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Regarding temps as a contributor to rattle, is it higher temps that cause more rattle or lower temps?

Colder the better. I'm in Minnesota so basically Nov - March the rattle isn't as much of an issue. I don't log this stuff, but I'd say that at about 30 degrees or lower (I realize that motor oil does not freeze but it does lose viscosity) it doesn't rattle at all. The cool (pun intended) thing about the temp variable is that if it's cold enough it really doesn't matter how long the truck is off for - I could park it for a week and there is no rattle.


Now before everyone starts moving to Minnesota, I have noticed that it's rattling after shorter and shorter "off" periods, it used to be that if it only sat for 20 min or less there was no rattle, now I get a quick rattle at about 10 minutes. I'm assuming that the cold causes the oil to lose viscosity which prevents the rattle. If the rattle is now developing in 10 minutes my days of counting on the cold may be over since the oil may not lose enough viscosity in that shorter time period. I'll find out in a few months....
 

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Ok, who out there is going to come up with a kit that monitors oil pressure and only allows the engine to start once a certain pressure is reached? All I ask for in exchange for the idea is for a free kit once it's developed and 10% of gross income. :cool:
 

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Cool, thanks for posting fun to see how the oil pressure comes up. So you're saying you do that every time you start it in order to prevent the rattle from ever developing? That is some next level effort!
ONLY on the first start of the day.
And only on days that the truck has sat a couple of days or longer.

There's definitely a correlation between how long it has sat and how many seconds it takes to get that pressure to suddenly ramp.

There's no evidence that my efforts are making any kind of difference. But the "theory" holds water, in my opinion. And I don't mind being that wierd guy. Lol

YOU, whether you realize it or not, actually lend credibility to the theory.



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ONLY on the first start of the day.
And only on days that the truck has sat a couple of days or longer.

There's definitely a correlation between how long it has sat and how many seconds it takes to get that pressure to suddenly ramp.

There's no evidence that my efforts are making any kind of difference. But the "theory" holds water, in my opinion. And I don't mind being that wierd guy. Lol

YOU, whether you realize it or not, actually lend credibility to the theory.



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Absolutely! I'd be doing the same if I didn't have the rattle already.
 

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Sorry for the dumb question but how do you keep the engine from starting? Just keep the key turned all the way in the ignition?
 

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Sorry for the dumb question but how do you keep the engine from starting? Just keep the key turned all the way in the ignition?
Keep the throttle pegged to the floor. It won't start.
The second you start letting up on the throttle it will light up

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Keep the throttle pegged to the floor. It won't start.
The second you start letting up on the throttle it will light up

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Very good idea, and it does work. So those who have an issue already and are doing this, it will prevent accelerated wear within the components. The clack is the lack of oil in the phasers so building oil pressure is a sure way to get more life out of it and not bad in anyway for the engine
 

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Very good idea, and it does work. So those who have an issue already and are doing this, it will prevent accelerated wear within the components. The clack is the lack of oil in the phasers so building oil pressure is a sure way to get more life out of it and not bad in anyway for the engine
I wonder if folks know that I never asked you or put you on the spot about this procedure?

Honestly, I was thinking you would roll your eyes. Lol

Regardless, I actually don't dread the eventual timing-chain-phaser repair as much as I did previously since I now know that the Gen2 issue has spawned some serious aftermarket focus.



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I wonder if folks know that I never asked you or put you on the spot about this procedure?

Honestly, I was thinking you would roll your eyes. Lol

Regardless, I actually don't dread the eventual timing-chain-phaser repair as much as I did previously since I now know that the Gen2 issue has spawned some serious aftermarket focus.



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We are looking very good!!


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I'm looking at doing this soon to my 2011. Any advice or special tools anyone could loan? I'm going to buy the new kit in tsb 18-2305 along with a "tensioner kit" (comes with almost everything), new tensioner, water pump (because it's one less thing to clean if I buy it new), and ford sealant for the cover.

I looked at getting new timing chain guides and see that the one on the tensioner is discontinued...wtf
 

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My truck sounds like someone is shaking a 5 gallon metal drum half way filled with marbles every time I cold start. A warm (not hot) start sounds like someone jiggled the drum instead of a strong shake.

I'm praying the timing components don't come flying through the cover before I get around to installing this motor from RMB...
 

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My truck sounds like someone is shaking a 5 gallon metal drum half way filled with marbles every time I cold start. A warm (not hot) start sounds like someone jiggled the drum instead of a strong shake.

I'm praying the timing components don't come flying through the cover before I get around to installing this motor from RMB...
I don't want to laugh. So I won't.

But our strategy for WHEN to swap motors is very similar!



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I don't want to laugh. So I won't.

But our strategy for WHEN to swap motors is very similar!
You're broke, too?

I don't want to laugh. So I wont. ;)
 
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