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I just want my truck to run without being all Jeb Bush clakkity clack and you have to go posting the Ecoboost porn. Dang man. um Send me one for Christmas?

I have all my parts on order (both tensioners) and a factory service manual off ebay. I am ready for a timing chain P-A-R-T-Y!! You're all welcome to join me if you like....

 

View attachment 143129

I just want my truck to run without being all Jeb Bush clakkity clack and you have to go posting the Ecoboost porn. Dang man. um Send me one for Christmas?

I have all my parts on order (both tensioners) and a factory service manual off ebay. I am ready for a timing chain P-A-R-T-Y!! You're all welcome to join me if you like....[/QUOTE]

Just take the front clip off and do the work like a gentlemen. Not a big deal taking condenser out and you basically sit right in front of your work and go about it cleanly an d mythically.

Confirm oil drain backs are looking clean, feeds, VCT solenoids, garbage for sure!! Clean the 52 oil holes in mega cam cap!!!!!

No silicone dust in everything.

Soak silicone from engine timing cover with a few rags of gasoline and then scrap it with whatever it turns to much .

Confirm phasers are in correct positions and gears not turned 60* deg to where it should be and snout lines up.

Trust me front clips 20 min of work, leaning over like ford tech did is just so unnecessary it’s crazy.

 

Just picked up my truck from the dealer earlier today. They did the timing chain and all associated items listed on the TSB. No charge on my end. Runs great. They even replaced all the coil packs and new plugs and washed it. Happy, happy, happy.

 

Thanks for the nuggets of info! You know I thought about the front clip and condenser approach but I don't have the proper shop equipment to evacuate and capture the R134a. I see people on youtube just using a cheap vacuum pump and letting it evacuate to the atmosphere, but I'm pretty sure that's a Federal offense and not good on the environment. I suppose I could take it to a shop. Is there a way to do it without removing the condenser and refrigerant. I totally agree this is the best approach.

The mega cap to access the passages - I assume this involves removing all the camshaft caps and re-torquing? Don't tell me, TTY bolts right? Thanks for this, hadn't thought of that area, but makes complete sense.

Regarding cleanliness, I get all that, but when finished do you use oil to squirt down the face area to drain anything out of the oil pan? Any bits of dust would be forced out the drain hole? Is there a screen on the oil pump that can get clogged from sucking up the oil with bits in it? Just thinking of things to look at while I am in there. The front cover on this truck was previously removed to fix an oil leak, so I have no idea on how clean of a job they did. Just trying to keep my ecoboost from having another stroke!

 

Is there a gasket between the primary tensioner and the block? I haven't opened the engine up yet to look, but want to make sure I have all the parts.

 

No oring

 

Just had this timing chain TSB done and the mechanic informs me that I shouldn't run full synthetic oil because it's not good for this motor. Do you think I need to worry that this mechanic doesn't know ****. LOL

 

He obviously knows nothing about oil.

 

No he's doesn't. Truck runs like new again so hopefully he knew what he was doing.

 

Don't tell us, he directed you towards a synthetic blend with a Motorcraft label on it? Man these guys don't even try anymore. My dealer would try to sell me blinker fluid if I entertained them. It's almost like a cult. A cult of stupidity.

 

No he didn't say a brand but he acted like it was my fault the chain stretched because of using synthetic oil. I have always had good luck with this dealer when they work on my vehicles and the price is the best around. Yeah not going to change from synthetic and will dump the blend before long that they put in it.

 

So on the new primary chain tensioner I recieved, I was also told this supercedes the previous part and that they need new bolts. So I was subbed the new tensioner arm, the tensioner itself, and bolts for the tensioner which were added to my order. I have read the part of this thread where questions were raised about the new tensioner being problematic. I have a stock motor and don't plan to race the truck. Should I just install the updated part? I am still on the fence about this, because it doesn't seem like the tensioner was really the issue to begin with, however if the new tensioner was designed in conjunction with the updated tensioner arm, that may be good reason to use them together.

On the other hand, there's plenty of fixed trucks using the older tensioner, and actually I don't think the TSB even calls for replacing this part does it? Seems like they just reset it.

 

You should put a new old style ratcheting style tensioner on. The reason you should change it and replace it for the alike part is that the ratcheting gear/teeth wear on them, and and it is a part that requires changing. Pretty common, but I recommend changing it when you do the chain service

 

We see more failures with this new style tensioner. This is something that has been upgraded in the v8 world for a while now.

