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Dunno about all the pre oil lube stuff.. My rig only sits for a couple of days at the most without running, (daily driver). When I change the oil, I fill the new, dry oil filter with oil. After a few minutes, it does not drip any oil while installing it on the engine. I do notice that the OP gauge does not move for a second or two on it's first start after that oil change. On cold starts, even after sitting a couple of days, the OP gauge moves as soon as it fires.. Don't know what that few seconds does, but so far so good just firing it up.. At least the filter was not dry when first fired! That's my only comfort at this point I guess..

On those long grade pulls and then stopping... I have those situations going east over the pass on I-90 on a couple of rest stops. What I do is coast into the parking area and then when I stop, let the engine idle for a couple of minutes... I have a phone app that monitors the ODBII sensors and I monitor the CAT temps and once they get into the 900* range, that's when I'll shut it down.

Dunno if that makes any difference at all either, but I also wait for the fans to shut off and see the engine and trans temp lower during that time, so can't hurt, right?

Good luck!

I also practice all (but the OBDII) mitigation steps you documented. I have a Torque OBDII and app so will use it to monitor temp's as well. Good idea. Thanks.

My primary purpose of the Pre Luber is to address the dry starts after sitting up to 8 months at a time. The post lube benefit is a secondar benefit. I plan on using a simple twist to turn 3 minute timer to continue the post lubrication/cooling for turbo cool down. Would allow me to stop at the rest stop, run the engine until the fans turn off, and then twist on up to 3 minutes of turbo cool down while I step inside for business. Good post. Thank you! Geronimo John.
 

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UPDATE:

Sorry for my slow progress on the Pre-Lube system for my 2019 F-150. I live in Hawaii and use the truck in Texas twice a year. So the work has to be done where and when I have access. After working on this for each of my trips, I have run into several "challenges". I have worked through the issues and now have the parts needed to finish it when I return to Texas later this summer. I expect to get it done then and will post back with pictures and a parts list.

Geronimo John
 

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My trucks been sitting for about 7 days the dealership just redid all my timing chain parts components and everything to the newest tsb. They told me if I let it set more than 2 days I need to get oil to the engine before i start it or it could cause premature timing chain wear or mesh it up again. Anyone ever hear about that? If so is it true and how do you do it?

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I just did my timing chains phasers and tensioners and this is actually in the tsb procedure, you can do the pedal to the floor and crank it or you can pull fuse 27 in the power box under hood. That shuts off your fuel supply and will allow oil pressure to build up.
 

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@Jstahl11: Just curious: - after pulling fuse 27:
  • How long did you need to crank until the dash oil pressure gauge to reach full oil pressure?
  • I believe from the video that the starter will cut out after some time period. Did you experience this? If so, how many cranking periods did it take to reach full oil pressure?
 

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Geronimo, you can watch my video for the oil pressure coming up during a cold start crank.

And mine is pushbutton, so each cranking cycle is about 5 seconds.

I've found that although it takes a few seconds to get the oil pressure to come up off of 0-2lbs, once it hits 2-3 lbs it IMMEDIATELY builds. I'm guessing that indicates oil has filled the vacant passages and then it builds pressure immediately.




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This is called “clear flood” mode any fuel injected car if you hold the gas pedal all the way down when starting keeps the injectors from “firing” this is why it’s call clear flood mode.
 

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This is called “clear flood” mode any fuel injected car if you hold the gas pedal all the way down when starting keeps the injectors from “firing” this is why it’s call clear flood mode.
Exactly. In older carburated.vehicles you would hold the pedal to the floor and crank it. With the throttle blade wide open it quicky cleared the excesss fuel.

When fuel injection became common they simply adapted this practice by including the injector cutoff to the "flood clearing" mode.

The reason he needs to do so involves the new parts. If a vehicle sits a few days it can lose oil.pump prime. This extends the time the vehicle has to run without oil pressure. With well broken in parts with oil residue it's no big deal. With brand new dry parts you really don't want initial break-in to occur without oil.

This is also why we spin the oil pump with a drill to prelube a newly assembled engine before we test fire it. Both to prelube all the parts and prime the pump.
 

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Exactly. In older carburated.vehicles you would hold the pedal to the floor and crank it. With the throttle blade wide open it quicky cleared the excesss fuel.

When fuel injection became common they simply adapted this practice by including the injector cutoff to the "flood clearing" mode.

