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Ok so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently. I hope this helps.

 

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Always appreciate your posts.
 

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Thanks for the video.

I bought the SP-534s and they were pre-gapped to about .031 and the old ones I pulled out had gaps ranging from .040-.044. I think my truck runs worse on the new ones gapped at .031, how is that possible? I didn't replace the boots like you show above. Any advice? Wondering if I should pull them and regap wider or smaller and replace the boots. It's pretty frustrating...
 

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Great video. I found your video on changing plugs on 3.5L Edge which helped me a ton this weekend. I definitely will reference this new video when I change plugs again.

I broke one of the red clips on my right rear plug. It fits securely but can those clips be replaced?
 

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Great video. I found your video on changing plugs on 3.5L Edge which helped me a ton this weekend. I definitely will reference this new video when I change plugs again.

I broke one of the red clips on my right rear plug. It fits securely but can those clips be replaced?
I broke one too but I would not worry about it. As long as the plug locks into the receiving end, it'll be fine. I believe you'd have to cut off the old plug and put on a new one.
 

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At one point did the engines start coming with correctly gapped plugs, or do they? Would I need to check them on my 14?
 

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Mine came with the right gaps but I'd still check them no matter what.
 

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Thanks for the video.

I bought the SP-534s and they were pre-gapped to about .031 and the old ones I pulled out had gaps ranging from .040-.044. I think my truck runs worse on the new ones gapped at .031, how is that possible? I didn't replace the boots like you show above. Any advice? Wondering if I should pull them and regap wider or smaller and replace the boots. It's pretty frustrating...
Make sure all the connections are plugged back in
 

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Make sure all the connections are plugged back in
Everything is together. I even recently installed the RX can and cleaned my intake valves. But the new plugs is what really made things worse from what I can tell. What would you guys try first to figure this out? Are some trucks doing better with wider gaps?
 

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Everything is together. I even recently installed the RX can and cleaned my intake valves. But the new plugs is what really made things worse from what I can tell. What would you guys try first to figure this out? Are some trucks doing better with wider gaps?
Are you getting a cel?

When you brake boost it and floor it, does it stumple or just roll smoothly off?

How far have you drove it since the plugs?

It takes the plugs about 5-600 miles to finally run right. I don't know if its contamination, plating, ecu homing itself or what. Unless the truck would throw a CEL or had an obvious problem, most of the time when we put plugs in, The truck has a relaxed feel to it for a while, it does not miss, but it drops about 1-2mpg for a while. After some run cycles and a few miles it starts coming back. With all the changes you just made, give is some time.
 

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Are you getting a cel?

When you brake boost it and floor it, does it stumple or just roll smoothly off?

How far have you drove it since the plugs?

It takes the plugs about 5-600 miles to finally run right. I don't know if its contamination, plating, ecu homing itself or what. Unless the truck would throw a CEL or had an obvious problem, most of the time when we put plugs in, The truck has a relaxed feel to it for a while, it does not miss, but it drops about 1-2mpg for a while. After some run cycles and a few miles it starts coming back. With all the changes you just made, give is some time.
No CEL, I almost wish it would so I could know.

It's been around 500 miles or so on the new plugs, I did those before my other mods and it ran worse after those alone. I didn't have the time to mess with it or put the old plugs back yet. Then I did the can and cleaning of the intake valves to see if that would have an effect. Truck seems more responsive but it's still missing, it may even be missing more now, feels like it might be getting worse. I feel like it was missing more with the new plugs right off the bat, is that what you experience too with new plugs? Doesn't sound like that should happen...

Have not tried brake boosting but I can and will report back.
 

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Possible you have a bad plug, or insulator cracked on you during install. Every bit possible for a bad coil too. Do you have any way to watch the misfire monitors?
 

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Possible you have a bad plug, or insulator cracked on you during install. Every bit possible for a bad coil too. Do you have any way to watch the misfire monitors?
No, I wish I did. The install issue is possible, I plan to remove them tomorrow morning and look at them.

But if I had a bad coil why would it run worse on the new plugs at the preferred lower gap?
 

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I feel like it was missing more with the new plugs right off the bat, is that what you experience too with new plugs? Doesn't sound like that should happen...
Nope shouldn't you could have a bad plug, vacuum leak etc.

Brake boost starting these things will cause a bad plug or two to light the cel and cause it to flash. I don't know why it won't otherwise. look fast though, because the light will go off within a couple minutes.

scan tool with cylinder balance would help you quickly.
 
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