 

I won't argue with experience. I ordered one from Tasca but my order has been delayed. I assume this is holding it up because Ford site shows them on backorder.

 

Email me your Info.
Ryan@rmbmotorworks.com I think I can spare one for you.

 

So my 2011 has 98k miles on it and doesn’t appear to have these issues. I’ve always ran high quality oil. I’m I just running on borrowed time?

 

Mine is a 2012 with ~70K on it. It only rattles every so often after the oil has about 2500 miles on it. I bought it used and have changed the oil about 3 times with the Pennzoil full synthetic. The truck had a tune on it when I bought it, so god knows what the previous owner did to the truck before me. I also take trips where I am 1000's of miles from home, so I tend to be overly paranoid about these types of things. I want to do whatever I can to prevent a mishap while I am far from home. Also, I don't want to damage the engine by continuing to run it with an intermittent rattle - Just doesn't seem right in my opinion. From my research the 2011 & 2012's seem to have this issue the most. There were updates to parts involved, the phasers, VCT solenoids, guides, etc. which were implemented going into 2013 and newer from this generation. If your truck is not making the noise, I would not worry about it. There's plenty of trucks on the road that don't have this issue. I would however keep it in the back of your mind, that there's a possibility you may encounter this. Is it a ticking time bomb, IMO no. Is it likely to happen due to your year and mileage, I would suspect so. At your mileage most cars go through a timing chain/belt replacement anyway.

There is a way to check how much stretch you have on your chain by removing the passenger valve cover and scoping the tensioner. You basically count how many "teeth" the tensioner is pushed out. I don't recall the number, but if it's pushed out very far, your tensioner is at max or close to it. This is an indication that your chain has stretched beyond it's useful life and the noise will likely happen sooner or later. There's a good video on Youtube of a guy who removed the cab to do this repair. The first video he shows how to scope the tensioner. He also does the timing chain repair, but only replaces the timing chain and tensioner. I don't really agree with the way he does some of the repair (Pretty sloppy IMO) but there are some good tips in there.

 

Excellent explanation.
Much appreciated, especially since it is Saturday night and you don't HAVE to be doing this.

So if someone built a live gauge monitor using this pid, on their screen, they could watch this value live even if they weren't data logging?

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Thank you sir. Yes they can monitor it live on screen once added as a PID in a config file. If I am not mistaken on any sct devise and HPT. Have a nice weekend [emoji4]

 

OK, on the Ngauge the pid is called Actual Intake Cam Position Bank 1(or whichever bank/cam you choose)

I set it as a gauge lower left column
And check out the pid above!
New firmware supposedly enables OAR reading!
Matt has the tune set to poll for a reading once the truck hits 20mph. So sitting parked I can't verify it. (just loaded the firmware a few minutes ago)
If I understand it right, I'll read "1" if the OAR senses 93 octane. And less than 1 if not.

If it works, it'll be awesome!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Good info. I really like the “real” oil pressure reading. Is that available on 17+ trucks or is that something Tifosi whipped together for you?

 

That's just a picture in the dark of an Ngauge tuner. (the tuner that HPTuner tunes get loaded on) Remember, SCT was very delayed at cracking Gen2's. So Ngauge/HPTuner got the jump. That's why I bought.

It's a round tuner screen and I have it up by the A-pillar for glance-view

What you are seeing is a "6 gauge view" on the display.
So that's just 6 pids I chose to monitor
I don't need boost because Ford put a gorgeous Boost gauge available on the dash.

And finally no, Jerry drives one of those dinosaur trucks.

In fact, when he was railing on my 18, seasoning the Brembo pads, he thought he felt flutter at WOT high revs. Instead, I think it was because he got close to the lane lines on the road and my truck has a vibrator in the steering wheel that subtly Warns you of straying to the edge of the lane.

Ford has done a lot since 2011-12

Im just saying. Lol

 

Here is something I wanted to share. Don’t believe everything you see on YouTube, or whatever or whomever is saying or giving information.

Generally speaking, YouTube is not the best expert based knowledge.

Here Last week and this week I tore down a 2011 new ford oem long block assembly as well as a 2016 long block assembly. Both brand new long blocks with latest updated part numbers.

This is the tensioner ford uses, and to this day. So I’d suggest using the proper tensioner if you are doing this work yourself.

 

Why are you tearing up a 2016? Did it rattle? Or are you just using them to modify?

