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Discussion Starter #1
So I just got my new 2014 XLT SCREW with the max tow a few weeks ago!! It has less than 600 miles on it and I took it on a 100 mile round trip to pick up some wood flooring. Total weight was around 6k counting the trailer and on my way home I stopped to top off the tank and could smell the brakes. At first I thought it was the trailer brakes and assumed I had the gain set to high. It turned out to be my front breaks and when I touched the rotors they were scorching hot. I was on the highway and and didn't overuse the brakes. Any ideas on what may have caused them to get that hot?? Had the trailer break set at 6.5.
 

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The way to check if your gain is correct is to get rolling about 25 mph and activate just the trailer brakes. Set them to a setting that puts them on the cusp of locking up.


The boost will set you free
 

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Well it wont take long for your brakes to heat up, and its normal for the rotors to be hot, especially for having all the extra weight. Get a temp gun like ford4thot said and make sure all the rotors are somewhat the same, fronts should be warmer than the rears. If you were not barely doing any braking then the smell is not normal, but if you were braking frequently then your probably ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This was last week so my memory may be off but the back brakes were around 95-100 and the front brakes were 200-220.
 

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as far as im concerned the factory semi metalic brakes are crap
i suggest if you plan on doing alot of towing get some ceramics put on and get rid of the heat and wheel dust all in one shot.

with 600 miles on a new truck you shouldnt be towing as part of the break in period in the first place and the brakes are probably not fully seated causing the heat build up or they could even be dragging.
 

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Be careful because a lot of ceramic pads are not good for towing. Unless something changed


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as far as im concerned the factory semi metalic brakes are crap
i suggest if you plan on doing alot of towing get some ceramics put on and get rid of the heat and wheel dust all in one shot.

with 600 miles on a new truck you shouldnt be towing as part of the break in period in the first place and the brakes are probably not fully seated causing the heat build up or they could even be dragging.
Ceramic pads DO NOT get rid of the heat. They simply don't absorb it. This means that that heat is absorbed by the rotor instead of the pads/caliper. This causes your rotor to get a lot hotter than it would with a pad like the stock ones that absorb heat. With your rotor this much hotter it actually tempers when it cools. Because this tempering isn't a TRUE tempering it isn't consistant. Now when you get your rotors turned for your next brake job you will have a rotor surface that has partial tempering because some of it was cut away during turning and the depth of the tempering wasn't consistant. This will leave you with a rotor that more easily slips through the calipers grip in spots and bites harder in others. This creates a pronounced shutter in your braking. I learned this the hard way with my Ford Lightning. 140+mph blasts and the ceramic brake pads did exactly this to my rotors. My brake jobs were new pads and rotors everytime if I used ceramics. Rotors could not be used after turning due to the 'tempering' they received.

Yeah they reduce brake dust just be aware at what cost. You may NEVER encounter this condition if you don't get them hot enough or cool them fast enough. I'm sure Ecoboost F-150s will be hitting 140+ soon enough and being that they are much heavier than a Lightning I'm sure the brakes will get even hotter while stopping it.
 

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LOL @ ceramic brakes on a truck. Dude, you think your brakes are hot at 200 degrees? You'd have melted your finger instantly on my M3's brakes after a track session.
 

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i loved the brakes i had on my other truck but yes they were a ceramic composite pad not full ceramic.
towing i never smelled hot brakes or had brakes fade from heat or any type of brake dust.
yes they are harder on rotors but i eventually added a set of cross drilled rotors for fairly cheap and what a difference in braking.
i own 2 trailers and neither one has electric brakes on them so i rely on brakes more than some others do.
that is towing between 3,000 lbs and 8,800 lbs with braking solely done by the truck.

so yes there are pros and cons to it but the compounds have changed over the past few yrs
 

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i loved the brakes i had on my other truck but yes they were a ceramic composite pad not full ceramic.
towing i never smelled hot brakes or had brakes fade from heat or any type of brake dust.
yes they are harder on rotors but i eventually added a set of cross drilled rotors for fairly cheap and what a difference in braking.
i own 2 trailers and neither one has electric brakes on them so i rely on brakes more than some others do.
that is towing between 3,000 lbs and 8,800 lbs with braking solely done by the truck.

so yes there are pros and cons to it but the compounds have changed over the past few yrs
Ok, FYI towing 8,800 with no trailer brakes is illegal. Anything with a gvwr of 3,500 lbs or more is legally required to have trailer brakes. Some people on here have a pet peeve about racing on here. My pet peeve is towing 8,800 lbs with no trailer brakes.

