F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

121 - 140 of 168 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,653 Posts
While you might not consider it progress, as a follower of this thread I am happy to see that the process of elimination has indeed made progress.

It's not the CAC. That's something!

That brake dragging certainly is a suspect for fuel economy. At least some of it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
While you might not consider it progress, as a follower of this thread I am happy to see that the process of elimination has indeed made progress.

It's not the CAC. That's something!

That brake dragging certainly is a suspect for fuel economy. At least some of it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I agree. Going to rectify that as soon as possible.
However, at WOT, I am not cracking 15psi anymore. :/
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,653 Posts
I agree. Going to rectify that as soon as possible.
However, at WOT, I am not cracking 15psi anymore. :/
Yea, you still have to track down the power output being diminished. And it's very likely to be a contributor to the fuel efficiency drop too.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
Yea, you still have to track down the power output being diminished. And it's very likely to be a contributor to the fuel efficiency drop too.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Can you or anyone recommend someone who knows a little bit more than I, anywhere in the eastern part of the US?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
Dealership says nothing is wrong. I’m just taking my truck back today.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,653 Posts
Do you have any way to data log?

Wonder if one of the tuner gurus around could see where the logs don't look right and perhaps deduct what might be under performing?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #127
164383
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #128
Do you have any way to data log?

Wonder if one of the tuner gurus around could see where the logs don't look right and perhaps deduct what might be under performing?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Yes I can use forscan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
164385
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
I did a few things today in lieu of studying...

I went back to the dealership in an attempt to hold them accountable for the horrible diagnosis. I let them know that my passenger front calipers was sticking. They told me their first attempt included them checking their computer system and looking at the wastegates but had no numbers for me. Their service guy came out and spoke to me.... Long story short.

1) My pads are on wrong.
2) He checked everything with a computer except my waste gates, which he checked under vacuum by hand and they operated as should...

I left, thinking I was an idiot who called them out only for them to tell me I messed up. But I went home and got to work to see if I could rectify this gas and performance issue.

First thing I noticed was the pads were in fact on correctly, with the humps towards the inside of the caliper. I was pretty pissed. Filmed and took pictures.

Since the wheel was off, a worked to take the heat tape off, free the boost solinoid, disconent the vacuum hose off the BOV cover, and removed the BOV. It was intact.
I then unplugged the boost solinoid, actuated the boost solinoid with a 12v battery, which allowed ALOT of air to be release from that hose that I had unplugged from the BOV.
  • Is that Normal?
  • Where would all that positive pressure be releasing from? I do not have a schematic of that passenger solinoid.
164400


Next, I took my MityVac I had just bought. I attached it to BOV nipple and gave it positive pressure. It completely leaked through. No resistance. Again, no tears in the diaphragm
  • Is this normal?
Finally, I went to the top of the engine bay, found the T-fitting with the vacuum hoses that go to both waste gates, and attached the MityVac to it. I found...
  • Both wastegates crack at 5-6PSI
  • Both wastegates reach fully open at about 11-13PSI
Remember, while driving, I cannot reach 18PSI like I used to.

So what does everyone think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
So if I apply positive pressure into my BOV nipple and it immediately leaks out, is that bad?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Does your BOV vent to atmosphere? If so going down the road at heavy boost you'd hear the leak until letting off.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
Does your BOV vent to atmosphere? If so going down the road at heavy boost you'd hear the leak until letting off.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
It is VTA. but I honestly can’t isolate that sound at all.
On of them is working because I can hear then vent. I barely hear the turbo whistle though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
Well, according to the basics of turbos + BOV, what is happening to my passenger side shouldn’t be happening. There should not be any leak at all as this is designed as a reference. So it’s not closing the piston and constantly venting.
164407


Looks like I will either need new OEM or the turbosmart upgraded ones.
Again, I found this by applying positive pressure to number 1 in this picture, the reference port that controls the piston.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,012 Posts
@Pitbull2o08 ? Shouldn’t that be vacuum to #1? Or what your saying is that pressure is escaping as you put air pressure to #1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I did a few things today in lieu of studying...

I went back to the dealership in an attempt to hold them accountable for the horrible diagnosis. I let them know that my passenger front calipers was sticking. They told me their first attempt included them checking their computer system and looking at the wastegates but had no numbers for me. Their service guy came out and spoke to me.... Long story short.

1) My pads are on wrong.
2) He checked everything with a computer except my waste gates, which he checked under vacuum by hand and they operated as should...

