on a 17" wheel. You would think the massive sidewall increase would be a lot squishier and not as responsive.
 

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This is surprising to say the least. We have not received much snow yet to test mine out but I am hoping and figuring anything is better than the stock Hankook’s that were on mine with 20 inch rim.


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I agree that the durtracks are better in the snow on roads. I think you see a little extra difference due to the extra width though. I can say on trails, my KO2’s consistently out performed my friends duratracs. It was quite frustrating for him and actually got kinda comical after a while. He is on 275’s vs my 305’s.


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Discussion Starter #35
The tire is pretty tight in the spare location, but does fit.






 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
So i bought new wheel well liners because i didnt like how exposed things were the way I cut them.



What i am gunna do is make a bracket that attaches to the bottom side of the body or maybe the frame and use some allthread to pull the liners back. Then use a heat gun to bend anything thats still in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Heres my brackets:




I am mounting them to the running board bolts:

 

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Discussion Starter #38
Put a little silicone sheet on the end to keep it from rubbing metal/metal:



Liner pulled back:



New clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So far so good on this mod. No rubbing at all.

I think after driving some more I am down 3/4 to 1 mpg. I am hovering around 15 right now and was high 15's or 16 prior to the wheels/tires.
 
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