Whoever sold you cross drilled rotors was an idiot, they are also not for towing.


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Ceramic pads DO NOT get rid of the heat. They simply don't absorb it. This means that that heat is absorbed by the rotor instead of the pads/caliper. This causes your rotor to get a lot hotter than it would with a pad like the stock ones that absorb heat. With your rotor this much hotter it actually tempers when it cools. Because this tempering isn't a TRUE tempering it isn't consistant. Now when you get your rotors turned for your next brake job you will have a rotor surface that has partial tempering because some of it was cut away during turning and the depth of the tempering wasn't consistant. This will leave you with a rotor that more easily slips through the calipers grip in spots and bites harder in others. This creates a pronounced shutter in your braking. I learned this the hard way with my Ford Lightning. 140+mph blasts and the ceramic brake pads did exactly this to my rotors. My brake jobs were new pads and rotors everytime if I used ceramics. Rotors could not be used after turning due to the 'tempering' they received.

Yeah they reduce brake dust just be aware at what cost. You may NEVER encounter this condition if you don't get them hot enough or cool them fast enough. I'm sure Ecoboost F-150s will be hitting 140+ soon enough and being that they are much heavier than a Lightning I'm sure the brakes will get even hotter while stopping it.
I would not recommend turning the rotors on these f150's. They don't have a lot of meat on them. My friend who is a mechanic thought they looked small and so he called his buddy who is a tech for Ford. He said that the dealer he works at has had all the rotors on the new f150's came back warped. They get too thin and so they can't take the heat.


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exactly thats why i didnt go slow or have my 4 ways flashing to attract attention.
and yes the cross drilled rotors were for street racing not towing but they worked double duty.
 

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Also, I'm not attacking you Brian. Cuz I just reread what I posted and it sounds like it. But I'm more concerned with your safety and of those around you


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hey its the internet !
i agree with you but i have tendencies to break the law repeatedly, its in my nature.
i would love to put brakes on my big trailer but its a real PITA and it didnt come with um so i use it the way it is.
i did add steel to it to make it stronger and also added shocks to help with the ride but havent got to brakes yet.

unfortunately i cant just not tow with it because it may or may not be over weight a couple hundred or thousand pounds

also what you have to consider is i dont live in CA
i live in a little hick town just outside of the woods in PA where they close off the sidewalks when it gets dark so nobody will trip over the cracks.
i live in the middle of farm fields and shoot animals to eat for food.
 

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Yeah usually you have to change the whole axle. They don't just retrofit onto most axles. And most trailers it's not even worth it. Cheaper and easier to buy a different trailer


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actually i think i would take a whole axle out of a truck and weld all my own mounts up but its still a **** load of work and then to have to convert to electric yet.
i did see a few yrs back some kind of trailer tongue that had a master cylinder that was spring loaded on it for hyd brake conversions.

so i cant say i havent considered or looked at doin it
 

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Cross drilled rotors on a truck? Ugh. Those holes aren't going to help you for **** unless you have cooling ducts and are hitting 100mph+, then stopping, the going back to 100+mph, and repeating. They are not going to hold up to constant on-braking like you say you're doing. Slotted are better.
 

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actually i think i would take a whole axle out of a truck and weld all my own mounts up but its still a **** load of work and then to have to convert to electric yet.
i did see a few yrs back some kind of trailer tongue that had a master cylinder that was spring loaded on it for hyd brake conversions.

so i cant say i havent considered or looked at doin it
In reading your comments about trailer operation Brian it seems that your not very knowledgeable on how they work.
Second if you are towing a trailer containing several thousands pounds with an itty bitty F-150 and no brakes you are putting a lot of people lives in danger.
I've towed a lot of trailers and personally I'd never even consider towing 8K or more with my 150 if the trailer did not have electric brakes. If it only had surge brakes I'd never put it behind the 150 but instead opt for the much more qualified F-350.
You may want to talk with a reputable trailer salesman and read up on the theory of operation with respect to trailer brakes and how they work.
 

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Not everyone can afford to have the best most safest trailer setups. Give the guy a break. I know I've towed fairly heavy behind my jeep without trailer brakes and that's way more sketch then towing with a full size truck. But nobody got hurt and I didn't feel like anyone else was in danger. You simply drive accordingly if over capacity for your setup if you have to.
 
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