The reason he needs to do so involves the new parts. If a vehicle sits a few days it can lose oil.pump prime. This extends the time the vehicle has to run without oil pressure. With well broken in parts with oil residue it's no big deal. With brand new dry parts you really don't want initial break-in to occur without oil.

This is also why we spin the oil pump with a drill to prelube a newly assembled engine before we test fire it. Both to prelube all the parts and prime the pump.
Yeah I understand I know why he is doing it. People weren’t sure about what keeps the engine from starting. I was just clarifying what the pcm was doing and that it has a name.
 

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I also practice all (but the OBDII) mitigation steps you documented. I have a Torque OBDII and app so will use it to monitor temp's as well. Good idea. Thanks.

My primary purpose of the Pre Luber is to address the dry starts after sitting up to 8 months at a time. The post lube benefit is a secondar benefit. I plan on using a simple twist to turn 3 minute timer to continue the post lubrication/cooling for turbo cool down. Would allow me to stop at the rest stop, run the engine until the fans turn off, and then twist on up to 3 minutes of turbo cool down while I step inside for business. Good post. Thank you! Geronimo John.
Hey Ryan.... Yoohoo.... (@RMB_Ryan)

I know you are swamped brother, but the next time you actually sit down, relax, and have a few minutes to view what @Geronimo John is considering above, I'd LOVE to hear your input on the concept.

I realize that what he's aiming to do might be considered too much trouble, effort, and co$t for 99% of the fellas around here. But what I'm thinking is possibly leveraging all the R&D that you've already painstakingly accomplished, with regards to:

Gen2 oil filter relocation
Oil temperature (cooling) enhancement
Oil change enhancement (cleaner/easier)

And then add Geronimo John's potential idea of pre-oiling and post-oiling a cold start or hard-run motor?

IGNORE the idea as a feasibility in co$t product. Rather look at it as ONLY an exercise in actually achieving the intended result! Or, just consider both Geronimo John and Snake as two old coots that have more time/money to put towards this, than good sense. Lol

(please don't be offended Geronimo that I pointed out our age. I don't get to be the "younger" around here very often. I have the upmost respect for my elders. Especially the much smarter ones than myself)



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@snakebitten
Pedal to the floor does not typically help cold start clack on gen2’s, and building oil pressure.

Let me say it will help address the excessive oil drainback issues inherently problematic on ford’s tensioners, phasers, and on things that need to hold oil for start up but have zero oring sealing the oil in on the backside of said part to flat surface its mounted to on block or head. We have addressed this and kits include oring sealed parts and are coming)


Cold start Gen2 clack is largely or 90% due to shut down. When your ready and go to key off your phasers don’t lock and the back plate of phaser has a “hole” so to speak. The locking pin which is metal, has a check valve or two and a spring)so on shut down the spring forces the check valves spring to push the lock into the hole.

When this doesn’t happen because the hole has a nice ramp now (like that on the beach, you wade in the water as it is dealer) the locking pin is designed for 5 million key cycles or whatever however the old back plates weren’t hence the beach and ocean analogy.

So oil pressure will help dry start it shuts injectors off, no fuel for spark.

It also can force pin in the phasers back plate hole sometimes


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Also if anyone wants a pre lube kit let me know I can have 10 by weeks end, this is easy , however we only use quality parts and it would be a properly developed setup. Probably timer relayed so you don’t have to think about it maybe overrode switch if you start 10 times in a row it be stupid


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Also if anyone wants a pre lube kit let me know I can have 10 by weeks end, this is easy , however we only use quality parts and it would be a properly developed setup. Probably timer relayed so you don’t have to think about it maybe overrode switch if you start 10 times in a row it be stupid


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I gotta admit that I was unaware of a "pre lube kit"

Thanks for taking the time.



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I learned of them 35 years ago with pony motors and pre-lube pumps in very large (900 to 10.000 HP) I.C. natural gas fired pipeline compressors and pumps. Personally since 1982, I installed half a dozen of them in marine inboard ski boat engines. In normal service the, they like my truck, often sit for a long time between uses. That's hard on the engines and I often see them needing top end overhaul after only about 2500 hours. With the pre/post lubers they would go double (or more) and still be running like new.

As I did my research in 2018 before buying my 2019 F-150, I took not of the 3.5 E.B. dual turbo's (Expensive) and heard about the phaser issues (On this forum) especially for the Gen 1 engines. The idea was an obvious one.
 
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