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Discussion Starter #1
I would love some advice on how to reduce the periodic increase in engine temps when I'm towing with my 2015 ecoboost. First, let me know if what I'm experiencing is normal or not. Then let me know what sort of things I can do to reduce the buildup of heat.

I pull a 32 foot long travel trailer that weighs roughly 8000# once we load it up for a trip. Recently I just had to fix a leaking drivers side exhaust manifold due to a broken manifold bolt so I'm concerned that the increase in temperature I see periodically when towing might be the culprit.

When towing on level terrain under 60 mph I don't get an indication of increasing water temps. If the ambient temp is above 70 degrees and I start going up an incline, I start seeing the temperature appear above the temp gauge when it climbs above 225 degrees. It has gone as high as 245 degrees when ambient temps are in the 90's while climbing mild to moderate hill. Once the I level out or start to descend the hill the temp returns to normal and the actual temp above the gauge disappears.

I also see temps above 225 degrees when towing on flat and level road at 70 mph with high ambient temps around 90 degrees. I don't tow my trailer over 70 mph on the interstates.

If ambient temps are below 50 or 60, I don't see an increase in water temp when pulling a hill.

Are the increases in temp from my scenarios above normal or should I investigate the issue. If I need to investigate further, where should I look for a problem? CAC, water pump, radiator, etc? What upgrades or modifications could be done to prevent the engine temps from increasing when towing?

Thanks
 

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This seems pretty common in warmer climates. Mine does it as well and I know several others here have said it too.

There is a thread here about a lower temp thermostat that people have said help normal driving temps. I have one but not installed yet but hope it helps.
 

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This is just a feature of the truck. At 8000#, you're probably pretty close to the max for your truck. (I know you're probably still under the "advertised" max, but don't believe those numbers, it's overstated.) I have tried several things to combat overheating. I tow about 7000# and the best thing that has worked for me is the 1) The larger transmission cooler and 2) Slowing down and relying on the gearing to get you over the hill. This is made possible because the transmission will be cooler. It's not uncommon for me to be in 3rd or 4th pulling a grade at 3000-3500 RPMs. When you downshift and slow down, this lowers the boost on the truck. It's the turbos screaming at high speed which are giving you the rush of heat on your motor. In my experience, I don't think there's much you can do to quench the amount of heat completely. It will always be there, so you need to minimize the boost in those situations. See my sig for upgrade I have tried regarding this.
 

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This is pretty normal for the 2011-2014 trucks and appears that some of the 2015+ trucks have been popping up lately.

The Ecoboost is like Icarus. Icarus flies too close to the sun, his wax wings melt, and he falls back to earth.

The ecoboost tows a trailer and makes to much power, its wax cooling system melts, and it goes into power reduction mode
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It will always be there, so you need to minimize the boost in those situations. See my sig for upgrade I have tried regarding this.
You've done many of the things that I was curious about. I see you upgraded your radiator but what about upgrading the charge are cooler/intercooler? Would that have a larger impact on heat reduction?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tow about 7000# and the best thing that has worked for me is the 1) The larger transmission cooler and 2) Slowing down and relying on the gearing to get you over the hill. This is made possible because the transmission will be cooler.
DNA Dan...I watch my trans temp when towing and I've never experienced a time when the trans temp appeared to be exceeding the normal operating range. I wonder if they increased the size of the trans cooler in 2015 for the max tow package.
 

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You've done many of the things that I was curious about. I see you upgraded your radiator but what about upgrading the charge are cooler/intercooler? Would that have a larger impact on heat reduction?
It didnt for me. It certainly helped IAT's but it did almost nothing for engine coolant temps. Nor did my trans cooler upgrade.

My trans temps also dont get very high. 208-210 is the highest I have seen.
 

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The only Thing I have seen on a totally stock truck to lower the temps is gearing down and going a bit slower on the grades. I used to go in 4th up the grades going 60 mph with my old #5000 TT. Coolant would get to *210-15 with outside temps in the *80's.

Got a #7000 TT and took the same grades as before and saw my temps go up to *225-30 trying to do it in 4th and 60 mph.

Shifted to 3rd and slowed to 50-55 mph and while still pulling the grade the temp actual when down to around *221. What I noticed is that the amount of boost being generated is lower then when trying to do it in 4th. If I keep the boost to under 6-7 psi the temps are manageable. Once over that, like 10 or more, that's when the temp rises, even on the flats. I have 3.73 gears and will tow the flats in 5th keeping it at around 60-65 mph.

Good luck!

Mitch
 

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DNA Dan...I watch my trans temp when towing and I've never experienced a time when the trans temp appeared to be exceeding the normal operating range. I wonder if they increased the size of the trans cooler in 2015 for the max tow package.
My truck is a max tow with the front cooler. I think the cooler is the same size. The upgraded cooler I am referring to is equipped on trucks going to the middle east, thus many call it the "Saudi" version. I don't think Ford anticipated global warming in 2011-2014!

