[aboostedf150]

I’m nit asking this from a simple who’s got the most or setting records which generally tends to be the The reason as we’ve already got plenty of information on that ..
What I’m interested in and I think now is a good time to ask this as the gen1 has been around a while so there should be a lot more data on long term modded gen1 stock block 3.5’s...seeing all the gen2 running 700rwhp ,waiting to see the longevity on that for sure,lol..
As I’m still on the fence about running the stage5 CRP’s and the mainfolds with the addition fuel requirements first on my stock motor ...I’m not looking to blow it up or set any speed records..trying to decide whether or not to just bite the bullet and go with a Forged motor first..
I just enjoy hauling the mail to 120-150mph safely...(not in traffic ) I don’t do hard launches, it’s always off idle I can’t use the brake and gas together yet with my hand controls..
I know ive said it before that I’ve heard 460rwhp is the limit to be safe..RMB said that and blew a few at 475rwhp but that was also I’m guessing in the earlier days before the gen2 ...
We have better tuning and fuel today than in 2011-2015..
So let me know your RWHP the mods and how many miles you have put on it and if you ran it hard as many do..I’m just trying to get a better idea of the reliability lately and if it blew up what happened? How long it lasted & if you have the cause and the tune pls.:also if you have taken any precautions that you think have help prolong the reliability after throwing turbos on the stock motor which has allowed to to keep on running...I know there’s some guys running over 500rwhp on stock motors just haven’t heard any updates..
Thks

 

[Poriggity]

Following because I'm curious...

 

[snakebitten]

I enjoy your posts because it's one long linear reveal of what you are pondering. You even share the reality of the back&forth that most of us keep to ourselves, or attempt to.

I dig the honesty, is what I'm saying.

Just order you an RMB barebones shortblock or longblock and have it sitting while you go ahead and throw the turbos and other bolt-on's that you think would get you where you want. Or put another way, be as optimistic as you can be with your oem motor, but have the comfort of knowing that even with the better fueling/tuning and smooth driving style you describe, you still have backup for if/when one of those piston skirts says it has had enough.

Hey, you might get years more out that oem motor at 500 or 550 RWHP. But you might pop it while dialing it in. You JUST DON'T KNOW. Lol

Note: By barebones I think you know what I mean. Strong bottom and solid valve train. But far short of the CrAzY stuff that can be included for the BIG numbers guys.

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[mass-hole]

Probably like 300. On a good day, in the winter.

 

[mass-hole]

I enjoy your posts because it's one long linear reveal of what you are pondering. You even share the reality of the back&forth that most of us keep to ourselves, or attempt to.

I dig the honesty, is what I'm saying.

Just order you an RMB barebones shortblock or longblock and have it sitting while you go ahead and throw the turbos and other bolt-on's that you think would get you where you want. Or put another way, be as optimistic as you can be with your oem motor, but have the comfort of knowing that even with the better fueling/tuning and smooth driving style you describe, you still have backup for if/when one of those piston skirts says it has had enough.

Hey, you might get years more out that oem motor at 500 or 550 RWHP. But you might pop it while dialing it in. You JUST DON'T KNOW. Lol

Note: By barebones I think you know what I mean. Strong bottom and solid valve train. But far short of the CrAzY stuff that can be included for the BIG numbers guys.

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I agree. I wouldn't build a block and take the time to swap it out for no reason. Send it with the stock block, and if it blows up you will be another data point for the rest of us.

 

[Grim Reaper]

On a Mustang Dyno I did [email protected]/[email protected] with my simple bolt-ons and our crumby gas.

I haven't dyno'd now that I am running Ethanol mixtures to improve the quality of our poor gas. Personally, with the stock internals, I am probably close to the limit of the stock block/stock internals.

If I had to rebuild, I would consider both a OEM Long Block like @WooBoost is doing, or a "stronger" engine from @RMB_Ryan My truck still looks good, but due to two people hitting my truck (while parked in my driveway ... twice); these accidents are considered "reportable accidents" where I live and kills the resale value of the truck.

This is in spite of my truck being in very good condition overall. Without those two accidents, my truck would be worth at a lot more.😞

 

[snakebitten]

On a Mustang Dyno I did [email protected]/[email protected] with my simple bolt-ons and our crumby gas.

I haven't dyno'd now that I am running Ethanol mixtures to improve the quality of our poor gas. Personally, with the stock internals, I am probably close to the limit of the stock block/stock internals.

If I had to rebuild, I would consider both a OEM Long Block like @WooBoost is doing, or a "stronger" engine from @RMB_Ryan My truck still looks good, but due to two people hitting my truck (while parked in my driveway ... twice); these accidents are considered "reportable accidents" where I live and kills the resale value of the truck.

This is in spite of my truck being in very good condition overall. Without those two accidents, my truck would be worth at a lot more.

Did you inadvertently reverse HP/TQ?