 

We often start with new factory oem long blocks for our builds. Today we tore down 2 new long blocks. They are a great base for a new build.

 

 

High performance frog tape... Better adhesive properties, low surface-friction nano coating, super strength kevlar cross-woven paper element, advanced-engineered high-contrast color scheme...

The shiny parts are pretty cool too

 

????

 

So I'm finally tearing into my truck and I got pretty far today. I had a stupid question hoping for quick answer. Can I leave my battery disconnected for days? a week? I don't know how long this repair is going to take me, but do I need to supply power to the PCM? I know it will reset the KAM being disconnected, but does it do any other damage if it's a long disconnect time before I hook the battery up again?

 

Before we get into the philosophical failings of Ford in regard to Ecoboost tech, anyone have any feedback regarding the battery disconnect? Am I good to leave it unhooked for days?

 

I think a lot of these problems develop from using regular fuel. I had a 2015 f-150 I just traded for a 2018. The 2015 had 43000 miles with no problems, but I never burned regular fuel, always premium or mid grade. I think this is a key to trouble free performance in the ecobost engines. Fine print says all performance is based on premium fuel.

 

Lol! Okay....

 

The thing I found to make these motors run problem free is to “drive it like you stole it”. [emoji23]?. Installing a catch can, change the plugs, and oil more frequently than normal. That will make these motors happy.


2012 screw 3.5L

 

Can anyone point to a single contributor to engine failure on these things? I have no data for this, but from observation it appears that engineering, manufacturing and a lack of significant QC combine with a complex and relatively new powerplant to end with several different failure modes. Unfortunately sometimes these failures are catastrophic.

Sometimes I really wish I bought an extended warranty on this thing.

 

I'll get killed for saying this probably, but I'm not convinced that a high percentage of these trucks suffer catastrophic damage from EARLY timing chain related issues.

Key words: Early & percentage

Having said that I AM convinced that these motors absolutely require the worn timing chain to be addressed when it reveals itself. It's just not a forgiving designed motor for a worn timing chain (and related components)

Now, I guess we can banter back and forth on what "early" is.

I'll admit I wish they lasted longer.

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Quick update on mine. It's been just over two weeks since I finished mine. I still hold my breath when I start it because if I hear a rattle I will probably lose it. I know everything I put in is damn near perfect but something just makes me not trust it in general. Gas mileage hasn't been much better than before, about 16 mpg but I drive it pretty hard.

The only thing that disappoints me is it still idles rough when it is cold. I was really hoping that was timing related but I guess not. I put new plugs/boots in when I replaced the timing components so I know that's not it. I should probably just ignore it because it isn't bad, just bothers my OCD.

 

Eco-Mouse? Literally.



I'm the same way. I keep finding things wrong from previous fixes, connector locking tabs broken, front cover sealant holding a coil connector on, etc. Just lazy ****. It's hard to draw the line and stop dumping money into it. Should I change these seals, those seals, etc.

I got the cover off an it's completely ready for the teardown of the chain, phasers and guides. It's taken me two days to get this far. I tried to do it "gentleman" style, but I have to keep that damn condenser connected. I have the radiator pulled because I am dropping in a FR radiator I just bought from another member. There's so much room I can sit in the engine bay and work. Not quite "gentleman" style, but I'll go with "Quasimoto" style. Still miles better than leaning over the fender on a stool. I bought a cheap endoscope on amazon and was having some fun checking my turbos and pipes out. I have a catch can for the last 8000 miles but still see oil collecting in the pipes. I have the hole in my CAC too. When I scoped the turbos they really clean. No residue at all. I could see the shafts and everything. Cool little device and it only costs $33.

To top everything off, after I got the intake off I could see an old mouse nest in the block just like MikeDick found in his! I was totally ROFL!! I hope now that I removed it the thing still starts. I don't know what's up with the bottom of the intake being such an ideal spot for mice.

Good to hear yours is still holding. I think you may need to start looking at O2 sensors or Cats regarding the mileage. I did scope my valves and they had deposits like other have posted. Didn't seem excessive to me, but they were black nonetheless. I may try the CRC stuff down the road .. One step at a time. . . .

 

Yeah I have to get back in there with the endoscope today. I see the wire towards the front, but is there one in the rear? Don't know if I want to scope the rear! The camera is really a great diagnostic. I'm going to scope the exhaust next to look for burn marks around the gaskets. Hard to see anything around that turbo.