I left, thinking I was an idiot who called them out only for them to tell me I messed up. But I went home and got to work to see if I could rectify this gas and performance issue.

First thing I noticed was the pads were in fact on correctly, with the humps towards the inside of the caliper. I was pretty pissed. Filmed and took pictures.

Since the wheel was off, a worked to take the heat tape off, free the boost solinoid, disconent the vacuum hose off the BOV cover, and removed the BOV. It was intact.
I then unplugged the boost solinoid, actuated the boost solinoid with a 12v battery, which allowed ALOT of air to be release from that hose that I had unplugged from the BOV.
  • Is that Normal?
  • Where would all that positive pressure be releasing from? I do not have a schematic of that passenger solinoid.
View attachment 164400

Next, I took my MityVac I had just bought. I attached it to BOV nipple and gave it positive pressure. It completely leaked through. No resistance. Again, no tears in the diaphragm
  • Is this normal?
Finally, I went to the top of the engine bay, found the T-fitting with the vacuum hoses that go to both waste gates, and attached the MityVac to it. I found...
  • Both wastegates crack at 5-6PSI
  • Both wastegates reach fully open at about 11-13PSI
Remember, while driving, I cannot reach 18PSI like I used to.

So what does everyone think?
Since you now have a mighty vac, you should do a pressure/vacuum test on the vacuum lines and the intake system. It will require fabricating a couple end caps to clamp into place on the intake system (one having a 1/4” air fitting in place to hook up to) and caping off a nipple or two as necessary for the intake system, and will require plugging a hose end or two to check pressure/vac lines. You’ll want to take note of check valves and their direction of flow obviously, but a couple hours doing this could find your problem and at a minimum rule out a couple more big variables.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Since you now have a mighty vac, you should do a pressure/vacuum test on the vacuum lines and the intake system. It will require fabricating a couple end caps to clamp into place on the intake system (one having a 1/4” air fitting in place to hook up to) and caping off a nipple or two as necessary for the intake system, and will require plugging a hose end or two to check pressure/vac lines. You’ll want to take note of check valves and their direction of flow obviously, but a couple hours doing this could find your problem and at a minimum rule out a couple more big variables.
Make sure to do both a pressure AND vacuum test on these systems with respect to realizing you will have to pressurize/vacuum from a couple different points and coincidently move your line caps/plugs.
It’s really not too difficult, and I can all but guarantee they didn’t spend the time to do it at the dealership.
If you get a decent amount of change in psi after pulling vacuum/adding pressure to the system over a minimum of 15-30 seconds, it’s definitely significant enough to chase down with a spray bottle of soapy water. I wouldn’t be too concerned with dropping a psi or two over 60+ seconds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
Since you now have a mighty vac, you should do a pressure/vacuum test on the vacuum lines and the intake system. It will require fabricating a couple end caps to clamp into place on the intake system (one having a 1/4” air fitting in place to hook up to) and caping off a nipple or two as necessary for the intake system, and will require plugging a hose end or two to check pressure/vac lines. You’ll want to take note of check valves and their direction of flow obviously, but a couple hours doing this could find your problem and at a minimum rule out a couple more big variables.
I would like to do this but would need a little bit more specific of instruction to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
@Pitbull2o08 ? Shouldn’t that be vacuum to #1? Or what your saying is that pressure is escaping as you put air pressure to #1
1 in that picture should seal regardless, as there's a gradient that oscillates the diaphragm back and forth based on the charge piping pressure:intake pressure ratio. However, my BOV literally aren't' sealing, whether positive pressure or negative pressure. Unless negative pressure is the ONLY control of these BOV, then maybe my Solenoids aren't working appropriately either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I would like to do this but would need a little bit more specific of instruction to do it.
Can definitely help you there. Give me a bit to get back with you, as I have a couple things going currently and the details will take a bit of typing.
On your BOV’s, they do operate under vacuum. Open up the throttle plate, they see boost (and a bit of vacuum depending on how heavy of acceleration) and will stay closed. Let off the gas, and they see vacuum in order to open up and release the pressure in the system to prevent damage to turbocharge and other related intake components. They remain closed under lighter amounts of vacuum because the amount of spring pressure required to keep the BOV closed is calculated and thus preset on OEM applications, generally speaking, as opposed to an adjustable TurboSmart BOV which gives the user the ability to fine tune the amount of spring pressure based on what specific application/setup requires. Others may come with a few different springs varying in rigidity to achieve the same result.

I’ll get back with ya on the procedures.
Thanks.
 
121 - 140 of 168 Posts
Top