Since your truck has experienced unfortunate loss in value that is NOT a valid representation of reality, then it is worth more to you than anyone else. I almost consider that a challenge just to KEEP it and bend the misfortune back into my favor.

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[Grim Reaper]

Did you inadvertently reverse HP/TQ?

Since your truck has experienced unfortunate loss in value that is NOT a valid representation of reality, then it is worth more to you than anyone else. I almost consider that a challenge just to KEEP it and bend the misfortune back into my favor.

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Nope, that is both the RWTQ & RWHP per the dyno. HP is fairly flat from 4500 - 5200 and then starts to drop off. That is why I have my shift points set to 5400 rpm.

That was all when I was just burning our garbage gas. Luckily it is pure gas, so adding more Ethanol is easy to calculate. E20 cures knock, E30 starts to move and E40+ the engine makes a lot of power, especially if I add a bit more spark in WOT. But, I suspect I am probably making too much TQ at that level and will ultimately break something.

I hoping to do a dyno run, if I can get some time off, and see how E20 and possibly E30 runs.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

Dang. I thought you had said 370ish HP and 550ish TQ too.

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[Grim Reaper]

Dang. I thought you had said 370ish HP and 550ish TQ too.

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I was typing from my phone and I have one fat thumb. I HATE typing from a phone due to the puny size.

Most of the time, I just wait until I can get to a computer.

Anyway, my signature has the correct RWTQ and RQHP, along with the RPM. But I am definitely making more now than the dyno run indicated.

 

[Blown F-150]

Grimm's Sig for Tapatalk users
2013 F-150 4x4 Supercab 145"WB Ecoboost XLT, Group 302A, XTR Trailer Package, E-Lock 3.55s ...
Bolt-ons Installed: Banks CAI, Wagner CAC, Full Race Catted Downpipes, Custom 3" exhaust w/3" Flowmaster dBX Muffler & XDI-35
Tuned by Torrie McPhail at Unleashed Tuning 91+ Octane 567 RWTQ @ 2750 / 372 RWHP @ 4900 - (Mustang Dyno) E30 coming ...
Mods (Waiting): Mishimoto Hardpipes, CRP Ceramic Coated Exhaust Manifolds, Full Race GT Turbos & SPD Ported Adapters

 

[Mikey_Ltd]

Ive ran my truck harder then most. Properly maintained and good fuel and oil. Cruise nights regularly throughout the week, track, mexico and lots of fun. Lots of back to back passes with no cool downs, banging limiter. My trucks motor looked like new inside at 133,000km and ran strong
RN north of 500whp for 8 months and tan it hard. On oem turbos i made 434whp and drove it hard as well. Tuned the truck at 56,000, the truck now sits at 133,000

Performance Mods
-509whp/672whtrq on 93 octane, still had more left in it.
-Gen2 raptor catless 3” true dual downpipes
-Borg warner efr factory location turbo upgrades (gt’s)
-AMS turbo adapters
-Ported oem manifols
-sp-542 spark plugs 0.026gap

Reliability/Consistency/Fueling
-full race front mount intercooler
-full race hot side pipe
-full race boost pipe
-full race throttle body spacer
-MSD coils
-JD power solutions In tank fuel system with a walbro 535 pump, new updated delphi basket, adjusted pressure relief with a fore innovations check valve
-3 bar map sensor (ford)
-Snow performance progressive stage 2.5 meth injection (70/30 mix) with 2.5 gallon tank, on its own dedicated and fused circuit, spraying in the full race boost tube about halfway between the tb and intercooler, wanted more cooling
-exedy stage 2 clutch kit with hardened steels and snaps
-rat stat 170 degree thermostat
-tial/full race 50mm blow off valve
-Afe stage 2 intake because i like induction noise
-Rx big catch can with the clean side separator
-Vas trac bars
-17” fuel nitro rims with Mickey thompson et street
-powerstop z36 drilled and slotted brakes
-amsoil 0w40 signature

Exhaust Setup
-first gen1 ecoboost in the world to use gen2 raptor true dual 3” catless downpipes
-rear exit duals with bumper notch outs
-SPD gen2 raptor catless 3” true dual downpipes
-magnaflow 3” x-pipe
-2 vibrant 3”in/3”out ultra quiet resonators
-2 4” double walled stainless tips
-3” stainless piping with mandrel bends front to back with no step downs. True 3” system front to back


Since then i added another companies tune and xdi35 and did e30 tune not even fully finished the tune thanks to the cold snap by looking at the log compared to my 93 tune it’s sitting at 540-560 rwhp. You just have to make sure your tuner can keep boost under control. Last thing you want making this kinda power is boost spikes especially in the higher gears or you can que up Adele for when the internal are visible from the outside. That’s all she wrote. If boost had of been controlled better I beleive it would of held 600 on e50


