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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone tell me how hard these are to do? Are their videos showing technique?

Local shop wants $100 to do a coolant flush and over $200 to do a rear diff fluid change. I'm able to do on my own, just never done either. My truck has 81k miles on it, so I believe it's due. Thanks for your responses!

Note: I completed the diff fluid change.. very easy, but messy!
 

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Not sure on coolant cost but it sounds high. On diff you need to take off cover, let drain then clean housing and cover then use sealant to seal back up and then add 2 1/2 quarts diff oil. Goggle it, good luck:):)

Edit: forgot to add about additive for non E-Locker diff's just ad to limited slip. And covers don't come with gaskets from factory even if it did it would have been distroyed, so you'll need to get one, about $12. Sorry if I got you confused
 

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I have not looked into mine because it's not due, but most rear ends use a special fluid and many use an additive.
If the rear end doesn't have a drain plug I'd recommend replacing the gasket instead of just resealing it with the old one. Cheap money.
Many times you can have your coolant checked for free at local auto parts stores. I'd do that before replacing.
 

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Your coolant is probably okay unless you've had leaks, contamination, or other issues. $100 to flush the coolant seems like a bargain compared to the $200 rear diff fluid change. I might pay that price considering the labor involved, cost of coolant, and hassle of disposing of the old stuff properly.

Rear diff is super easy, pretty standard for all trucks. Just look up a video on youtube of the procedure for any American pickup truck and it will be just about the same. When I did mine it took at least 2.5 quarts. If you have a limited slip, be sure that the oil you're using has a friction modifier in it, might be best to stick with the Ford stuff for that.
 

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I have not looked into mine because it's not due, but most rear ends use a special fluid and many use an additive.
Just standard synthetic gear oil will work fine if you have an open diff or a locker.

Only if you have a limited slip (clutch packs) do you need something with the friction modifier in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can see where they are getting the $200. I can get parts for around $100 for the lube and sealant (to seal cover back on when closing). Wow, expensive stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not at all, very good response, thank you.

Not sure on coolant cost but it sounds high. On diff you need to take off cover, let drain then clean housing and cover then use sealant to seal back up and then add 2 1/2 quarts diff oil. Goggle it, good luck:):)

Edit: forgot to add about additive for non E-Locker diff's just ad to limited slip. And covers don't come with gaskets from factory even if it did it would have been distroyed, so you'll need to get one, about $12. Sorry if I got you confused
 

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So if you have a elocker you don't have limited slip?

All I know is that I have 3.55 with elocker. So I don't need the additive?

What diff fluid are you guys using?

Also when you say clean what does that Intel? Brake cleaner and a brush?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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So if you have a elocker you don't have limited slip?

All I know is that I have 3.55 with elocker. So I don't need the additive?

What diff fluid are you guys using?

Also when you say clean what does that Intel? Brake cleaner and a brush?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
yes about the E-Locker

View attachment 39779

to clean I used sharp putty knife, hard brush and alcohol
 

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No additive for e lock. Need synthetic lube 75-140. Amsoil severe gear and forget about it.

Tools needed - razor blade, lint free rags (will throw away), RTV sealant (if using stock cover), torque wrench if you're OCD, brake clean and fluid pump. I don't know stock torque specs of nuts off top of my head, it is not much. Stock cover takes almost 3 quarts, fill through fill hole on drive side until it starts to weep out on level surface.

Coolant should be like any other, drain peacock on passenger lower corner of radiator. Basic flush, just open that, close it, fill through expansion tank. Run truck with heat on high to burb system. The orange coolant from Ford is pretty pricey.

I would for sure do your transfer case too, again using pump. It take 5 mins. I would also do your transmission. I would do the transmission and t case before the other two with 80k miles.
 

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Can you link to the correct fluid pump needed?

So you can use pump with out taking the cover off or no pump taking cover off?

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Just get a hand operated suction pump from any autoparts store, like 10 bucks. Will pump half a quart at a time.

Are you talking about the diff? You don't need to take the cover off if you use a pump, but you may not be able to pump it all out either. Pulling the cover is only sure way to get everything.

Any quality full syn 75w-140 gear oil will work with e locker or open diff. I used the royal purple stuff, it had friction modifier in it already, but not sure if it's 100% compatible with the clutch pack in Ford's limited slip, I didn't care because I have an open diff.

No additives needed unless you have a limited slip. If you have a locker, you don't have limited slip.

Transfer case has a drain plug, no need to pull any covers or use a pump. Fill transfer case only with Motorcraft xl-12, unless you have all time 4wd, then you need some special ATF or something.
 

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Fill transfer case only with Motorcraft xl-12.
I did a bunch of research on this trying to find the difference of that compared to Mercon V and all I got was it should be closer to the original Mercon, the xl-12 stuff. The mercon V replaced Mercon, but apparently something in the V(additive?) could cause transfer case to fail....which I think is BS. The xl-12 stuff didn't get put into dealers until 2013/14 or so, think of how many trucks have mercon v in them! Ford didn't even release a TSB, they now just have dealers use the xl-12.

I replaced my t case fluid at 5k miles because I am nuts to flush out any metal debris from break in (the few times i used 4x4) and replaced with Amsoil ATF....which meets Mercon, Mercon V and xl-12 requirements. Amsoil insists it is fine, but if it meets Mercon V...it would have the same additives that are apparently causing transfer case to fail from the Ford Mercon V. IDK, I'll keep using it, next time(years and years) ill put the xl-12 when I change again. If it fails, Amsoil can buy me a new one.


OP, the pump is cheap as explained, make sure you look at what size cap it fits is the only important thing. It will do gear oil fine bc it is thick. Transmission fluid maybe a different story. it is so thin it may not pump. The cheap hand pumps will have the seal fail too, which causing them not to work. There is enough room on the transfer case if you get a small ass funnel with a little tube, you can fit a quart size bottle up and slowly poor it into the funnel.
 

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I did a bunch of research on this trying to find the difference of that compared to Mercon V and all I got was it should be closer to the original Mercon, the xl-12 stuff. The mercon V replaced Mercon, but apparently something in the V(additive?) could cause transfer case to fail....which I think is BS. The xl-12 stuff didn't get put into dealers until 2013/14 or so, think of how many trucks have mercon v in them! Ford didn't even release a TSB, they now just have dealers use the xl-12.

I replaced my t case fluid at 5k miles because I am nuts to flush out any metal debris from break in (the few times i used 4x4) and replaced with Amsoil ATF....which meets Mercon, Mercon V and xl-12 requirements. Amsoil insists it is fine, but if it meets Mercon V...it would have the same additives that are apparently causing transfer case to fail from the Ford Mercon V. IDK, I'll keep using it, next time(years and years) ill put the xl-12 when I change again. If it fails, Amsoil can buy me a new one.


OP, the pump is cheap as explained, make sure you look at what size cap it fits is the only important thing. It will do gear oil fine bc it is thick. Transmission fluid maybe a different story. it is so thin it may not pump. The cheap hand pumps will have the seal fail too, which causing them not to work. There is enough room on the transfer case if you get a small ass funnel with a little tube, you can fit a quart size bottle up and slowly poor it into the funnel.
Seen this?

 

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That way the majority brings it in for fluid change... and they can charge for the sealant and labor and fluids. Lol

I'm thinking about going to a aftermarket cover with plug and view spot but I know it's really not necessary.. or at least in my case it isnt

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Seen this?
Ya, he still does not explain why. As i said xl-12 (speculated old mercon formula) did not come out until 14 and there was no tsb. A ton of f series trucks in that time frame say Mercon V right in the owners manual for the t case.
 
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