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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i have a XDI Evo and a DW400 in tank and have the truck tuned for E85. Truck has ran great for 6 months, absolutely no issues at around 48 lb/min air flow and E85. I noticed about a month or 2 ago (getting colder here in iowa) that my truck was mis firing at WOT and i watch fuel pressure and it was dropping to 1000-1200 psi at WOT. Very bad. I thought maybe i was hitting some higher boost numbers due to cold weather, and sure enough I seen 52lb min for a sec. So figured I just needed a tune that backs down the boost.. So I continue to drive the truck and just don't get on the throttle. Some weeks go by and I test it again and I see pressure start to tank at only 34 lb min air flow. Which is way less flow than my summer numbers. This leads me to believe I for sure have a fuel pressure issue.

I pulled the in tank pump tonight, and have some metal and dirt on the tank filter, and a little junk in the tank. (the tank/filter was absolutely clean when i changed this pump 6 months ago at 140k miles). So in the last 10k miles or so, debris has gotten into the tank. I'm not sure this is enough to cause any flow issues though.

Looking for any advice on where to go. Should i just buy a new in tank pump? Anything to look for on my HPFP? Its sounds good and normal. Do HPFP's wipe cams often?


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not sure how to tell where it came from. It is odd that I went so many miles and had a clean tank. But 1 bad fuel station could ruin that.
 

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I’m no help, but I’m following..

any way to test the pump? It obviously still works to an extent.
Is the debris from the pump, or from fuel?
You could flow test it and see if it puts out what it should. But it may act up after some usage from an electrical issue and not necessarily a pumping element issue….
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea Im not sure I could get the voltage right to measure it accurately
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Anyone ever had the in tank fuel pressure regulator fail?
 

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Isnt their a fuel pump control module somewhere to vary voltage to the intank pump? I had heard of people having issue with that on some of the new truck when running stronger setups.

There are def some voltage setting in the tune:

Rectangle Operating system Screenshot Font Parallel


1, 2 and 3 lbs/min of fuel would work out to something like 14, 28, and 42 lbs/min of air +/- some amount for changes in AFR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Deatsch Werks wants me to send them the pump for testing. I may end up doing that. I have been trying to get a hold of Boostking, be he must be pretty busy. He was helping me diagnose a bit last month, but i got busy and havent gotten to the pump issue to now. Maybe he can chime in. This might be a good learning opportunity.

Deatsch is telling me the canister that the fuel pump goes to in the sending unit is a filter? I didnt think we had a filter other than then tank sock?
 
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it has been some yrs. since I did my fuel system,
( I have the same set up, except the reg. xdi35 pump vs your evo )

I am trying to dig in the ol' memory banks,
couldn't find the pics on my phone,
but , IIrc when I built my in tank pump housing, I removed the canister you are refering too.
Think it's a charcoal filter/canister.
I remember when I put the dw400 in the canister was breaking down and I had charcoal bits in the tank/ basket.

( in pic below)

I believe it was recommended to remove that,
also that spot is where I stuck my fpr.

I was trying to dig up some info for ya, but full race has a really detailed write up on this building a stout basket and higher flowing pump.

not sure if any of this will be helpful.

let me Know If I can help ya with something tho.
 

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the oem intank pump assembly has a fuel filter/regulator integrated. the sock is a prefilter only! the actual fuel filter is inside the plastic canister.

if it helps, lmk and i can try and grab some photos when im in the shop this weekend, pretty sure i have a couple fuel pump modules some with oem pump and others with the dw pump
 

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Isnt their a fuel pump control module somewhere to vary voltage to the intank pump? I had heard of people having issue with that on some of the new truck when running stronger setups.

There are def some voltage setting in the tune:

View attachment 185085

1, 2 and 3 lbs/min of fuel would work out to something like 14, 28, and 42 lbs/min of air +/- some amount for changes in AFR.
This is where I would be looking unless you've bypassed the original wiring with a hard wire kit and relay. Also, I don't know what the factory fuel pump wiring size is, but that pump draws quit a bit more amperage than the stocker so you may need to make sure it's up to the task and supplying proper voltage at all times.

I wouldn't be super worried about the small debris in the tank. It looks like the filter sock is doing it's job and blocking it. An aftermarket 10-mircron filter may be a good idea though just to be sure there isn't any junk getting into the HPFP. I don't imagine they would tolerate much...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Im guessing that i damaged something in the coal filter, and its blown out some of the coal chunks, maybe even getting stuck under the PRV and holding it open? there was some black specs in my sending unit sump that wasnt there last time. DW just got the setup today, hopefully they can test all of it and let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
DW said that my pump is underperformning by 8%. So they warrantied it with a new pump. But im not sure 8% explains the pressure drop i was seeing. Im tempted to do a aftermarket FPR and fuel filter setup. Anybody have any good setups to go with? I seen the full race design. It might be the way to go.
 

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DW said that my pump is underperformning by 8%. So they warrantied it with a new pump. But im not sure 8% explains the pressure drop i was seeing. I'm tempted to do a aftermarket FPR and fuel filter setup. Anybody have any good setups to go with? I seen the full race design. It might be the way to go.
I have a aftermarket FPR set up and honestly don't think it's needed. I have buddy's running 800whp in 5.0's with return-less setups. If the pump is good and installed correctly, it should do whatever you need it to.
 

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I have a aftermarket FPR set up and honestly don't think it's needed. I have buddy's running 800whp in 5.0's with return-less setups. If the pump is good and installed correctly, it should do whatever you need it to.
You can make good power on a returnless system, but having a return certainly makes things more consistent. I try and have K-Series Honda guys (those are returnless factory) go to a return for anything north of 400 whp just for safety sake. The main issue you can run into is the last fuel injector in the series can actually have lower pressure than the first couple due to the pressure drop across the rails from the other injectors opening. In a return system you have more equalized pressure. I can actually replicate this in my injector flow bench when running 4 2000cc injectors at the same time. Even though the pressure at the regulator is 43.5 psi, there is a distinct flow disparity between the injector at the rail inlet and the one at the end. This can be up to a 10% flow difference in my case if I run them all at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Im only around 450 tire for power. Trying to keep the truck reliable. I have orderd parts to change the fuel filter/ regulator like the Full-Race write up. DW did say that I had alot of delta P in the filter.
 
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