Ive seen some data on the crp stage 5’s. They flow the same lb per minute at 17 psi as a gen2 turbo at 21psi its pretty impressive. At 21 psi they will 68lb per minute compared to the oem gen2 turbo at 58-60lb per min


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[WooBoost]

too much apparently

 

[sleipnir]

Pfftt biggest HP/TQ? I'd be happy with stock number 🥺

 

[Tim_M]

Ive ran my truck harder then most. Properly maintained and good fuel and oil. Cruise nights regularly throughout the week, track, mexico and lots of fun. Lots of back to back passes with no cool downs, banging limiter. My trucks motor looked like new inside at 133,000km and ran strong
RN north of 500whp for 8 months and tan it hard. On oem turbos i made 434whp and drove it hard as well. Tuned the truck at 56,000, the truck now sits at 133,000

Performance Mods
-509whp/672whtrq on 93 octane, still had more left in it.
-Gen2 raptor catless 3” true dual downpipes
-Borg warner efr factory location turbo upgrades (gt’s)
-AMS turbo adapters
-Ported oem manifols
-sp-542 spark plugs 0.026gap

Reliability/Consistency/Fueling
-full race front mount intercooler
-full race hot side pipe
-full race boost pipe
-full race throttle body spacer
-MSD coils
-JD power solutions In tank fuel system with a walbro 535 pump, new updated delphi basket, adjusted pressure relief with a fore innovations check valve
-3 bar map sensor (ford)
-Snow performance progressive stage 2.5 meth injection (70/30 mix) with 2.5 gallon tank, on its own dedicated and fused circuit, spraying in the full race boost tube about halfway between the tb and intercooler, wanted more cooling
-exedy stage 2 clutch kit with hardened steels and snaps
-rat stat 170 degree thermostat
-tial/full race 50mm blow off valve
-Afe stage 2 intake because i like induction noise
-Rx big catch can with the clean side separator
-Vas trac bars
-17” fuel nitro rims with Mickey thompson et street
-powerstop z36 drilled and slotted brakes
-amsoil 0w40 signature

Exhaust Setup
-first gen1 ecoboost in the world to use gen2 raptor true dual 3” catless downpipes
-rear exit duals with bumper notch outs
-SPD gen2 raptor catless 3” true dual downpipes
-magnaflow 3” x-pipe
-2 vibrant 3”in/3”out ultra quiet resonators
-2 4” double walled stainless tips
-3” stainless piping with mandrel bends front to back with no step downs. True 3” system front to back


Since then i added another companies tune and xdi35 and did e30 tune not even fully finished the tune thanks to the cold snap by looking at the log compared to my 93 tune it’s sitting at 540-560 rwhp. You just have to make sure your tuner can keep boost under control. Last thing you want making this kinda power is boost spikes especially in the higher gears or you can que up Adele for when the internal are visible from the outside. That’s all she wrote. If boost had of been controlled better I beleive it would of held 600 on e50


Ive seen some data on the crp stage 5’s. They flow the same lb per minute at 17 psi as a gen2 turbo at 21psi its pretty impressive. At 21 psi they will 68lb per minute compared to the oem gen2 turbo at 58-60lb per min


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What year truck are you running? By the sounds of it I’d guess a 15-16? Just going by mileage anyway...


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[sleipnir]

What year truck are you running? By the sounds of it I’d guess a 15-16? Just going by mileage anyway...


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Nah Mikey's is a 12th gen I believe

 

[Burns363R]

So hows that work out for hp at the crank based on lb/min. so at 68lb min your making 680ish hp crank?

I have seen spikes of 52lb/min on my GT's, but it hovers around 44-45lb/min on long pulls. So i should only be at 450hp crank, and 400 to the tires roughly right?

 

[Mikey_Ltd]

What year truck are you running? By the sounds of it I’d guess a 15-16? Just going by mileage anyway...


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Its a 2014 and im in km so 133,000km


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[sleipnir]

So hows that work out for hp at the crank based on lb/min. so at 68lb min your making 680ish hp crank?

I have seen spikes of 52lb/min on my GT's, but it hovers around 44-45lb/min on long pulls. So i should only be at 450hp crank, and 400 to the tires roughly right?

It's a rough estimate not a perfect science but 1#/min of air equals 10 crank hp. Best bet is to Dyno if you really want

 

[Mikey_Ltd]

So hows that work out for hp at the crank based on lb/min. so at 68lb min your making 680ish hp crank?

I have seen spikes of 52lb/min on my GT's, but it hovers around 44-45lb/min on long pulls. So i should only be at 450hp crank, and 400 to the tires roughly right?

Each lb per minute is 10 crank hp when your within the turbos efficiency range. Then timing adds more power.

Heres a good comparison for efficiency. On my oem turbos i made 434whp @51-52 lb per minute and 21 psi. On my gt turbos i made 509whp on 53lbs per minute and 21psi. The main reason for my
Water meth kit was to combat the heat from
Pushing the oem turbos
Both were around 12-13 degrees of timing


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