Next time you tow, downshift and slow down. Watch the trans temp and see what it does. For me it was a two edged sword, I could keep it in boost and drive ECT crazy hot, or I could downshift and my trans would steadily climb towards the redline. So I really had no solution until I upgraded the transcooler. This was in the middle of summer 90 degree+ weather towing ~7K for hours then hitting a long grade. The upgrade is super cheap (about $88 last I checked) and even if you don't think you'll benefit, it's worth it for the health of your transmission. It's a super easy swap. After this cooler upgrade, when I drop down gears on grades, ECT now drops like it should with the increase in water pump circulation. (Some of my other upgrades may come into play here as well.) Then the trans never breaks ~210 or so. Prior to this, it would run at 224 a lot then spike up towards 240. Also it's worth noting that the trans fluid runs through the radiator end tank. I think by keeping it cooler, this also helps ECT a little.

If you're looking for an upgrade to allow you to boost over grades at 70 MPH in 5th or 6th, you definitely won't find one. You're pulling a brick!
 

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The other 2 big culprits which have been discussed many times on here is:
1) Fan strategy. Many feel the fans are completely inadequate and the stock tune is configured to turn the high speed on too late. Others have wired a switch to ground the fan relay making a "high speed fan override" so they can flip on the fans when they want.
2) Aftermarket engine oil cooler/lower radiator hose bypass delete. Not sure if your 2015 is configured this way, but the lower radiator hose diverts like 50% of it's flow towards the oil cooler, which by itself is completely inadequate the way it's designed. Some have swapped this hose out for a regular non-max tow version of the hose which does not have this diverter, then they re-route the oil lines to a REAL external oil cooler, eliminating the stock cooler. This is a pretty expensive upgrade (~$600 USD to do it right) and there's not a lot of information on the size of cooler or how much flow is required for the motor. I have been on the fence about this one for lack of more info and knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you're looking for an upgrade to allow you to boost over grades at 70 MPH in 5th or 6th, you definitely won't find one. You're pulling a brick!
I didn't figure this was possible but I thought I'd check with the experts here to ensure I wasn't missing something obvious and that I wasn't the only one with this issue. Thanks.
 

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WHy would you rewire the fan? You can change it in the tune.

I can't speak from towing heavy bc I don't but unloaded the only time my high fan runs is summer with A/C on to cool the condenser. Otherwise it will not turn on. This is with a tune to turn on at lower temps too.
 

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I didn't think the OP had a tune. It's definitely easier through a tune, but for us poor folk, 8 feet of 3 conductor trailer wire and a switch works just fine. Also "on demand" is a little better control than "let the computer decide".
 

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WHy would you rewire the fan? You can change it in the tune.

I can't speak from towing heavy bc I don't but unloaded the only time my high fan runs is summer with A/C on to cool the condenser. Otherwise it will not turn on. This is with a tune to turn on at lower temps too.
Do you know what your stock Vs tune fan setpoints are?

I'll be getting a 5* tow tune for next season and want them to knock the high speed setpoint down a few degrees.
 

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Do you know what your stock Vs tune fan setpoints are?

I'll be getting a 5* tow tune for next season and want them to knock the high speed setpoint down a few degrees.
Whatever you tell the tuner you want.
 

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WHy would you rewire the fan? You can change it in the tune.

I can't speak from towing heavy bc I don't but unloaded the only time my high fan runs is summer with A/C on to cool the condenser. Otherwise it will not turn on. This is with a tune to turn on at lower temps too.
Because you could premptively turn it on before a hill and try to precool and stay ahead of it.

Id rather the fan doesnt just run on high the entire trip if not needed.
 

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Mass.....being in AZ; especially in August (108°/118°-yikes)!, having the fans manually on high all the time makes the AC blow super cool! Truck temps run consistant and of course when tackling 6% grades keeps things in check. Also the fun feature of this configuration is when I turn the truck off....I let the fans run about a minute to cool the engine bay down. 👍
 

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This is just a feature of the truck. At 8000#, you're probably pretty close to the max for your truck. (I know you're probably still under the "advertised" max, but don't believe those numbers, it's overstated.) I have tried several things to combat overheating. I tow about 7000# and the best thing that has worked for me is the 1) The larger transmission cooler and 2) Slowing down and relying on the gearing to get you over the hill. This is made possible because the transmission will be cooler. It's not uncommon for me to be in 3rd or 4th pulling a grade at 3000-3500 RPMs. When you downshift and slow down, this lowers the boost on the truck. It's the turbos screaming at high speed which are giving you the rush of heat on your motor. In my experience, I don't think there's much you can do to quench the amount of heat completely. It will always be there, so you need to minimize the boost in those situations. See my sig for upgrade I have tried regarding this.
I experience the same thing, one thing to be cautious of on a transmission with over 50k miles on it. You will also want to start paying closer attention to the tranny temp when pulling longer steeper grades in those lower gears, in the higher gears the tranny stays cooler.
 

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OP

My 15 I had, I had a few mods that for sure helped control the temps.......

One was the style grille. (increased air flow) and upgrading the trans cooler and relocating

PM me I can probably help you some....

Knowing the truck and how to drive it under those conditions towing, and watching the temps closely and backing off on the throttle can help as well....
 
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